IS A BATTERY ISOLATOR NEEDED FOR TWO BATTERIES?

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Do you think a Battery Isolator is needed? I'll show you here if it really is.

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You should have fuses in the back also, if you cable shorts out in the middle, the car will still burn down because the battery in the back also supplies the current 😮

icebreakerk
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With no battery isolator when one battery starts to fail the internal resistance of the weak battery will prematurely drain the other one. Also the charging system will over charge the good battery ruining it, and it will cause the alternator to fail prematurely due to trying to keep the batteries charged. Do not do this.

JamesHamilton
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Definitely didn’t think about the ground off the alt will be ordering some more ofc right now .Great information here as allways.Maryland showing ❤️

MadballBaby
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Yes its true it can run fine without an isolator the problem is if one of batteries go bad the good battery will slow charge it and if bad battery can't hold the charge good battery will drain all the way down then both will die it happened to me once

Grrome
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I've used an NVX 500 amp smart isolator in my three battery (parallel) suburban/200 amp alternator. The isolator crapped out after two years and I just removed it, thinking it would be OK for a while. Low and behold I developed a long crank, which progressed to a no start after about a month without the isolator. Same brand/spec batteries purchased together. The voltage always seemed to be >12.6V, but two of my batteries were profoundly dead (one being the start battery) as diagnosed with a proper battery analyzer. The normal surface voltage was coming from the one good remaining battery. So, yes you do need a battery isolator if you run a multi battery system.

bootstrapjesse
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LMFAO! .."But safety first... if you're that type of person"

dollybelfiore
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@Superior Lawn Care, agreed, now I know what I did wrong back when I was 19 and had a twin battery system, one or two crucial ideas i didn't do.

myninjakoklturbokillosis
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Using a Heavy-Duty True battery isolator provides several advantages for truck with auxiliary battery setup.

Reliable Battery Management:
Automatically ensures the starting battery is charged first, then charges the auxiliary battery, preventing the main battery from draining and ensuring reliable engine starts​ (True Battery Isolator)​​.
No Voltage Drop:
Unlike traditional diode isolators, True isolators have no voltage drop, maintaining optimal charging efficiency​ (True Battery Isolator)​.

Dual Sensing Technology:
Monitors the voltage of both batteries and engages charging for both if either battery is receiving a charge, which is particularly useful when using external chargers​ (True Battery Isolator)​.

Durable and Compact Design:
Built to withstand harsh conditions with features like waterproofing, heat resistance, and anti-vibration casing, ensuring longevity and reliability in various environments​ (True Battery Isolator)​​ (True Battery Isolator)​.

Easy Installation:
Simple three-wire installation without the need to bypass existing alternator wiring, making it user-friendly even for novice installers​ (True Battery Isolator)​.

Cost-Effective Solution:
Provides a budget-friendly way to manage dual battery setups effectively, offering long-term savings by extending battery life and preventing failures​ (True Battery Isolator)​.

Safety Features:
Includes ignition protection and operates within a wide temperature range, enhancing the safety of your vehicle’s electrical system​ (True Battery Isolator)​.

Overall, the True dual battery isolator enhances the reliability, efficiency, and longevity of a dual battery system in various applications, from trucks to boats and RVs. For more details, visit the Trueam dot com or dfna dot info website.

Cebuimage
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Everybody is different on that aspect Jacob. If you like it thats all that matters man. I just hook mine up using certain terminals that holds 0 guage cable.

bassheadsofvanwert
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This actually is helpful to me for other reasons than your intended reasons lol. Long story but THANK YOU! 👍🏼

SVMSICE
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I think the extra negatives to the alt and second battery is overkill. As long as you have the second grounded to the chassis it's fine. I love your video. Keep pounding man!

ThatChristianFamChannel
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If you have an AGM under the hood and a limitless lithium 12k in the rear, instead of an isolator can you just pull out the fuses in the back when the vehicle is sitting.

tonysoundproof
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I agree. If you don't play your system for an extended period of time you don't need an isolator.

ThatChristianFamChannel
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I really appreciate the detail you have within your vehicles. Very informative. Thanks JacobV

deedolan
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Nice video. I made sure I "PACIFICALLY" followed your exact directions. Thanks again brotha.

ltbomb
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Thank you so much this makes it so much easier. Headache gone. Thanks

olveramelinda
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On your rear battery did you run the positive side to the alternator also

kennethamerson
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Hey thank you for the helpful videos. Your always giving the best professional information.

superior
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Yes if you have a AGM up front and lithium that charges at about 15 volts then you don't want the AGM draining it while the engine is off. If you have lifep04 then you will be fine without a isolator

jbucku
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No fusing on your amp? I also don’t understand one 0 gauge power wire from the front battery/alternator (power source), and a gajillion wires to the amp? Seems like feeding a waterfall with a trickle to replenish it. I’m currently (get it? ‘Current’ly) adding a second battery (lithium) and trying to figure out the correct way to do it.

arnicus