Ender 3 V3 SE Upgrades (Yay or Nay??)

Fans and blower mount

Spatula

Backgroundmusic - Refreshing and relaxing house music by Aspal

[jasongooden]

One mod I did on mine was a 50 degree screen mount that makes the screen go closer to the bed letting the printer take up less space on the desk.. also I added a lighting system that has a RGB remote.

[llehsaderob]

for the benchy check e step calibration, and flow rate calibration. I basically upgraded rails, used silicone spacers, z gantry shims and no matter what I was getting sand paper quality on one of the sides and including brims for some reason, the first layer was always rough. I then replaced the nozzle (should've been my first fix...) and didn't recalibrate z-offset, can you guess what happened to my build plate :P. I had almost given up till I found people on youtube talking about my problems which seem similar to your benchy. e step calibration didn't do much but now I had it calibrated, then I printed a flow calibration gcode from printables, and it started making sense. I was over extruding because of flow by 30% dialed it back on my slicer to 70% and low and behold I can print good again. My z-offset still feels a little off from the auto z offset, but again the difference is almost night and day. Right now my problem is either to low or too high no mater what increment I use but prints a whole lot better than before. I wanna try the hot end as my next upgrade and put the x rail upgrade that's throwing another $70 at it, the y rails where $50, the other parts like $20. I did get a couple of 5015s that i'm gonna splice together with a pigtail and do dual duct but with two 5015s and hopefully I will be able to do crazy overhangs. I don't know how much of a difference the hotend upgraded fan will do with the stock hotend but maybe I'll try that too. Your's is the first duct that doesn't run front to back on the nozzle as I like being able to watch it as it prints and most of the other models obstruct view from the front.
The rail upgrade was a must, since I could not find replacement y rods online anywhere available to me (U.S.). One guy sells a kit for and upgraded kit for $50 10mm from 8ish-mm but is sold out.

I'm also printing z gantry supports, even though the rails negate much of the bed wobble the z gantry seems flimsy while printing. I really wish they would've used the same body for all the v3 since the flagship is all metal I assume it's a whole lot sturdier than the se/ke. Also the se should've come stock with klipper even if we didn't get a touch screen. $70 for the nebula pad updgrade seems too steep for what you get but maybe if I score a used one somewhere so I can finally try input shaping. To be fair I think you only need the sensor and custom firmware navaismo which I may try since the sensor is like $5 and the firmware is free :P

[АртемКучер-шз]

Advice from my own experience.
Replace the ptfe tube in front of the hotend with the one that came with the printer, it should be made a little shorter than the one that came with the new hotend.
This will help to accurately feed the filament as before, and not rest against the metal throat, if the filament is cut a little incorrectly.

Порада з власного досвіду.
Замініть ptfe трубку перед хотендом на ту, що була в комлекті принтера, її треба зробити трохи корочшою за ту, що була в комплекті нового хотенду.
Це допоможе влучно заправляти філамент як і раніше, а не упиратись в металеве горло, якщо нитка трохи невдало обрізана.

[hugopnabais]

Your printer must had a problem, your "original" boat was not good at all, but my original printer, no mods prints exactly as your final benchie boat!

[Codiferus]

My S1 printed better straight out of the box with zero calibration than both of those examples. Quality does not even start to degrade until 200+mm/s and maximum allowed firmware acceleration/jerk, even then its just slight distortion on overhangs. How fast were you trying to push that thing?

[juanvaz]

Hi, realy good Video and helpful. Is it possible that you provide also the used Screw size for the complete Fan Upgrade 4020 and 5015. Thanks in advance

[micver]

I goth x axis upgrade it is a must do .
Today sort to say.
Y axis you need to check them ore put a peace pla under the screws to stop the wobbeling from the rods.
And a nebula pad kit .
For klipper and let the se rock

[viper]

get klipper and add suport to the gantery if you want to fast and liniar rails

[poepflater]

I print loose cores that fit the center of my spools that have a central hole that is closer to the bar it rotates around in size... this way the spool rotates smoothly around its center rather than the irregular tension you get when you just let it do its own thing

[micver]

One thing folks.
Stock great prints at slow speed.s.
Z screws need loctide.
Running klipper.
There is a lot to do on this printer if you want it fast and good x axis upgrade nebula pad and klipper.
Y axis fixd ore upgrade.
Antishake.
Anti shake feet.
Runout sensor.
Pei sheet.
Spoolholder gone from the machine.
And then your there where the ke is.
And dint forgeth the hotend.
The se great printer if you want to print and wait.
Nothing wrong .
Want a fast one go geth the ke.
Upgraden from this machine is the same mony.
If y new this one year ago i wud have goth the ke.
Now i just upgrade this machine and it fly.s.

[UbbeSolskin]

Hey dude. Liked your video. Do you have links for the 5015 blower print? And the 4020 fan? I got a 4010 fan, planning on getting the 5015 blower, but need mounts. Keep up the good work man, nice printer!

[WolfKingJS]

Do you have to disassemble the tower to put the bins?

[rasmusewaldh]

I would change the extruder as well and skip bowden tube to remove any clogging issues as well as maybe play around with the settings since your prints isnt as smooth as they can be unless you use pla mostly, in my opinion petg gives best strength, quality and surface

[DronePath]

I think you got some settings in your slicer wrong or printing too fast my SE even stock looks better than the upgraded versions benchy

[emukiller]

Mine is still stock. What's the purpose of all they different build plates? What is used for what?

[Kenik]

cool setup! just got mine yesterday and started upgrading right away. i noticed you have the lighter/spatula holder not linked, would like to print it aswell :)

[feffe]

Lots of extra plastic. The one thing i had to get was the new fan holders etc. Stupid stock fans started grinding gears like 2 weeks after purchase. Exchanged the little 2cm fan thinking it was it but nooo. Turned out it was that special fan on the side. Annoying af. Printer still prints good tho.

[Schjoenz]

I had the same upgrade on my hotend. I was hoping you added some more device like filament detector or other attachment.

[Bongolinarina]

Why is my extruder different from yours? I also have the Ender3 V3 SE, but my extruder doesn't have those 2 screws for the printer fan mount to go onto??

[viriatrix]

Hello, I have my SE for a month now, works great, if anyone is reading this, tell me what you think. A friend of mine recommended I remove the PEI on the bed, and get a glass panel (not tempered, just plain 4mm or so thick glass) of the same size, he says he does it with his printers and its day and night. I havent looked online about it yet tbh.