[ Mr One ] Caught Inside Massive Waves

Показать описание

[ Mr One ]
What It's Like To Get Caught Inside A 25+ Foot Wave? This is a collection of surfers doing just that. Waves like Mavericks, Jaws and The Wedge.

Surfers in this video:

Jamie Mitchell - Caught Inside with a 50 Foot Bomb at Pe'ahi, Jaws - Maui Jan 27th 2016

Jamie O'Brien - At The WEDGE

Mark Healey - Two Wave Hold Down at Mavericks

Caught Inside is when a surfer who is paddling out is too far in, and the waves are breaking further out. It can be dangerous in a big wave surf.

The secret to surviving a huge set is: there is no secret. There are no Eastern breathing mantras that allow you to hold your breath for five minutes; there are no watermen trap doors in those swirling masses of turbulence that lead straight to the surface; there are no oxygen-giving dolphins waiting 15 feet below the surface. But this doesn't mean that your number's up if you're facing a 50-foot wall of foam. The fact is, surfers survive these situations every winter. Take it from me, who's had more than his fair share of lumps at Maverick's and had the privilege of being mowed by a huge one at Cortes Bank. And aside from needing a good set of lungs and some basic skills, there's really only one main requirement on the big-wave frontier: confidence. You need to know you can pull through in the worst possible situations. As soon as you panic, good judgment and the breath-holding capacity go out with the tide. Think about it: a long hold down is no more than 30 seconds. If you swim deep, keep your eyes open and let the turbulence have its way with you, there shouldn't be any reason why you won't come up for air, pumped for the next one.

Big wave surfing is the ultimate celebration of extreme surfing. Challenging deadly waves in harsh weather and ocean conditions takes a very serious approach.
Big wave surfers are not interested in performance. Forget perfect cutbacks, stunning floaters or breathless aerial antics. The profile of a big wave rider is the result of several unparalleled personal characteristics.

Fear is always present in a 50-foot wave. Fear is the best way of managing the risk of paddling for a huge wave face, which doesn't tell you what is going to happen and how it is going to break.

Monster waves tend to move quickly and force surfers to get away of the powerful whitewater. Big waves are lethal even for the most experienced extreme riders. The best big wave surf spots in the world have claimed several lives in the last decades.

Malik Joyeux, Sion Milosky, Moto Watanabe, Mark Foo, Donnie Solomon, Todd Chesser, Dickie Cross and Peter Davi have passed away in extreme surfing conditions. Wipeouts, severe coral reef injuries and drowning are the most common causes of death in big wave surfing.

The pioneers of big wave surfing started to eye impossible killer rides in the 1940's. In the 1960's, waves like Pipeline and Waimea increased the popularity of paddling into new wave heights. Going over the falls was the daily menu.

Laird Hamilton is the first professional big wave surfer. The waterman from Maui defies fast, hollow and high waves with a full-time training and previous preparation. Hamilton, the father of tow-in surfing, takes on the entire big wave spots of the Hawaiian Islands, in helicopter style.

Laird was born with the gene of defying danger. He designs and prepares his own surfboards and wetsuits. Wherever heavy waves break, Hamilton is there to ride them: Mavericks, Cortes Bank, Dungeons.

In 2000, Laird Hamilton surfs what is considered the heaviest wave of all time. The "Millennium Wave" was ridden in the reef of Teahupoo, in Tahiti, and set a new standard for big wave surfing.

Garrett McNamara is one of the toughest big wave challengers. After riding a spectacular 78-foot wave in Nazaré, Portugal, the Hawaiian waterman entered the Guinness World Records with the biggest wave ever surfed.

The 55 best big wave surfers of all time is an exclusive extreme surfing club. From Jaws to Mavericks, Puerto Escondido, Punta Lobos, Ghost Trees, Belharra, Shipstern Bluff and Todos Santos, Nazare. these riders have set up a new scale in the definition of giant waves. They are:

Al Mennie, Andy Irons, Anthony Tashnick, Ben Wilkinson, Bob Pike, Brock Little, Buzzy Trent, Carlos Burle, Chris Bertish, Danilo Couto, Darrick Doerner, Darryl Virostko, Dave Kalama, Dave Wassel, Eddie Aikau, Frank Solomon, Gabriel Villaran, Garrett McNamara, George Downing, Brad Gerlach, Gerry Lopez, Grant Twiggy, Baker Grant Washburn, Greg Long, Greg Noll, Ian Walsh, Jamie Sterling, Jay Moriarty, Jeff Clark, Jeff Rowley, Jose Angel, João de Macedo, Kai Barger, Keala Kennely, Ken Bradshaw, Ken Colllins, Koby Abberton, Kohl Christensen, Laird Hamilton, Laurie Towner, Mark Foo, Mark Healey, Mark Mathews, Mark Visser , Maya Gabeira, Mike Parsons, Nathan Fletcher, Pat Curren, Peter Mel, Ramon Navarro, Richie Fitzgerald, Ross Clarke-Jones, Shane Dorian, Sion Milosky, Zach Wormhoudt

Рекомендации по теме

Комментарии

I have hung from the bottom of helicopters, been skydiving, had a black bear stalk me, rode a bull, been shot at, had guns pulled on me, 2 brain surgeries and NOTHING compared to the absolute terror of being held down surfing hurricane Andrew. Wasn't even that big but I can remember hitting a point where I was making these weird grunting noises in my throat and thinking I was going to pass out. These guys are beyond brave!!! Or maybe just a little crazy.

usmcmma

So much respect towards these guys, when I get beat up by 6 foot wave I can almost drown, these are 20+ feet fat waves that can easily kill you.

