Kelsey Hayes ABS Module repair - Multiple vehicles!! ABS light on diagnostics-ABS pump runs non stop

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Kelsey Hayes ABS Module repair - Multiple vehicles!! ABS light on diagnostics-ABS pump runs non stop or doesn't run at all. Changed speed sensor and still have ABS light. ABS Inoperative Brake light on. C0265 code
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If you haven't done it yet get on it do it cut through that sealant it's awesome easy to repair you'll be so happy. Go for it. The video is excellent just follow him and you'll have it

patjones
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You sir, are an Effin genius!!! I followed your info exactly, and fixed my brake modual!!!! I’ve had to live with the lights on for several years, after I paid a shop to fix it, and it only lasted 6-8 months! I figured it wasn’t worth paying again- then I saw your tutorial video and said “what the hell! Nothing ventured, nothing gained!” And tried it!! Thank you from the bottom of my heart!!!
On a side note- I used a magnifying glass, AND my readers to super zoom in, and still couldn’t see any crack- but decided since I was already there- go for it! Glad I did!!!
SUBSCRIBED!!

SuperDaveD
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Thank you Kelsey. Your video had many solutions for me and your approach made it look very doable for the DIY person. I really enjoyed your approach as I was beginning to think that I would have to get professional help but I feel that my skills should allow me to attempt it myself. I therefore believe that you have achieved your objective in posting this. A BIG thank you from me mate.!!

ianmac
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I'm 77 and still learning from YouTube. Your video on the repair was clearer than some of the others I saw. Also, some channels said the problem was G110 on the frame rail behind the left front tire. On my 2000 YukonXL, there is no such ground to be cleaned. So now I have to do what you are teaching me.

docaylsw
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Thank you very much for your complete video! Others don't show the hardest part... taking off the cover! I know I destroyed the first one I attempted. After watching your video/technique I rebuilt 3 units already!

mastertech
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I knew Kelsay Hayes back when he was designing the ABS system. He started to design it after the death of his kid in a car accident. He used the old military base in Green cove springs Florida and I worked at a body shop that Kelsey Hayes took the cars and trucks to after they wrecked them

garyjohnson
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Thanks 4 unselfish tutoring. U r a good man.

bijanshahidi
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Amazing video! I'm going to be calling ya tomorrow from Houston on a 2010 Challenger ABS module to see if you will take it in for repair but ONE OF THESE DAYS I'm going to remember to try putting one of my Black RTV tubes in a container after I open it and fill that container (ziplock) with CO2 from my soda stream to see if that stops the air from curing it LOL. Amazing job sir!

AndTodaysProjectIs
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As one old-timer to another, I prefer your video of what needs to be done, I might just tackle this one myself.

doncahala
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Reminds me of when I worked as an electronic test technician back in the 80's. Most bad solder connections where caused by cold soldering in the flow soldering process. They used flux that was cleaned by water baths. It did not allow the heat penetration needed to allow the PCB board through hole to "suck up" the solder to create a true bond. To make matters worse vibration over time makes a tiny component weight fracture the solder joints. Solder is a mixture of tin and lead both a very weak bond.

shanelubarsky
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Good Video. Was relaxing to watch and loved the cat. 😊

rjlkc
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Thanks for instructions, Kelsey👍 Have a great day🎉

Starwalker_at_work
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I'd like to Thank You, for your very informative post !!!

Liketofixit
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This was just what I needed! Thanks for the explanation! I'll probably try some 99.9% isopropyl alcohol to release that gasket. I'll let you know how I get on!
The joys of non leaded solder!

AMCTechRepairs
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Thanks for the great video. I appreciate the detail provided on all tools and components to be soldered… 😊

lewchaney
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LOVE your Beautiful Cat, it sounds Hungry !

Goodshaft
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Thanks for the video, love your kitty ;-)

ryanedwardson
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Thank you so much for sharing. I'm going to give this a try on mine.

TheBeerBox
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Exactly what I needed, thank you sir!

Charlies_Pub
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My approach to repairing automotive control modules is very similar. I actually have the same model Stereo Microscope, but in white. I also have the led ring attachment light. I added two side high intensity LED lights which helps show the cracked solder joints. In terms of solder equipment, I have access to a micro-electronic soldering bench. Basically, everything except the large BGA equipment, which we job out. For example, programmable hot air stations, solder removal vacuum hand pieces, many different soldering stations, infrared preheaters, and with the except one hot air station all are made by PACE. I like the HAKKO C5O27 board holders, so I have retrofit my PACE equipment to accept HAKKO holders.

I actually specified a new Stereo Microscope setup based on MEIJI EMZ-8TR, it is very similar to the NAVY soldering school stereo microscope. This microscope is the easiest to use in terms of keeping things in focus, and how far away the workpiece is from the lens. Maybe I can purchase it this year.

The process of the repair is a little more rigorous because of the soldering approach and requirements which have to follow IPC standards. In looking at the PC board when exposed it is most likely soldered with lead-free solder, but not always. Usually, if you look closely at the joints you can tell. But, here again not always. Also, the solder work bench is ESD compliant.

For each joint repaired, I first remove the old solder with a vacuum handpiece, which if lead free will require a lot of heat, and the use of flux (usually I try RA first) tacky or liquid. I don't usually add solder to repair a joint unless I know from the OEM module supplier the type of solder used in production, and I am surprised at the adoption of lead-free solders in many of these critical subassemblies using SAC305 or other common lead free solders. So, even if I know the type of lead-free solder used, I will just remove the older solder so as to not expose the board to the higher lead-free temperatures when soldering.

Having removed the old solder I can now use the solder and flux that I feel will work best. I like to use Eutectic Tin-Lead solder, and for an ABS module RA or RMA flux. The solder wire flux should match the applied liquid or tacky flux. I have many different flux types available to me as well as solder wire and paste. On a critical unit repair, after repairing the solder joints I then clean the flux off of the PCB. If you have a camera attachment on your microscope you can take a before and after image to keep for your records. It's good to have pictures especially if you plan on talking to the OEM you now have something of value for them and they will be more helpful in supplying information. Usually, about component questions and system failure modes.

windward
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