Ford 4.0L Timing Chain Replacement, Cloyes 9-0398SB

🔥 This technical video from Cloyes covers the removal and installation of the timing drive system for Ford's 4.0L SOHC engine.

⛓ Part numbers related to this video are: 9-0398SB, 9-0398SC, 9-0398SD, 9-0398SE, 9-0443SR, 9-0444SF, 9-0701SA, 9-5586, P441, P442

🚗 Application coverage ranges from the model years 1997-2011 and the following vehicles:

Ford Explorer
Ford Explorer Sport
Ford Explorer Sport Trac
Ford Mustang
Ford Ranger
Mazda B4000
Mercury Mountaineer

[Slonya]

Thank you Ford for making one of your most popular engines timing components so hard to service.

[PiggyWiggyHunter]

This is the best informative video I've seen in ages .

[BB-hiof]

My rear timing chain is rattling a lot lately. Was debating on replacing the motor but i will probably go ahead with the fix you demonstrated here! Thanks alot ! will be playing this video a few times

[TexasDallas]

You guys are awesome!

Thank you so very much for making this video!!

I bought your product because of it.

Keep up the good work.

[sigguy]

Great instructional video. Was bummed when you said "remove the engine." Dang. A little more than I anticipated.

[Cja]

I learned during my 4.0 SOHC timing chain replacement: 1:use a longer crank bolt to help get the balancer off. 2: installing the bank 2 chain guide is tough, requires force and may break the guide if not careful (the segment that this video skips). 3: I had the cylinder heads off to do head gaskets, had both front and rear chains off at the same time- torquing the jackshaft bolts is possible without the rear jackshaft sprocket holding tool- Use the cam sprocket holding tool and the tensioner tool on bank 2 to hold the timing chain and torque the front jackshaft bolt, then put a bolt into the bank 1 cylinder head and prop the breaker bar against it while you torque the rear jackshaft then set bank 2 timing with special tools and then set bank 1 timing. 4: the timing cover has to be centered on the crank otherwise the front seal will leak badly. I used a micrometer and positioned it best i could and tightened down the cover, and re-checked it. 5: the front crank seal should be pressed in with the plastic crank seal dust shield so the plastic shield is flush with the cover. 6: If you pull out the injectors and the insert in the cylinder head comes out with it, replace it. (ford calls these injector seal adapters) they press into the cylinder head and are hard to get out without valve removal. These were the issues i came across during the challenge, and are solutions that i used with success. Hope this helps someone before they dig too deep of a hole.

[jerryjamify]

That's what I call a professional, informative video. Thank you for posting....

[MrPami]

great video, finally find a video that explain the step by step procedure, not too bad of a job, taking the engine out is pain, lol

[BrianSmith-lomj]

Finally! Someone actually posted a How-To video on this procedure. I've been looking for years to find a complete instructional video like this and this is the first one. I have a 2004 Ranger with this engine and it makes the horrible rattle sound on start up. It's a 2WD, so how likely is the noise just coming from the front? I just hate the idea of pulling the whole engine and replacing everything.

[Cobranut]

Thanks. Very nice video. Much more straightforward than the Ford Workshop manual, which says to remove the cylinder heads to do this job?
I guess they just want to sell more gaskets and torque to yield head bolts. SMH

[joeh]

Excellent video if I did it correctly, I suggest adding the two torque to yield Jack shaft bolts to your kit.

[brianpinzon]

There's a problem within this video as you get towards the end on time of scene at 10:30. You can see the original tensioner in place and not the tool tensioner. The when you see the tool tensioner back on scene time 10:44 as if he's just taking it off. This part is very misleading.

[ronaldtober]

nice video, did my 2004 mercury mountaineer a year ago and used cloyes complete kit with balance shaft, also got the tools for the job, it went smooth as well as redid heads wish i had this video then for a reference but oh well. You do need to pull the engine .

[bradharper]

Great informative video. My explorer is young (84, 000 miles) and has developed a horrible sound from previous owners abuse. No damage on chains or sprockets, but those horrible guides are destroyed. Easy fix! (Thank God the back chain makes no noise, can't pull the engine on your only car and still make it to work :P)

[Jmen-ogiv]

Thank you for this video! It’s about to save me a lot of time and probably an engine!

[koolchris]

Dang. That’s a huge job. Well if it doesn’t get done the old Ford Explorer will become the old exploder. Such fun.

[martystevens]

Thank you for the reply! I agree. Maybe include that on future videos so others won't think it's a good idea when they work on engines. A leak-down test can check for bent valves. Remove the timing chain for 1 side of the cam and get it at TDC and with both valves closed. Then if the valve leaks you'll know before putting the engine back in. You can do the test before replacing the chain with new parts.

[stuartloggins]

After watching you do it i don't understand why anyone would be afraid to do it themselves.

[eulasdubois]

Very thankful of the video. It helped alot. I would edit the balancer selection of this video by putting some time of instruction on the video to aline the balancer shaft and hole under the balancer shaft. Thanks a ton

[jwoodby]

Very helpful video! I purchased TTY jackshaft bolts from Ford dealership. Front bolt part #2L2Z-6279-AA rear bolt part# W703167-S430