The Only Table Saw Blades You'll Ever Need

Here's all you need for crosscuts, rip cuts, tenon joinery and dado cuts on a table saw.

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David Picciuto
PO Box 2499
Toledo, OH 43606

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[bigpappasss]

I’m a beginner wood worker. I’m a welder by trade and Union Boilermaker so I love working with my hands. I have Diablo blades in all my saws. Ridgid 10 Saw has a 10” 90 tooth thin kerf, my Ridgid Table Saw I have a few blades. I have 2 10” 80 tooth for my ultra fine cuts on my hardwoods and then a 10” 84 tooth for cutting my laminate hardwood for my flooring. I also use an 8” Freud dado stack set. I’m very happy with all my blades so far. 🤙🏽

[num]

Thanks for sharing!

I use a Ryobi BST12S 10" portable table saw, which I picked up second-hand. It works pretty well, and has a 13A motor, so there's no lack of power for such a small saw. The table size means cutting larger stock is difficult, but I manage with smart use of horse saws, etc., and by working on my patio rather than inside the house. No vacuum or dust-collection possibility here, unless you devise a custom solution.

The main blade is just a 10" combination, generic blade which came with the saw (possibly not original, the labels are worn off, if they ever existed). It works well enough for most cuts. The carbide points are still razor sharp, which is a plus.

My dado stack is just a cheapo from Home Depot. The Avanti Pro 8" x 24 tooth dado stack. It has 2 external blades, several chippers of either 1/16" or 1/8" sizes, and various steel shims to finely tune the width of the cut. Max width of this stack is around an inch, however the arbor on my saw probably won't let me go past 1/2-5/8" or so, being as small as it is. Not bad for $45.

[karl_alan]

I use a thin kerf rip blade, a thin kerf crosscut blade, and a dado stack, all by freud. I also opted for thin kerf to be easier on the machine and less wasteful. Rather than a designated flat bottom blade, I tend to use one of the blades from the dado stack for flat bottom cuts.
I originally used the blades that came with my saw, but noticed a huge difference in my cuts when I switched up to these; much easier cutting, and much smoother finished edge.

[unbdld]

Wow... no one has ever "clearly" explained what you just did in your video. Thank you so much, now I understand the difference in blades and uses. Most discussions jump right into using terms with assumptions everyone knows what the meaning. You are a natural, i'm a subscriber and will click on your amazon purchase to help support your channel. Bravo!

[RobRobertson]

I was a bit like you David, but recently got a 20 tooth thin kerf for ripping. FANTASTIC, but then like Paul Jenkins I'm in Oz and that Aussie hardwood is challenging stuff :)

[stevecoleman]

On a Delta Contractor 1-1/2HP I use a 40T Combo Forrest most of the time, 80T Freud Panel Blade for plywood, laminates, 24T Freud Rip for thick hardwoods or flat bottom, 8" Freud Dado Stack for Dadoes, and a Freud Box Joint Blade for 1/8-1/4" flat bottom cuts.

[tipsclubs]

I'm not much of a Woodworker, but I do like to buy and restore old Table Saws, Scroll Saws and such. Bought an old 10 in Delta Table saw/motor on arbor type, for $30 to give to my son. So I had a few blades laying around that looked good. Put one on and tried to cut off some ends of 2 X 4 s to see how the blade worked. It smoked and wouldn't do a cutoff, tried another blade, same thing. So then I remembered I had a New Bosch CB 1060, put that on, Breezed right through the 2 X 4 with a nice smooth cut. I really don't like the Motor/Arbor combo, because if you burn the motor up, it cost as much to buy a motor as to buy a new T-saw. So I will write down the three different blades and give them a try. Can't afford the Rolls Royce blades, so will have to settle for the VW ones. Thanks for the great info on your video, Youtube is Wonderful, it's my "go to" for information. Keep up the Good Work, you make it easy to understand what you're talking about.

[VintageWoodWorkshop]

thanks for the info...I have a 9" craftsman saw from the 50's with a 1 HP motor so I us a thin kerf 8 1/4" Freud blade which cuts fine for most applications without bogging down. I have been thinking of investing in a good 9" flat bottom blade so this really helps...thumbs up!