DisturbiaCA

Aloha!

I Almost Drowned at MAKAHA BEACH! PIPELINE in 1973-
Due to my own ignorance of the power of the sea;
I almost drowned on Makaha pipeline beach
Where they hold surfing championships. I got caught in the sand rushing out pulling me under the first beach wave which pulled me in an undertow way out to sea.. to the Pipeline- As people just laughed!I surfaced a few times- fighting the power of the sea-each time getting the air knocked out of my lungs by huge waves as the
20 ft waves pushed me deep under and kept me under for a long time - so long - dragging me on the bottom as coral ripped my skin and bathing suit off and I’m a strong swimmer!!
I lost my breath as it kept me under beating me against the bottom for minutes. It took me under 3 times dragging me farther out to sea where the 20 foot pipeline waves were...I went under for the last time as a 20 foot wave knocked all the air from my lungs and I said “ I’m gonna die! As the monster wave took me under, I felt something yanking on my left foot and I remember thinking “This is great- I’m drowning and being eaten by a great white Shark at the same time!” As my oblivious date ignored my peril- unaware of my fight for life; suddenly I popped to the surface and a huge Hawaiian man with arms as big as both my thighs said
“You dumb Howly Bitch! What are you doing out here- you don’t know how to swim!” I clung to his massive arm thanking him, begging him “please don’t leave me-I’m so frightened”. He asked me where my date was and I told him I didn’t know- somewhere bodysurfing! The waves on the shore were breaking over 6feet High. He took me almost to the shore and then told me-“I can’t take you all the way in- my weight will crush you !- so when you feel your body hit the sand, you get up and scramble, crawl as fast as you can to get out of the water and don’t stop until you are on dry sand!”
It took what little energy I had left and as I collapsed in the hot dry sand- I only had my bikini top left and was too tired to give a shit while tourists laughed at me pulling sand over my lower body- my exposed area. I couldn’t walk for atleast an hour. I never got his name or got to thank him in a proper way and I’ve always been sad about that; because he came out there and saved my miserable life! I always include him in my prayers- signed “one greatful Dumb Howly Bitch! 😌🙏🏻☦️
That wonderful huge Hawaiian God of a hero MAN had saved my life. Sometime later my date (first and last date) showed up and asked me if I-was ok? I told him NO!
Please take he back to my hotel! I noticed his face was bloody- I asked him if he had an accident? He said: “ Yeah! That 6’8” 300 pound Hawaiian came and pulled him out of the water and kicked his Ass! Saying I had almost drowned’
I refused the McDonalds Hamburger he wanted to buy me! And never saw him again as they shipped him back to Vietnam- for another tour- hoping he survived 🇺🇸🙏🏻
To this day I still pray for My anonymous hero somewhere on North Beach on the island of Awahoo, Hawaii.
I never got his name but he’s still in my heart.❤️🙏🏻☦️
“Stay out of the Ocean on North Beach - unless you are with a Native or are a Navy Seal! 🌊🌊🌊🌊🌊
Lol 😂
Much love. ❤️🙏🏻🌊☦️

el

Imagine paddling towards a giant wave and the guy in front on a foamie launches his shortboard up in the air like a howitzer and the last thing you see is the back fin karate chopping you in the grill

lordofthefliez

Terrifying. I've had those moments when u look up and u don't know if u need to paddle away or over but u have this sinking feeling knowing that there's a chance u might drown and if u don't it's gonna suck

jasonpaz

The music is amazing! Where can I find this song?

michaelholcomb

'Ol boy at the end of this video was slammed, spent, spit out, stunned and flabbergaaaasted...😳

Gotta stay clear of those MAYTAG sessions on the inside son, lol! 🙊🤦

thespearodiver

Guy in the green finally gets to the surface n says iv have enough

wizeguy

And Im over here pooping my pants at an 8fter. Finished a day at makaha after getting caught in the inside and taking 3 waves in succession.

JRcheesburger

Healey got caught inside on the same one at Mavericks as the guy with the blue and pink board you could sea newly in the background

kandssk

I have surfed giant Waves in California and Hawaii, getting caught inside during a huge swell has always been my greatest fear, have nightmares about it.

A-FrameWedge