How to Tell If Top Mounts Need Replacing

How to tell if top mounts need replacing and how to tell if top mounts are worn. Detailing some of the symptoms of bad front strut mounts.

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Whatever car you have, I recommend you fit Meyle top mounts and bearings. I’ve had several makes of top mount on three of our family cars and Meyle have definitely been the best.

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[joneslive]

You speak very clearly and comprehensively, with a solid vocabulary, refreshing!! (LOADS of youtubers stutter with "umms and half their videos!!)

[SplosionMovies]

You saved me on one car with the CV quick-boot tutorial, and another with this top mount test. Cheers!

[troy]

Lots of good stuff here. I haven't seen another youtuber cover this particular nspection. Thank you Cyd.

[gregwilldoitllc]

Useful. Going to check this tomorrow as I’ve started having a knocking.
This channel is a must follow for any Saab owner!

[gaminikathriarachchi]

Very good explanation. I was searching for months to find a good video on YouTube. This is the best I heard. Thank you 👍

[kash]

Thank you, you include all the relevant information for a novice and make things simple to understand, subscribed thanks!

[mfundodaza]

Mine is the bearing turn sound. Couldnt find the solution then your video popped up and it's been a lifesaver. Thank you.👍🏽

[Thejoker-zggk]

Nice to see you back doing some videos on the Saab 9-3 2.0T looking forward to the next instalment 👌🏻😜

[JPFORREST]

Really great information- I replaced my insignias top mounts with non GM mounts and had knocking over bumps, replaced again with GM Mounts (about £10 each extra) and no more knocks! I couldn’t believe it, but there is very slight up and down movement on the non GM bearing which was causing the noise !
Only buy OEM top mounts folks !!

[bdyt]

When working on my Saab I always go to Cyd. Thanks sir.

[JSB]

I get knocking at the front whenever I use Sachs dampers from ECP at the front - three different vehicles (Skoda, Audi, Renault). In each case the knocking started within a year or so, and not huge mileage (less than 20K IIRC). With the Renault, the damper function was also significantly impaired - on sharp turns the outer front corner dipped horribly.

I contacted Sachs and they assured me that they ECP do sell genuine Sachs parts. All the dampers were bought 2016-2020. All balljoints and bushes were fine on all three vehicles.

I switched to using KYB dampers for all vehicles and I've had no further problems, even after high mileage and rough roads - and I love the ride!!

I've also previously had no problems with OEM dampers from VW. I've had no trouble with Sachs clutches and DMFs.

Anyway, I've posted this in case it helps anyone here with knocking that's not caused by the top mount.

[avizavat]

Thanks for making this video. Now I know exactly what I need to fix on my car.

[GP-fcjv]

Thanks for the help I replaced the struts and spring and only one bearing on my wife’s 2010 Toyota Prius I’ll fix it right now

[mikaell]

Great video. I appreciate the small video clips that shows "if it does this = bad"

[gigabyte]

Nice video, was listening very closely, I have recently had both front struts replaced including coil springs and top mounts, but since my garage replaced them (I supplied the parts) It has developed a knocking noise on a certain situation only, such as manoeuvring my car out of my drive onto the road, there is a hump between my drive and road, when I reverse out and the rear wheels have gone down the other side of the hump I get a 'Clunk' sound as I turn the steering to get onto the road, now this can happen going in reverse or forward over the same small hump, but no clunks at all when driving normally, only when manoeuvring over this hump or somewhere where the same situation occurs!

Now the only thing I can assume is that when I assembled the parts to make-up the strut assembly, I decided not to torque down the centre retaining nut where the shock absorber rod goes through the top mount, so left a note with the struts to inform the mechanics that it will need to be torqued down, but I am beginning to think that maybe they've forgot to torque down the nuts and that's why it only makes a clunk when going over a hump where the rear wheels are down the hump and the front suspension is being unloaded as the rear of the car goes down causing movement at the top mount !

What do you think ? it could be something else, but it's quite a solid sounding clunk ! it's definitely from the front suspension and getting a little louder week by week ! The problem here is that I have a Volvo C70ii 2011, and the top nut is underneath a thick solid plastic cover preventing access to the centre nut to check for tightness, so was thinking of cutting a hole in the plastic cover to access the centre nut, rather than having to undo everything from underneath to get to the nut ! Any advice or ideas would be appreciated please.

[eliasstarborg]

hey! just wanna say dude keep up the great work! pls do more saab vids 😊
thx to u my 2003 93 with over 300k km on the clock is still alive! just got it thru the MOT after 2 months of trying but your vids and detailed guides i could fix most of my problems for cheap and myself!!
again! thx a lot and keep up the great work!😁

[richardlarbey]

TV quality narrative, excellent advice and explanation 👍👍

[nataliefeldman]

I really enjoyed this video, it made everything clear. I now understand what the mechanic is saying. You are really good at explaining car things . Thank you so much for the video

[TheQuickBrownFoxTV]

Most helpful video out there. Thank you. Been hunting and replacing suspension parts for years. It's very clearly the struts.

[gregorylichtenson]

Excellent...i installed a Strut assembly on my Volvo C30 Turbo..Bought TRQs..once installed the Passenger side Center bolt on top of shock moves like 1 mm or so..Defective Top Bushing even from a Brand New TRQ Strut Assembly..but i guess thats what you get for buying after market ready assemble struts..