SAVING the RB26 from DISASTER

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DISCLAIMER:
Speed Academy videos are solely for entertainment purposes. Never perform any modifications to your vehicle that will void your warranty or in any way violate your local road going laws. We assume no liability for property damage or injury as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use the information provided at your own risk.
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We ran a stock pump for 5-6 years, developed past 750whp and ran 9 second passes.
Limiter and shock loading breaks them, even upgraded ones. Generally bad driving and tuning breaks them, but with so much of that around, its worth the upgrade.

MotiveVideo
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Today on Speed Academy, we are once again taking this engine apart. :D

Fast-is-Fun
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The pan sealants not hardening is due to aerobic need, it's like it's still in the tube so it won't harden.

Captaindan
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Oil pump blew on my RB26. New motor had billet gears and never a problem.

mcorkery
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I love how you guys are so knowledgeable and are willing to take advices as well. I love what you guys are and what you guys are doing. I don’t even have a car to modify and I’m still watching.

sattya
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It’s awesome that you guys give credit to all the other YouTubers out there!

jkflorida
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This engine is like taking care of a newborn. Team JZ for the win. Reliable power.

quinty
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Good stuff. I like the pre-testing oil and cooling system before install. A few years back I built an RB26, and found a coolant leak way back under the intake plenum that took 4 full days to access and correct after install. As for the N1 pump - I did install with new N1 crank and have no issues yet ( 3 years with revs to 8200 rpm). I have recently sold the car and the owner did blow the HKS 2530 turbo, but otherwise running strong.

Aviator-CFRN
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A fast way to chill parts is to used a dry ice bath: combine some crushed dry ice and ethanol. It'll drop the parts to the temp of the dry ice (-78C) in minutes.

jeffreymoore
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Every RB I build gets extended snout and billet gears. Nothing better than banging an RB off of limiter without worrying about it.

BrianCrofoot
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Thanks so much for showing how to pressurize cooling and oiling systems on the stand. I'm in the middle of rebuilding a long rod 306 and this had never occurred to me. The nightmare of installing the engine just to pull it for leaks, has been haunting me. The more you know, right? lol

nicholasfutrell
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I hope this build keeps going because I'm loving every minute

KShadow
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@16:40 on the radium website the instructions for these actually tell you to put them into the freezer & also to put a little oil on the surface pre-install

BjornFSE
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It’s not a bad thing that it’s stretched out to another episode, this content is what we want! Real life problems! Glad you changed the gear ⚙️ I have a stock N1 pump with approx 3k on a new build (500whp, 7800rpm limit) and no issues but want to get a billet gear in for peace of mind. Keep up the great work chaps!

utsavmamtora
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"Its giving you heartburn?" - Dave. The banter is always amazing

FirstContactX
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The risk with the O/P contraption being so bulky is that, believe it or not, it is sensitive to vibrations and in the worst case it will snap (happened to an SR20 build I worked on long time ago)
If you can I would advise to install it remotelly and/or make sure you have some dampening or bracket fabed up to reduce the risk.

y.b.-
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So glad to see you doing it right with the pump gears. Cheers boys!

Addmoreboost
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I think it's a smart move Pete, you won't regret it. If you didn't change it, you would always be worried about it failing.

Any concerns about debris in the engine after hammering in that radium fitting?

FrankKumro
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Its always good to remote the oilpressure sensor, since it doesnt like vibrations, its more crucial on the 4cylinder engines and V6

shirunai
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The grooves in the oil pan surface are for catching squeeze out and keeping it from getting into the crankcase. It is engineered with the intent of just running a bead of sealant around the outside of them and then assembling.

DanielMaddux