Dryer Drive Motor Testing - Dryer Troubleshooting

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Dryer drum won't spin? The drive motor could be faulty. This video will show you how to test a motor to see if it is causing your problem.

Other commonly replaced parts:

Thermal fuse
Gas solenoid valve
Dryer igniter
High limit thermostat
Cycling thermostat
Main control board
Timer

Click here to purchase the multimeter used in this part testing video:

How to disassemble your dryer:

For more DIY videos including part replacement and help finding your model visit the repair help section of our website:

All of the information provided in this part testing video is applicable to the following brands: Amana, Frigidaire, GE, Kenmore, LG, Maytag, Roper, Samsung and Whirlpool.

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One could also solder a jumper across the thermal break, older dryer motors do not have this safety feature to protect the motor, but if you cannot replace the thermal break and therefore have to replace the motor anyways, why protect it, you may as well just use a jumper and get on with your day and continue on with the mortor you already have.

scrim
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Good to know but I usually listen for the notorious sound it makes

sipmeister
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No you don’t need to replace the whole motor if the overload shows open. Just replace the overload!

bougatses
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i have no continuity ton the run wire, motor is dead, everything else has continuity

millechemins
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fixing dryers as a hobby and no major electrical background, learning from youtube and couple friends. it has been super easy till now, failed or clogged heat sensors or reaped belts, or destroyed balance wheels. So i got GE dryer that someone dumped. This was my first GE dryer and it was way different than Kenmores' and Whirlpools i used to work on. So it would not turn on. i tested bjesus out of all its parts, fuse, switches, sensors, etc. resistance, continuity and voltage, all seemed working ... i could not figure out where i have break in power.... almost gave up. So started all over but now followed chain of power as it passes from one component to the next. So i started testing voltage from the 'ON" button and the wire went to the "signal on/off" which did not pass power to the other wire on its exit till i switched signal to ON position. and then it hit me....right there, was a loose small red wire with connector on it and the signal on/off square gizmo had one more vacant receiver connector as if asking for something to be plugged to it ...and the length of that loose wire was just right to reach to that connector receptacle ... right there it dawn on me ... i traced that small loose red wire and it went straight to the motor.... bingo !!! the wire from stupid signal on/off was also splitting to power motor.

molotok
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Is this a single phase induction motor, if yes i don't see any capacitor, how does it run without capacitor?

endrakusuma
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at times like these i wish i was an electrical engineer. this and car stuff. and house stuff. o my lord... just take me already

RMDK
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What if the type copper wires reading are 001 and thermal shows 000

KevinEnrique-cfcl
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