Scratch Building 101 | The Materials: Part 3

Some of the primary materials and theory I use to scratch build scale models.
Music: Family Montage.

[Vman]

Thanks for sharing. Getting excited. I will need to make so changes because I'm building in N scale. Thanks again for sharing.

[TriGogglin]

Thanks for that, the adhesive part is my problem been experimenting with different types, so I'll try the plastructs and see what happens. Great video for people like me.

[train]

thx for great vids! i love the tamiya green bottle solvent but my old lungs cant handle the stench, but i love the little brush in the handle! so i am filling the tamiya bottle with plastruct lol

[charlie]

I scratch built a Bowstring span bridge from artists matte board using my old trammel I used when I was a Draughtsman. Plan on building more from Evergreen. Enjoy watching your videos

[williambryant]

You can buy 4'×8' sheets of styrene here in the US. Search it out on the internet because it's not available at the hobby shop. You can get it in the same thicknesses as what you get at the hobby shop. Awesome video. Stay well. -Wil 👍

[Mercatoyd]

Cuzn Vinny at BNSF... and four numbers..I forget what they are off hand.. anyway.. he swears by plastic "For Sale" signs found in home improvement stores. He says..pound for pound you can't beat the price of those signs compared to plain sheet styrene at the hobby shop.

[PeterCPRail]

I agree on the plaustruct plastic weld, I tried the Tamiya and testors variants and they are awful. The Testors doesn't have the capillary action of the plaustruct and eats through thin plastic, the Tamiya smells God awful and gives you a high.

I however use the small metal tubes of Krazy or gorilla gel CA for very small model kits and accessories such as dumpsters, power boxes, or attaching certain building details. I like the fact it doesn't run and it's easier to apply with a tooth pick or fine fuzz brush used in the dental or nail industry.

As for paper models, I have to disagree. Yes slapping on a photo paper facade on a box is a copout and not a true model.

However, there are a few masters in our hobby that have made 3d buildings fully out of a combination of cardstock, construction paper, and regular paper. That when placed side by side with a plastic build, you have a very hard time telling the difference in materials used.

I personally have started using adhesive photopaper prints only for my background. Looks far more realistic then a painted or solded sky blue one. Photoshoping one your self saves you hundreds of dollars on commercially avaliable ones. With the right foreground to background transition it all blends wonderfully and gives you immursive depth.

[ModelingSteelinHO]

Boomer. Have you tried Deluxe Materials products ? I think you'll like their product line. Preticularly the glue's . For instance, Deluxe Materials Glue n glaze for window's. Absolutely no fogging or lose of contact. Great for buildings, rolling stock, locomotives and vehicles. I use these products often.

[Espectro]

In Australia at least, those Evergreen styrene sheets are so expensive that it's probably cheaper to just buy off the shelf kits, sadly. They can cost between $20 and $30 a sheet.

[ronaldvanpinxteren]

Hi Boomer, Is Plastruct a sort of MEK which melt the plastic and create a sort of cold weld. I use scenic cement because here in the EU plastruct adhesive is not available probably due to health and safety regulations.

[LordPadriac]

That's not why museums don't want models with CA glue. The problem is CA glue offgasses for years and trapped in a display case those offgasses collect enough to deteriorate other items in the case.

[hmathewsk]

Boomer, have you ever used Sintra board for scenery or model buildings?