Lord of the Rings Lightsaber

What if the "flame" in Andúril, the Flame of the West, was a lightsaber? This is what inspired us to make a Lord of the Rings sword that looks like it could be in the Star Wars universe! (they're both epic fantasies, after all)

Links:

Anycubic Photon Mono X

Anycubic Wash & Cure Plus Machine

Andúril Lightsaber 3D files

Support our content by joining the Extra Credit Club!

How To Wrap Text in Fusion 360 using Emboss - 3D Printing Nerd

Lychee Slicer

Layer Exposure Time Validation Matrix

Tethan Props - LotR Lightsabers

Lightsaber parts:

SaberForge Veteran Kit
- Individual Components (Reference Veteran Kit)
- Electronics (Reference Veteran Kit)
- Blades (Used 37 Inch) (Reference Veteran Kit)

Smaller Speaker - Amazon

Smaller Battery - Amazon

Connector Cables - Amazon

Tools and Materials:

Bill's Shop Tools

Acryl Green Spot Putty - Amazon

Evercoat Rage Body Filler - Amazon

Aluminum Tubing - For the handle
1-1/4" OD, 0.049" Wall Thickness, 1 Foot Long
89965K551

Threaded rod 1/4" - For the guard
Local Hardware Store

Smooth-On Epoxy - Amazon

5-minute Epoxy - Amazon

"Set Screw" Grub Screw Set - Amazon

Super Glue (CA glue) - Amazon

Super Glue Accelerator - Amazon

Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Gray Primer - Amazon

Krylon Fusion All-In-One Textured Black Spray Paint

Alclad Gloss Black
Local Hobby Store (Spaz Stix sells a black base on Amazon, too)

Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome - Amazon

Tamiya Gold Leaf - Amazon

Alclad Aqua Gloss - Amazon

Fun ways to help our channel:

Share your projects with us on twitter!

Sunday by Roger Rivas
Queen of the Road by Leva
Breathe by Roman P
Bring Home The Beats by Jake Bradford-Sharp

[TheSmugglersRoom]

Fantastic project . . . and that sanding montage . . . literally laughing out loud!!!

[B_Rose]

That sanding montage was giving me Evan and Katelyn’s waiting montage vibes.

[w.d.]

Great build! The Highlander Lightsaber was my favorite, but now………..….. it’s one of my 2 favorites!

[UncleJessy]

Love love love this project! Excited to see you both jumping into some resin printing. The mono x and the wash and cure plus are fantastic!

[Bearclaw]

"it's not just good, it's good enough" 🤣 one of my favorite lines from Community!

[sjmaguirepdx]

Great build as always, Bill and Brit. Another fast way to fill resin divots left by supports and small holes, etc. is to use more resin. Brush a little on with a paintbrush and then instantly cure it with a UV flashlight. The flashlights can be found on Amazon for less than $20. Just make sure it is the right wavelength. I've even used it to build up gussets wo strengthen thin areas of prints.
Finally, one last tip. After you have washed the excess resin off in alcohol (but before curing) give the prints a bit of a soak in hot/warm water. It will soften the supports and they practically fall off the model as long as the tips aren't imbedded too far into the surface.

[matthewgresham]

Jon Snow's Longclaw would make an incredible lightsaber, or Ned Stark's Ice

[Maverickzeros]

For the supports you can use light or medium supports placed automatically and then add a few heavy for extra strength. You can use the resin itself as a filler material and cure it with a UV flashlight

[caminuscrafts.]

You guys are so great together! Thanks for the great video as always ^.^

[williamseneyjr.]

I gotta admit, the reference to Ghost was one of the most adorably wholesome things I've ever seen.

[paulpardee]

Tapping resin with a power drill?? Bill, my friend, you're a braver man than I!

Loved the Ghost reference, and the project turned out epic! Great job, guys!

[markburton]

for pits in resin, you can add just a little bit of uncured resin to the pit and then cure it. you still need to sand but that works well. you can also do that to hide seams just put some uncured resin on the seam and then cure.

[stinkyham]

A tip for printing hollow resin pieces like the handle is to place the piece more vertical not fully but about 75 degrees. Then place heavy supports at the bottom of the piece and also inside the hollow section instead of the outside so that there isn't any marks to get rid of. Works great if you want to preserve a lot of detail on the outer wall of the piece that sanding would destroy or if you're lazy like I am. It also gives you more room on the bed for other pieces but keep in mind the taller a print job is the longer it takes.

[TheIcemanModdeler]

Thanks for sharing, i use spackle paste used for drywall( the stuff that goes in between the tiles that has a consistency of toothpaste) to fill small holes, the cool thing is that it can be thinned with water and soften with water. I basically apply it over the holes, let it dry, dampen the surface with a brush then wipe away with a rag and it levels off almost perfectly, it can also be thinned before applying for very small holes and lines.

[MichaelTotin]

So great! You just convinced me of what I'm going to build my buddy for his upcoming 50th birthday.

[TheKrazyRico]

That sanding montage was hilariously unexpected! Didn’t think you two had such a great sense of humor.

[HavocHounds]

A threaded rod might actually be a good idea for simple fact that it gives more places for the glue to grab onto. So even though it wasn't intended I think it actually was the better option.

[KaypeaCreations]

Screen protector is also a must I learned the hard way 😅 I also learned about temp early and now point a tower heater directly at it I find it could also handle being warmer than recommended but not cooler least for anycubics standard resin :)

[BlueForceSabers]

Great project and watch! The saber came out awesome! Nothing like having your own custom lightsaber.

[jmorv]

The Ghost reference is hilarious. :) Great build!