How to Calibrate a Top-Load Washer

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This video from Sears PartsDirect shows how to calibrate a Kenmore, Whirlpool or Maytag top-load washer that has a vertical modular drive system. Your you’re your washing machine has a vertical modular drive system if it was made in 2010 or later, has a control dial for setting the wash load and stays locked whenever the washer is running. The end of this article has a list of models that have to be calibrated after one of these repairs.

Calibrate the washer’s electronic control board if you replace any of these parts:
• Electronic control board
• Drive motor
• Motor capacitor
• Tub suspension springs
If you don’t calibrate the washer, the washer might not fill with the right amount of water for the load or might have frequently unbalanced loads.

With the washer shut off, the basket empty and the lid closed, enter the diagnostic mode:
1. Turn the control dial 1 complete rotation counterclockwise.

2. Quickly (within about 6 seconds) turn the control dial 3 clicks clockwise, one click counterclockwise, and one more click clockwise.

All the status lights blink green when you successfully activate the diagnostic mode. If the status lights don’t blink, turn the control dial one complete rotation counter-clockwise to reset the control and then repeat steps 1 and 2, this time turning the knob faster during step 2.

3. Turn the control dial 4 clicks clockwise.

4. When the Rinse light turns on, press Start to begin the calibration cycle
The calibration cycle runs for 2 to 3 minutes. When the calibration cycle ends, the lid unlocks, and the washer shuts off.
VMW washer models that require calibration:
110.2002201, 110.20022011, 110.20022012, 110.20022013, 110.20022014, 110.2010231, 110.20102311, 110.20102312, 110.2011231, 110.20112311, 110.2110201, 110.21102011, 110.21102012, 110.21102013, 110.2111201, 110.21112011, 110.2118201, 110.21182011, 110.21182012, 110.21182013, 110.2120201, 110.21202011, 110.2125211, 110.21252111, 110.21252112, 110.2129201, 110.21292011, 110.21292012, 110.21292013, 110.2130201, 110.21302011, 110.21302012, 110.21302013, 110.2135211, 110.21352111, 110.21352112, 110.2139201, 110.21392011, 110.21392012, 110.21392013, 110.2149231, 110.21492311, 110.2210231, 110.22102311, 110.22102312, 110.2234251, 110.2244251, 110.2310231, 110.23102311, 110.2510231, 110.25102311, 110.2513241, 110.2600201, 110.26002011, 110.26002012, 110.2601201, 110.26012011, 110.26012012, 110.2611231, 110.2710231, 110.2712231, 110.2800201, 110.28002011, 110.28002012, 110.2801201, 110.28012011, 110.28012012, 110.299231, 110.507201, 110.5072011, 110.5072012, MVWC400XW, MVWX500XW, MVWX550XW, MVWX600XW, MVWX700XW, WTW4950XW, WTW5500XW, WTW5550XW, WTW5600XW, WTW5700XW

Find parts for your washing machine at:

Or click here to schedule an appointment with a repair technician.
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I wish I found this video before I bought my new washer, Dang, might of saved me a lot

robtaylor
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That feeling you get when you fix it yourself. 😁 Thanks for the video. This Saved me.

jll
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As mentioned earlier in the comments timing is crucial. Follow the cadence (speed) demonstrated in the video too fast or too slow will not work, 6 seconds is longer than you think no need to rush!

frost
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I wish more if these videos would specify the model of appliance being shown.

rickeykeeton
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My mom thinks I'm some washing machine whisperer. All I do is follow the instructions from this video.

mateoxiii
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Ok I figured it out. Timing is everything. I start like she does at normal, one complete rotation counter clockwise. I pause and rotate slowly knob to three o'clock position, back one and forward one. All lights came on, dialed in rinse cycle and pressed start. Electronics and mechanics are now time and in sync. It takes patience and practice.

erin
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Just tried this on my Amana toploader model Ntw4600yq totally works yay! Thanks for posting

OkieMomLife
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I have a Kenmore 11020022012 washer, serial #C23320125. The spin basket completely rusted away and separated from the drive shaft about 8" up from the tub bottom. It did all the rusting from the inside/underside of the porcelain spin basket [covered by the agitator] and there was no indication that there was rusting going on looking at the inner surface of the porcelain. I have removed the tall agitator, spin basket, retaining nut, etc. There is a splined driveshaft inside a smooth tube. There appears to be a lipped seal of some sort between the inner and outer driveshaft. Is this a waterproof seal that gets submerged with a full load or is it just a splash seal and the water level never actually gets this high? I don't want to start replacing the spin basket and tub seal on an old washer [still way cheaper than a new machine] if water is going to leak past this lip seal and into the gearbox. From the parts diagrams, it appears there may be a gearbox with a short driveshaft but my driveshaft is the long one [12" from bottom of tub to top of splined shaft]. I don't see any individual parts listed for the driveshaft, only a gearbox unit as a whole.

benhiggins-noaafederal
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If it doesn't work try to start at the Casual setting vs the regular setting and do the exact same steps

justanornallife
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My green lights are not flashing from right to left during Recalibration mode, they all illuminate until Recalibration completes. There are no error codes stored. My washer is stuck on the Wash cycle. Does this mean I have a bad Control Board?

davidh
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The video should mention the calibration cycles fills and runs the machine for a short period.

adirondackcarfoundry
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Im dealing with a kenmore 100 series that just fills theb immediately drains and goes no further. But the motor works fine. Trying the calibration and hopefully it fixes it.

TheMarineof
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Does this need to be done if I replace the lid lock switch that went bad because my washer still is not working an there are no error codes once I checked in diagnostics mode

jumpman
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Any tips for if the spin / drain cycle only runs intermittently. clothes are coming out wet unless i rerun the spin cycle by itself i have checked all the hose and drains and pumps everything seems fine

FowlDadyPoppz
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The fix also works for Admiral washers. I wish I'd known that a few months ago. It would of saved $65.

darrylhall
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If you try this and everything does what it is supposed to and your washer still isn't working, like mine wash, then it probably isn't filling to the max. Look behind where the water enters the washer and check the tiny little filter. Clean it really well and replace it on your machine. This was the fix I needed. Oh, he also said he recalibrated the machine. If you know what that means let me know. There was also a secret manual hidden in the body of the machine marked FOR SERVICE TECHNICIANS USE ONLY. How about that?

josephinemiller
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Hello I am having difficulties determining why my washer is not filling. Kenmore model 110 series 500. We have replaced the actuator motor and are seeing error codes F3E1. Any help would be appreciated.

nevelgrogan
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Please help me! So, I have replaced the Lid Lock and The Lid Lock Sensor thing with the wires. It was Calibrating until I replaced these parts. I have done the Diagnostics and it tells me No errors found. Now I'm just stuck in Lid Lock mode. Upon trying to Calibrate, it just locks, senses, spins then stops. I have to unplug it to get the Lid to unlock. ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED! Now it won't even go thru the whole Calibration Cycle!

motherearth
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I have this washer why it doesn't detect when it's a small load or large load it over fills with water and it comes out pouring in bottom

anthonyjazek
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Ima having trouble lid lock keeps flashing water comes out, it just don’t spin or wash, lid lock light keeps flashing only

christianramirez