3D Printed TouchDRO Display Mount for Lathe

Original design for universal phone stand:

New videos published every Friday, featuring a new 3D printed functional object, how I use it, and design considerations.

The design depicted in this video is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License or other non-commercial license.

functional
print
fpf
lathe
Nylon
Carbon Fiber
PA6-CF
PM1440GT
precision matthews
1440

[speeddemon]

Too funny seeing a TouchDRO. I ordered one for my lathe and guess what? He lives on my street lol. I got to walk over and pick it up in person!

[TrinityFD]

This video gave me some inspiration to design/print a similar bracket for my wood lathe. Not for TouchDRO, but for other attachments.
Thanks for the awesome series!

[billbyrd]

I stopped at 3:21 to tell you that I had the exact same problem with sticking on my two day old Bambu Mini. Everything I printed came out perfect until I got to this one file. I even added glue stick which was not needed before. Even that didn't work. Somehow, somewhere, I made a mistake in the drawing. OR I sliced it in Cura by mistake. The Bambu doesn't like my Cura slices and usually won't print them at all. To make a long story shorter, I redrew the damn thing, sliced it in Bambu Studio, and it printed flawlessly.

[StuartsShed]

The things you print are certainly very elegant designs and solutions.

[TAWPTool]

I love your videos and channel. Practical items that you can print at home.

I also love your ride in the background that I just noticed! Probably because I just bought the identical truck in white. Great vehicle!

[therick]

Washing the build plate with actual Dawn dish soap solves most of my bed adhesion problems. "Nice" soap tends to have oils in it for scent. There's also Vision Miner bed adhesive

[Daniel-vhlg]

O man, I have so many old mobile phones being used as accessories for other stuff I lost count! I have a Microscope, DRO, Remote Jog Pendant, Webcam, it's endless.

[GordLamb]

Love your videos so much. My path has been the opposite - tons of 3D printing experience, then got into machining. It's so interesting to watch the progression from the other perspective.

Anyway, the monitor/coolant pipe clamp you built is another part I'd personally recommend in something other than CF-PLA; I suspect creep will become a pain with it loosening over time. PLA sucks under constant load. Looks like the tolerances are tight enough it might not be an issue, but if you get bored one day I'd suggest reprinting in CF-PA6 if you can get it clean, or if not CF-PETG... my personal favorite all-rounder.

[kfhqf]

Garolite (G10) is hands down the best bed surface for any Nylons. Others will work okay, but I've never had a Nylon print fail to stick to G10. No adhesive needed at all, just clean with IPA. You can build your own by sourcing G10 sheets, or buy a bed from Lightyear. I've done both with equal results. Great projects!

[pavelkolar]

That's so cool. Your projects are great.

[michaelgleason]

Im not an expert in that material, but general bed adhesion tips
1) wash build plate with Dawn
2) wipe off build plate with IPA. Do this so you're wiping off, not just pushing around.
If that doesn't do it, there's hairspray or glue stick (not sure if they can react with your filament).
If all else fails, you may have to resort to blue painter's tape.

Good luck my fellow maker!

[lowellhouser]

VisionMiner bed adhesive on a smooth PEI sheet will work. I just got that combo working with off-brand blue nylon string trimmer filament, so it will work for PA-12 or PA-06.

[すどにむ]

Adhesion could be nozzle wear issue too. If you purge the material and it comes straight down it's something else, if it curls up against gravity it's the nozzle.

[webslinger]

I've used gluestick with Fusrock abs-gf. It wouldn't stick to the bed till I used it. Added painter's tape for easy removal.

[GarryWButler]

did you try glue stick? spray the bed winddex and air dry? Try the Bambu Engineering build plate?

[hampgoodwin]

not sure if carbon nylon is similar to petg-cf; but I had to raise my bed temp to nearly max recommended as well as nozzle temp. Additionally getting the latest bambu firmware has helped a ton. Also on especially tricky prints slowing down a lot helps _and_ cleaning the print bed _every single print_ as well as ensuring the nozzle tip (outside) is clear before every print.

Goodluck!

[osumailguy]

Great job ...when you mentioned blue, I was initially thinking it was going to match the blue of the coolant tube, to "tie" those two pieces together in that area (I hope this comment doesn't trigger a desire to make that a reality!)

[rainmannoodles]

A trick to more easily get a “snug” fit on the inside of a hole: put a couple axial ridges along the inner face. It gives you a much wider tolerance for a decent fit, since the individual ridges can deform and sort of press out into the infill. If the inner surface is completely circular, the only way for it to deform is for the entire perimeter to stretch, which gives you a very small window to work with.

[zerog]

Try some scigrip/weldon. It works really great with abs (probably because it’s meant for acrylic). The key for any adhesive/cement/glue is prepping the surface. Use some high grit sandpaper (300-400), or some green scotchbrite to rough up the mating surfaces.

[keg]

13:13 threaded insert with a knurled nut to tight to exact angle you want.