[tomsdreamshopworx]

I'm a diehard Freud man myself. I am also a big fan of keeping your blades clean!

[TheWoodKnight]

Combination blades do technically rip and crosscut, but they don't excel at rip cuts. If you're on a "lower powered" saw (ie, not 3hp), I'd strongly recommend getting a thin-kerf ripping blade with ~24teeth if you're doing a big batch of ripping. I use the Freud LU87R010. I don't swap out for every cut, but when I've got batches to do, 2"+ Australian hardwoods just fly through.

I've got the 1.75hp sawstop contractor, its a night and day difference between ripping with a combo blade and rip blade in terms of speed, motor struggle, and more importantly, surface finish. The rip blade is glue ready every time, with no burning to clean up.

[tomrose]

As a new tool putz, I love these types a videos to see what kind of tools the more experienced wood workers use. And links to them are great too.

[ArtMechanicsLosAngeles]

Don't be scared to sharpen your "throw away" blades!! Those Diablo blades are sharper than factory when I get them back from my sharpener. Most folks will have a pro sharpener locally so try that instead of mailing them. I've noticed when I send my blades to a manufacturer they grind of twice as much carbide as my local guys!

12" Table saw: 12" Freud Diablo 100 tooth ATB and 12" Freud Industrial 40 tooth TCG. The Industrial line has huge carbide vs Diablo. Want Forrest but went value route.

12" and 10" Miter saw I use a mom and pop brand called W.D. Quinn. They are geared towards picture framers and are very high quality.

[dyww]

I use the Irwin Marples combination blade that has a flat top raker tooth. Also has plenty of meet on it for additional sharpening. There's a guy down the street that'll sharpen it for $12 and have it back to me on the same day. Best thing is the blade cost me $32 on the clearance rack at Lowes. Been using it for about 3 years now. Cut like a hot knife through butter.

[haakvikdalen]

I use a freud 254 mm flat grind blade for ripping, different sizes of Bosch and Dewalt blades with more teeth for crosscutting, and a CMT blade for crosscutting aluminium on my mitersaw.

[fermitupoupon]

I've got 3 blades that get swapped between machines as needed. All of my circular saws take 190x30mm blades, which is on purpose. While it limits things to some extend, it is the smallest and cheapest size in which proper pro-grade blades are available in my area.
20T rip blade, 48T 'universal' blade, and a 100T thin kerf crosscut blade.

In practice the 100T blade lives in my mitersaw, rarely does it get swapped with the 48T, and only if I need to cut either large stock or I don't want to waste my good miter blade on for example particleboard or HDF. The 20T blade for the most time sits in my table saw, and the 48T usually lives in the track saw.
As for cutting grooves, dadoes and rabets, that's what a router is for.

[mikewest]

wow man, so glad you covered the flat grind blade for box joints and tenons. I believe you are the first you tuber to cover that .. your new videos are awesome. for me its a Freud 30 tooth glue line rip, it has atb and ftg. new woodworkers check out the thin kerf Freud 50 tooth combo.

[rhshel]

I agree that Forrest is the best brand name for saw blades of any kind. I have a Forrest Blades and a Dado King and every one is worth every penny. If you want less hassel, a better cut or your using a cheap saw. A Forrest Blade will make it do its BEST. And no I don't work for Forrest but I certainly recommend them!

[christopherthiessen]

I have a 10" DeWalt table saw and I use a Freud thin kerf red blade. It works really well for ripping maple. I used that blade to make 5 toboggans. No burn marks if I used the right feed rate and smooth finish, no sanding required.
And yes keep the blades clean.

[GeraldJensen]

For most work, I use a Freud Diablo 50-tooth combo (thin kerf). If I need flat bottoms, I switch to a Freud heavy duty rip blade (full kerf). For box joints, I use a Freud box joint set. For dado work, I have a Delta 10" dado stack.

FWIW, the Freud Diablo blades are re-sharpenable. I have two of the 50-tooth combo blades, and swap them when the blade in the saw gets dull. The dull blade then goes in for sharpening (a local tool store has a 7-day return sharpening service).

[carlhansen]

Nice review. I have a 5 hp Grizzly and finally got tired of using cheaper blades. I just ordered a 40 tooth combination with a 125 kerf. As I can afford them I will be adding other blades as needed.