DIY Engine Adapter Plate (Mate any Engine to any Transmission)

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This was a huge project and something I have always wanted to try. In dreaming of swapping bigger engines into a vehicle, you are always limited to engine and transmission compatibility. But not now! This opens the door for so many other engine swap options. I am already re-thinking my LS swapped MR2 for the Toyota 1muz v8 which would have been less blasphemous. Either way, this shows if you can put some time into it, you can do this at the DIY level.

Please let me know what you think and leave a LIKE if this vid helped you out at all. Please comment below with any questions you may have.

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––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––#engine #transmission #streetcar #fabrication #metalfabrication
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It is refreshing to see someone on youtube using hand tools for once instead of using a CNC machine sponsored by some vendor.

tipetu
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“I’m ok with doing sorta sketchy stuff” Understatement of the week bro.

Watchdog_UFOtestpilot
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Now that is genius, handcrafted, effective and affordable!

frankjacoby
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Exactly the same way i made the adapter for my GT40 replica 20 plus years ago .. Had some hard track work and street miles and never missed a beat.. Great video. nice clear explanations of each step.. Well done..

iansheppard
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Bro did you really just cut a circle with an angle grinder??? You’re the G.O.A.T💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿🤣🤣🤣 I’ve seen a lot on YouTube but never that😂😂😂

papergatorzfedducca
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By far the most valuable and useful video I've watched on YouTube in a very long time ! Thanks for posting.

MrSpot
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If you will use plexiglass for your template, you can align things better. Sometimes you only need 1 plate and it helps for centering on crank and input shaft

battleaxefabandmachine
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I’m swapping a 2.0L VW TDI into my Ford Ranger right now. I’m not going to pay $1200 for an aluminum milled adapter plate and was looking for an alternative. This is exactly what I was thinking of doing! ThanX for all of the tips to make it easier!

davidward
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Yes, this! First person on YouTube I’ve found that does things the way my Grandpa did. The “pecking hammer” to locate drill holes. Love it.

JoshuaFletcher
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Wow that was really cool man! You are a true "car guy" in every sense of the word. So cool, thanks for sharing your process 👍

SouthMainAuto
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This is excellent, good to see that you showed the homemade jig to cut a circle. Couple things for anyone who's never done this: The major things to line up on a manual transmission is the flywheel pilot bearing the input shaft and the dowels everything else can be fudged pretty safely (unless you're operating at big power and all that) as the bolts just clamp everything together. This is a transaxle so it's important everything is nice and straight, on a transmission you can be a couple degrees out it won't be the end of the world. I've seen transmissions cocked over 20 degrees for fitment, especially manual, just makes fluid fill/drain a concern. Autos are pickier.

If you're having trouble with patterning, you can try the shading method which is use a pencil, or you can try tracing paper from any art store, put a light behind the engine/transmission so the part to trace is a dark area. A great thing you can do for cheap nowadays is 3d print parts of the shape and test fit to get dimensions right, takes a couple days sometimes but it's really useful. When cutting a circle with an angle grinder your grinder shouldn't be in too deep it should just barely cut the deeper you go the more your blade will want to cut straight (cos it is straight) be patient with this, also i know you didn't do this, but i think it's better to screw the plate being cut on a piece of wood and clamping that on a bench cut until you see the wood. What i prefer is to use a transfer punch to center out the dowels on your plate then measure from that for the remaining holes and cuts and use a centering punch for all that. Again the important locations are dowels and input shaft. Almost all the engines counter torque goes through the dowels and having a misaligned input shaft will destroy the transmission and other stuff. What i like to do is to measure the input pilot bearing area (or get the spec online) drill and ream a hole so it's precise and slide the plate over that with the transmission facing up (or down) then transfer punch the dowels. this makes sure your 3 holes of most important dimensions are dead on. Everything else you can use a template. it sometimes helps to use studs instead of bolts to help with alignment and all that especially if you don't have all the space in the world to drop engine and transmission if you gotta do a clutch or something.

The flywheel is probably the biggest problem you'll have to consider because there's no way to do it without a trip to the machine shop, unless you find a swap flywheel or all your spaces match up perfectly. A clutch and pressure plate don't care what the flywheel looks like assuming you have correctly places holes and dowels and correct clutch surface. But the clutch splines are critical and so you may need an adapter surface. You may have to get creative, i used vw clutch drilled out to pressfit and weld a T5 mustang clutch collar to adapt a t5 to my aircooled vw engine. I had to use a lathe to dial in the center of of the clutch and collar.

SPAZTICCYTOPLASM
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So cool to see someone doing stuff the old school way. I built an adapter years ago to mate my Dodge V8 to a GM Power Glide for drag racing. Great job. 🇺🇸🦅🏁

riverrat
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True definition of what it is to be a real hot rodder. Excellent work.

raulduke
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Simply Smart! Good sense and some out of the box thinking!
Torque is a deceitfully viscous monster.
I would web it on the inside and outside, and fully seam weld it.
To minimize warping, bolt it to a part ( gearbox and then the engine, alternatively)
Run short 3/4 inch welds at opposite sides then leave it to cool for 20 min.
Slow, I know [ bit by bit, while you're busy with other stuff.]
Only unbolt it when room temperature.
It is going to stress fracture where it it welded after a few heat cycles if you don't.
I've seen it.
Over do it.
Thank you for your time and sharing your experience.

julianjennings
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Couple things. First I noticed when you cranked it with starter the first time I noticed that the flywheel was wobbling. 2nd thing is you have now way if knowing center line of crank & input of Trans. The 2 should be within approx. .003in. Then the adapter plate should probably have been parallel machined on both sides . If not you might have issues with pilot & input bearings. Dowel pins are there for a reason.

johnvrbka
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These are the best methods with common tools in our garage
Thanks mate! You're a legend!

muhammadiqbalshiddiq
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Talk about old school. My dad showed me how to this in 1974, replacing the flathead engine in a 1948 4 pickup with a 394 Oldsmobile from an early '60's Delta 88, I think. Though thinking back, would have been better and easier to swap the trans too because the 48 Ford was low geared and before scyncros so even with the better engine, top speed was 50-60 mph full out and it would grind the gears if you weren't conscious to double clutch.
But reality, great idea you have. I haven't thought about it since back them, but done 100's of other swaps. Like to see it done with sidewinder, Did a 389 Pontiac backwards into an old school VW beetle, hard to keep the front wheels on the ground, also a caddy Northstar into Pontiac Fierro was fun. Now planning a LS + 4l80 into a 1969 Pontiac Bonneville where once rested a 375 horse 428 with turbo 400 automatic. Keep up good work

timthemechanix
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Literally a Trailblazer!! cars are my FAVORITE Dedication!!! Thanks for Sharing!!!!

Dario-hg
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That's a really interesting design. Never seen that before. I probably would have boxed the inside radius for more rigidity, but yeah, well done mate!

pauljcampbell
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Nice work without all the big fancy tools. When I put a v8 into an s10 many years ago, I made a single plate that connected the motor and trans. Truck originally had the 2.8 60° motor. I went about the same way making my template.

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