How To Wire a Renogy DC to DC Charger Without Spending Hours On It!

Feeling lost on how to wire a Renogy DC to DC Charger? Don't worry! In this tutorial we'll show you how to get it done in no time, so you don't have to spend hours trying to figure it out. Plus, we've added some fun commentary and helpful tips along the way, so you not only get your wiring job done right, but you have a great time doing it too! Watch now and let's get wiring!

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Helpful book marks

Connecting Wires to Van Battery: 0:34
Running cables to DC to DC: 2:30
Connecting wires from battery to DC charger: 2:45
Connecting wires from DC charger to house batteries: 4:12
D plus ignition cable: 5:52
Adjusting DIP switches: 7:30

We made a few mistakes wiring our DC to DC charger so I hope this video will help at least one person.

We contacted Renogy multiple times and they provided us with some excellent info and customer service.

[InchByInchff]

First, this is a great video. Nice job!

I installed this same 40A charger and I have a couple suggestions.😊

I don’t feel like your wiring is unsafe or anything but you don’t need that 60A circuit breaker. Just change the starter battery ANL fuse from 50A to 60A. That’s what the manual says. Think about it. The way you have it hooked up now the 60A circuit breaker will never trip before the 50A starter battery fuse blows.

The manual shows ANL fuses not circuit breakers but again I think you’re fine.

The manual also says “When the battery charger is sending the rated amps, the input side may experience a higher current draw by a factor of up to 50%. Larger wire sizes generally improve performance, whereas smaller wire sizes may reduce performance, especially if undersize.”

So in my installation I chose to use 4AWG wire instead of 6AWG to get the “better performance”.

Also of note are the dip switch settings this charger has for different battery types and charge voltages. I have a lithium battery that needs 14.4V charging so switches 1 and 5 are off and 2-4 are on.

We also installed a switch on our dash that controls the two 12V inputs of D+ and LC. That way we can conveniently charge at 40A or 20A or just turn it off.

[Jon-fjv]

I like how you took your time to explain things

[jforger]

This is an outstanding video. The only suggested improvement would be to show how you wired in your battery monitor. Maybe you have that in a separate video?

[melangiehayden]

Great video! Thanks for getting to the point, and showing the details. Nice job.

[justDIY]

That positive terminal connection was scary looking. Seems easy for the improperly install fuse to be bypassed if it sags a bit and touches the bolt coming out of the busbar under it.

[freeheel]

Best video on this I've seen. Subscribed.

[ssurfit]

Cool video. A couple of observations... Please use a flexible conduit for your wire runs (wire sheathing isn't as thick as you think). The mega fuse needs to be mounted in a fuse holder (vibration can cause it to break, it needs support). Buy a crimp tool. The van is looking good btw.

[superstrings]

Nice video but missed function! Where the d+ socket on the charger there are two ports. This allows an additional 'loop' that will reduce the output to 20A. Ideal for those long journeys where a 20A charge is fine so as not to strain the alternator unnecessarily. I have this on a switch also so I can choose on/off and 20A or 40A output.

[KettlebellGunsmith]

Huge safety issue. The 50a fuse isn't in a fuse holder/enclosure. When a fuse blows, it can disintegrate. So that lead will fall on the live distribution bar when the fuse blows.

[NFSgamingEvo]

Hey, thanks for the info! I've got the other Regency model, but no smart alternator, so I need to tap power from somewhere else. On the DC charge input, there are two holes for the IG wire – which one's positive?

[Seventhstream]

Appreciate your video! Curious about the fuse placement; (1) 50A at battery to protect primary wire to DCDC Charger, (2) 60A CB to protect DCDC Charger from excessive input from primary wire, (3) 60A CB to protect down circuit (output) wire to Battery. With (2) installed, is (1) necessary? It appears that 50A fuse will blow before 60A CB is tripped. Thanks again for well documented installation.

[raystanton]

Oh, so this installation is for a van? The majority of RVs are travel trailers or 5th wheels. Would the installation be the same?

[billbarnes]

@dirtbagswithfurbags does it automatically go from charging to float? Thanks! Great video.

[sasmicky]

You have a space next to fuse use that instead just move red wire around the battery come in on the bottom of the fuse connector. Minute 1.49

[Van-life--Jesus]

You also do not need a circuit breaker for this to work....also you don't have to change your wire size you can use the same 2awg-6awg that you're alrdy using there is no negative to this

[Van-life--Jesus]

You dont have to have an inline fuse at the battery not a requirement for it to even work

[giorgio.plazzotta]

since u chose to use a ON/OFF switch from where did u power it? any power of a power that is on only when the engine is on? i suppose the second. the problem is some old vans is always to get a place where to intercept this power

[lucysadventures]

for the D+ ignition cable, does it need to be a black wire or does that not matter?

[jameslamb]

Do you have a 13 Volt Lithium Battery? A 12.8 Volt Battery? Or a 12.6 Volt Battery? On my 12.8 Volt Lithium Batteries The 1, 2, 4 and 5 switches are off. Only the #3 Switch is on (On is Pointing Down, Off is Pointing up.).

[simonc]

Why do you need 2 breakers before and after the charger?