Plus Size Historical Costume Tips - Help, I Don't Fit Any Patterns!

#CoCoVid #CosTube Tips and Tricks for Plus Size Historical Costuming: picking patterns, sizing up patterns, getting over the fear of making mistakes sewing. Aren't all those layers hot?

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 Patterns:

More Plus Size Costuming Advice from ClusterFrock:

Thanks to Rachael and Laurie for the questions!

[alexismontez]

I just want to say how lovely and refreshing it is to see a larger person doing historical clothing and even just being on YouTube. So often, larger people (women especially) are socially pushed into '"hiding" and discouraged from being on screen/out in public, unless they are being funny. So yeah, thank you for this video <3

[lungsnlipslockd]

I have been OBSESSED with historical fashion for years and have dreamed of making historical garments for myself to wear. But I have always told myself that I need to lose weight before I did. This year I finally said screw it...I'm sick of not doing what I want to do because I am bigger so I have finally decided to try my hand at it! Thank you for this video! And your outfits are beautiful!

[lynetteallen]

Thank you so much for posting this. Many years ago, I worked in a living history museum and dressed in period dress with corset everyday. I made a beautiful wardrobe for myself on my great great grandmothers 1904 singer treadle machine which I inherited. Flash forward 20 years to today. A decade ago, I had a double mastectomy due to breast cancer. Then menopause hit and I gained over 40 pounds. Needless to say, I no longer possess the corseted, hourglass shape depicted in all the fashionable historical clothes patterns. In my mind, my body shape has become an intimidating stumbling block to any new sewing I would do for myself. Somehow, I stumbled upon this video today. For once, I see examples of real people with larger bodies in beautiful period dress clothes. Such wonderful encouragement and simple advice on modifying the historical patterns I have. Can't thank you enough! I look forward to seeing your future projects.

[davidhutchison]

Plus sized women were around throughout history. However, just like today, the fashion plates only show petite thin waisted women. Even modern commercial patterns assume a plus sized women has a thinner waist than they actually do. My wife is plus sized, and always has to adjust the waist on any commercial pattern that she buys. She sometimes resorts to buying a pregnancy pattern, and takes the waist IN, to make a garment that fits her figure.

[kingsdaughtersmith]

AWESOME... FINALLY a plus sized video for us women who are in that catergory of bein plus-sized. I firmly believe that if one who is so plus-sized, can make herself look fantastic and shine in these costumes. Rather than, being shoved into the background and forgotten. I long to sew something that suits my 'plus-size', but found that patterns didnt fit or were the wrong size to begin with. I hope that one day, I will have the courage to make a go of sewing a costume that will look fantastic on me. Thank you so much for sharing this video. Angela, from Australia.

[courtneyperry]

I just wanted to add - as someone who is perpetually too hot - that even though you shouldn't really take away undergarments, there are a lot of ways to try to stay cool. Besides using natural fibers like cotton and linen, you can use lighter weight materials for your undergarments, make ventilated corsets/summer corsets (which have mesh panels or even cutouts to allow for even more airflow), or try using large inset (cotton) lace panels on shifts, drawers and petticoats. Be creative! I am just getting ready to try making my first ventilated corset and I'm very excited!

[redncurlybell]

Girl, I want to give you gigantic hug!! I needed to watch this so bad. I held off watching, as I was not really ready to "hear it", but man... such a great video! As a woman who was quite thin until he mid-20s, and wore historical garments regularly, as I gained, I dressed up less and less.

I remember making a Civil War dress, along with my best friend who made hers (and is quite thin, and shaped like Audrey Hepburn) and going to a ball... I took helped all the ladies do their hair and they all looked beautiful in their gowns. Me... my hair looked horrible, because I used up all the time doing their hair, and I felt like a frizzy (I have naturally very curly hair) sweaty, gigantic whale. Now they were sweet and said Iooked lovely, but down deep inside I was crushed (especially after seeing the photos). I think that was one of the last time i dressed up historically.

Now a few years later, I did loose some weight and made a corset, late 1880s bustle, and petticoat, to make a TV bustle dress, , but alas, i went to see if they fit recently, and... ha!!! No way did they fit not even close...

So... I am starting over. I am not going to try and focus on looking thinner, but to look absolutely fabulous where I am, and make the garments that make me feel like a beautiful woman, even if I am a bit squishy (or stout as the CoCoVid said women of large proportion were called historically). I will take the extra time I need to get ready to make sure I too look fabulous, rather than using up all the time to make others look great (i will help, but not let myself be last, as I did).

