Removing Rusted Bolts

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Executive Producer : Dave Grainger
Executive Producer : Janice Stone
Director : Christopher Rowana
Producer : Thomas Douglas
DOP : Stephen Hawkins
Sound Recordist : Timothy Harrison
Editor : Timothy Harrison
Music : Daniel Willette

We have all been there, trying to replace a worn part and that damn bolt that is welded by rust has turned your 1 hour job into a day long knuckle busting frustration. Fear not, in this episode we address this issue to help the at home enthusiast deal with the issue of rusted hardware in several ways. Please subscribe if you want to see more great content!

The Guild’s Classics is not endorsed or affiliated with the documentary series titled Restoration Garage or its affiliates.
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Love the work the Guild does.
Once you heat a nut and bolt up to cherry red and let it cool down you change the temper and strength of the nut and bolt.
If you have done that, then you need to replace the nut and bolt.
Sometimes the nut is jammed on because oil between it and the bolt has dried out an turned into locktite.
All it needs is low heat from a heat gun to soften it and easily remove the nut without damage.
I try that first then the penetrating fluid then the torch as a last resort.
Cheers.

bentaxelrod
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Had never heard of the ATF/diesel combination before.
Nice tip.

Ellesmere
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Been struggling with a blind nut/broken bolt which is seized inside of a hardened bushing. Can't find anything on line that shows how to deal with this. I never thought about this, but the true pros at removing rusted crap are you guys who restore stuff.

stevearttus
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Aerokroil, spray pennitrant works amazingly well. Mopar rust&corrosion spray is.also great.

stevewilson
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All standard tecniques. Pb is the best.

keithsclassicgarage
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What is that gel stuff? I could use that!

guy-qkjd
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Thank you for the video. Looking for methods. There is a phrase " nuts & bolts ". You are working
on nuts, not bolts. ?? If you snap the head of a bolt off, it's trouble. Any ideas.

joem
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Free All penetrating oil Actually dissolves the internal frozen rust, unlike other sprays.

JimTMcDaniels
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Firstly, my rusted nuts are beneath my fuel tank, so no torch, and its upside down !! I secondly, I have rusted nuts near my brake caliper, so no liquid lubrication incase it affects the brakes ! what do you advice in both cases please ?

jasonfallon
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Have you guys ever use Aerokroil? It's crazy how good the stuff works even better then PB which I was using for years

TheRunner
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I thought it was ATF and acetone, but I'll check out diesel fuel as well

ricebike
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Why is the items you use are blur out?

xpert_kb
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I restore old Toyota FJ40's worst rust of all classics. Japanese used horrible steel, Best penetrating oil all is home made 50% Acetone 50% ATF automatic trans. fluid cheap and wicks much better... Also candle wax Capillary action works very well too. Heat it up and stick a candle on

landcruiserintervention
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This is someone who does not know why something works and makes up a story that uneducated people believe. I would not let him within ten feet of my cars with a tool he is a salesman...yikes.

heavenstomurgatroyd
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Typical misinformation. Heat the stud cherry red, NOT the nut. Think about it. Got a race stuck in a casing? Again, spot heat the RACE fast and hot. It will fall right out once it cools.

Ricopolico
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You as soon as they pull out the snake oil they're either stupid or a thief.

ekimyt
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lol Ok heating the nut expands its. Guess what genius. Its expands it both ways. out and in so it actually makes it tighter on the threads. What heating does is burns off the rust between the thread of both the nut and the bolt turning the rust particles into carbon vs iron oxide. Smaller particles. Now carbon unless compressed does not make a bond where as iron oxide can.
Again "the guilty" hire educated guys ffs.

bonnivilleblackcherry