V6 Beta Breakdown, Balance points, flagging, USE YOUR HIPS!

V6 Beta Breakdown. Tons to learn from this one! It is a fun and balancey one. Lots of use of flags and hips to keep good balance moving through the holds. The only really great hold on the route is the pocket you move to first. It requires you to be accurate so you need to find a stable position (or be precise if you go quickly) I created a nice box and kept my right hip in with the drop knee to be create that stability. With the cross through pay attention again to my right hip twisting in allowing me to weight the left hand hold, this is because with the hip twisted I now have my upper body leaning backwards (in this case also right on the wall) so I can pull on that crimp since it required force going right in the hands and force going left in the feet. Coming out of the back flag I needed to focus on the balance of my right foot flag, my hips, and my shoulders. The holds I were on were alright but stacked above each other and I only had 1 good foot, this creates a straight line through all my points of contact and makes balancey difficult. I used my right leg to find and hold that balance point as I move out left. (Think of someone on a tight rope using their arms to balance)