Thank you so much again.... im am nearly finished with the mock-up of my 18c shift, and delighted they fit (no pattern, just followed the directions on the internet on how to cut).

Well... I've babbled on... and said more than planned... but from the bottom of my heart, thank you!!

[roxannlegg]

I cried when I saw you video for the first time, and it was you who made me finally take the leap and create a youtube acct so I could subscribe. The relief i felt...esp after watching the likes of BB. Ive been doing historical costuming for 20 years, (Georgian to WW2) but could never tolerate seeing photos of myself. I want to do history bounding, but i feel so self conscious, so I wish there were more of us doing channels to help remove the stigma we feel. I wish i had your self confidence. Well done to you, and youve done more than you know for others <3

[jenniferold-dentremont]

Preach it, sister. The note about the unexpected addon expenses is so true. Extra boning, extra fabric, additional interlinings to add structure. As a lover of all things hand sewn, that point a little over half-way through stitching down a waist band is usually when the regret kicks in. But then I just try to remember that when I see others in their costumes. Because everybody has their hurdles and these happen to be mine. So I just need to be extra proud of myself when I'm able to manage getting over them. This video has definitely left me inspired to go make something extra awesome.

[awezomnezz]

Thank you so much for this! It’s so discouraging to see a pattern you like and see that the largest size is still way too small. These are great tips!

[evilempryss]

For cheap mock up fabric, go to a thrift store (especially on sale days) and buy sheets! Depending on what you're making, you may be able to use the mock up as undergarments (petticoats, corset covers, etc) so you don't waste all the time making the mock up

[kiplarson]

'We are not made of magic, we are made of practice.' -Zoe Hong I love this quote. And I loved how you liken practice about playing a musical instrument.❤❤

[kcthehermit]

Thank you so, so, so much for the list of pattern companies. That has been one of my biggest stumbling blocks stopping me from making a historical costume.

[DannyJane.]

Garment pattern drafting requires math I just can't do. I recently drafted my first corset pattern and stopped dead when I realized just how much fairly advanced math was necessary. I mean, they were talking about millimeters! Thirty-seconds of an inch!. For about a minute I was stymied. That's how long it took to pull up the calculator on my phone. Problem solved.

I feel for the ladies who think they have to wait until they've dropped to the sizes society deems "acceptable" before they can begin making themselves beautiful clothing. To this I say, "PISH!" Take a look at the surviving portraits of women throughout the ages. Hello! Plump, rounded, statuesque, and stout--we are all THERE. It's only in the 20th century that the very thin woman became stylish. Thinner women back then sewed padding into their clothes so they would look more like us! I suggest any woman who thinks she's too large for that exquisite Victorian gown to look up Princess Mary Adelaide, Duchess of Teck. The lady was THE style icon of her time and she undoubtedly was what we would call "plus sized". She proudly wears every fashion of her day and she looks GORGEOUS. I'm not reed-slender myself, and even if I were, my DDD bra size would still change my category.

Neither am I an outstanding sempstress, but I still wear my creations with pride. Each thing I make is a step forward. I've only been active in the historical costuming world (by way of Steampunk) for 9 years and don't hand me the story that you're too old to start, because you are NOT older than I am. I'm 72. If I can, you can.


So pay attention to what Rebecca says. Her advice is excellent.

[l.schweig]

Ha ha! The wrapping paper with grids is something I had never thought of. Wonderful tip! Also glad you mentioned Black Snail. I have found her PDF patterns piece together like a dream.

[christinamo]

this has been FABULOUS. thank you. I used to not wear nice clothes - modern or historical because I wanted to lose weight and then a lightbulb went off. We are worth nice things. all of us.

[doctorjrk]

Wonderful video, thank you so much. Especially grateful for the list of size inclusive patterns; I do theatrical costuming and am forever cursing the big 3 for their minimal sizing.

I hope that everything going on in the world subsides soon, but without it I don’t think I would have found all of these creators. CoCoVid was such a good idea and I’m really glad the algorithm got something right for me.

[marie-joslandry]

I laught when you said that you hated sewing as a teen, same here lol. You giving me the little push i needed to to start sewing patterns from the past. As a lacemaker I am used to the long hours of work (historically) before seeing your masterpiece . Thank you for this video, your honesty makes me want to sew, even with my plus size figure.

[GenevieveElmer]

Hey you were ahead of the times. Dior’s newest collection has a corresponding miniature garment. You made Barbie haute couture before it was cool

[lornas-w]

Isn't this great to see ? Thank you for creating this video and the examples here which will encourage so many to get over the additional challenges and fears faced everyday, and all day. Smiling that you are modelling to those who've put it off, Do The Thing and do it now !