The Truth About Flat Tappet Camshafts

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Wanted to make this video to clear up any confusion on the use of a flat tappet Camshaft. Of course if you have the money I would recommend going to a roller cam as it is a far superior cam technology and will increase horsepower with the proper cam grind. However there is nothing wrong with running a flat tappet cam and you can make some serious horsepower in doing so.

-------- Link to Big Block Bumpstick Blowout

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Been running both Roller and Flat Tappet cams for years. Nothing wrong with a flat tappet cam. They are still a solid choice especially if you are on a budget.

rickybobby
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I have used flat tappet cams in all my race cars and my street cars and have never had a problem.

msantifort
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Good video, I totally agree, a lot of guys dont follow procedure, then cry and blame manufacturer for flat lobes, just one other point, priming the motor with 1/2 drill on the oil pump right before fire up is another good insurance policy, thanks for posting.

kentdixon
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Great info bro...I wiped my cam in my 383 and didn't know what type it was until pulled...once pulled it was found to be flat tappet...EVERYONE told me to go roller but I'm not...I'm putting the same cam back in...it was found that whoever previously assembled the engine had all specs off (timing, valve lash, etc)...thanks for putting this out there!

SSBOI
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I've NEVER had a problem with flat tappet cams, solid or hydraulic lifters.
I personally prefer solids, there's some extra power and rpm to be had here - and when the valve is closed there is extra oil between the lifter and cam because of the lash. I don't mind checking/adjusting lash once a year, it's a good time to inspect the valve train.
Rollers are nice, but the extra money can be spent other places that add up to even more power.

Motor-City-Mike
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NASCAR cars use flat tappet mechanical camshafts, albeit, very exotic gear. Over the last forty years that's all I have ever used, and with great success. In my 454/460 CID (over-bored .030") Stingray Corvette, I am currently using a flat tappet mechanical camshaft. A custom ground Iskenderian 272/278. If you have any worries about losing a lobe, order one of the cams from Comp Cams with the plasma nitriding. I used one a while back and I can testify that a nitrided camshaft will never wear out. And by the way, I love the way a mechanical cam sounds like when lashed down to .020". Mechanical music. Cheers!

And before I forget, make sure that you use the correct type of engine oil for that flat tappet. Joe Gibbs driven race oil for break-in, and the HR oil from there on.

vikingmike
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I mostly use NOS cams and lifters if I cant find them, Elgin cam and lifter Prostock Brand work fine.

Haffschlappe
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Got one in my 76 350 Chevy. Been running it 25 Year's and still go strong. Going to put one in my 79 400 Chevy

johnkimball
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Throw a bottle of GM EOS / engine oil supplement with every oil change, full of zinc . Never had a cam failure in dozens of engines I've built over the last 50 years

davidparkes
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Growing up I never heard of breaking in a cam. We always put motors together, put oil and water in them, sometimes they didn't start right off. Never had a cam go flat. Maybe we just got lucky. Maybe oil has changed. Either way since I've grown up in the last 40 years I do break in cams and lifters. Recently discovered Castrol GTX Classic with high zinc. Building a 302 for my Bronco, will try that for break in oil, it works fine for general use.

Dannysoutherner
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Add ZDDP with every oil change not just the first, ask anyone at Summit or Jeggs they will tell you that and your hyd. of soild lifter cam will last . I taught auto mec. for 40 years and has it CHANGED !

dynodon
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Have had great success at breaking in huge lift cams with old springs ...run a break in cycle with old springs then change to new double springs for another break in cycle then re set lash and run all good had lot guys loosening loob on cam at breaking in or shortly there after so ole timer told me this he did for years on huge motor s. And it works awesome

haroldheady
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Make sure the lifters spin freely in there bores. The lobe is ground at an angle so the lifter spins and reduces friction and wear

michaeledge
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Installed Comp's XE256H (212/218 dur. ~.450 lift) on my 350 '93 K1500 truck. Put GM's hydraulic lifters with the hardened faces from Summit in there.

Bought everything near the end of '21, installed and broke it in this past spring.

Used Driven's 15w50 break in oil and now I'm running their 10w30 hot rod oil since I moved to a cold climate. About 200 miles in.. not driving much because I'm still working on the truck, but the engine runs great.

The only thing I didn't do was check for the proper convex crown on the lifter faces before I put the motor together.. learned about that afterward.

A good local machine shop was essential for me as a first time builder.

four-eight-zero
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A guy who grew up in the 60's told me if you want to make power go flat tappet. That was 30 years ago.

stephenkrauss
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I wanted to get a hydraulic roller cam for my truck because I wouldn't have to worry much about a break-in period, but with the hydraulic flat tappet version costing roughly 1/4 the price that leaves about $800 for heads and headers

thaddacusmaximus
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I'm still running a isky hydraulic cam from the sixties in a 469 Pontiac. Thought about a roller but I like this cam so well I think I will keep it. 320 degrees 525lift. Nothing wrong with flat tappet cams. It makes more power than I ever imagined and the roller lifters I have seen that failed and wasted a cam is enough to make me stay with it. I still want to try one. I think I will build a small block Chevy if I can find specs I like.

..

richochett
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flat tappet cams make power, the deal is before you take the lifters out of the box, make sure the lifter bores are clean, Ive seen guys chase the bores with a hone but, im not sure thats the way to go, the lifter has to rotate, and some engines have a slight off set for the lifter bores which causes the cam to stay in place plus the cam lobe is off set a hair, the lifters have to spin and so do the push rods pre heating the oil and whatever you got in the cooling system will help, cam buttons are a good idea, so is sticking a magnent on the oil filter( it wont trap bearing material) as its non ferris, vary the start up rpms between 1500 and 2300, .

tomashton
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Good lord, I need the specs on the cam in the 289... that thing sounds hot! Thinking about doing a 331 for my galaxie

alanb
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Possibly mention rpm ranges and what impact the cam has on them.

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