Modern vs. Vintage Plane Irons. Head-To-Head Test!

Does a "modern" thick iron really make a difference in a hand plane?

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0:00 Intro

[AgustinnCito]

I must say the historical intro was most useful to me. Actually, the same happened to me in other videos of yours, I recall. I appreciate it!

[grumpyoldsodinacellar]

Evertime I see Rex using the hand plane, I get an overwhelming desire to go and make some shavings, its quite therapeutic, thin shavings = stress relief.

[jerrystark]

When I first started using Hock irons, which I like, I assumed the thickness of the blades was the reason I liked them and that they would solve my hand planing problems. I was just learning to use hand planes. I had a lot to learn.

With more experience, I came to the conclusion that the quality of the Hock steel is excellent, both for edge sharpening and edge retention, and I am glad I have a number of Hock blades. Nonetheless, the traditional Stanley blades work very well, just as long as they are not warped or out of square AND as long as they are kept sharp -- which will be true of ANY plane blade.

Also, with more experience using hand planes, I came to another conclusion that -- in my opinion -- blade thickness has little do do with either the common problems OR the solutions to those problems that people encounter -- that I encountered -- when using hand planes.

Most of the issues with hand planes can be resolved as follows:

(1) Learn to properly tune up and dial in a hand plane, whatever brand of plane or blade is used.
(2) Learn to initially flatten and to hand sharpen plane blades. Sharpen them frequently. Get and keep them razor sharp by stropping them. (Hand sharpening is faster and cheaper.)
(3) Develop a good, solid stance over the wood and learn to stroke the plane with a "scooping" motion using the whole body, not just the arms.
(4) Practice using the plane in various types of wood. Ease the plane blade into the wood gently by adjusting the depth of the cut. Learn to read the grain direction before you start planing and carefully observe the shavings as they come off the wood. Make adjustments in light of what the shavings indicate.
(5) Keep your plane soles lightly lubricated with wax or oil.

Did I mention keeping your plane blades sharp?

If you do each these things, then blade thickness will not matter much. If you don't do any of these things, then blade thickness will not matter at all. Guaranteed.

A tuned-up and dialed-in plane matters a ton. Blade sharpness matters a ton. Blade steel quality? Yes, it matters quite a bit, actually, and Stanley blades are made of good steel. Blades thicker than Stanley blades? Meh.

I happen to love and use old Stanley planes, especially those I have restored, but I use others, as well, including Lie Nielson, Veritas, Wood River, and Record. All are excellent planes. I treasure each one. However, if I had only my refurbished Stanley planes with their original blades, my work would not suffer one bit -- and I use hand planes a lot.

One interesting thing about Stanley Bailey #4s and #5s is that they are relatively light in weight compared to other "high end" planes, including the Stanley Bedrock planes and others built on that design. This lighter weight can make quite a positive difference when you are doing a lot of wood planing. Don't thumb your nose at a Stanley Bailey. They are effective, they are available, they are affordable AND they are beautiful. Just saying... (But I beg you not to use one with plastic knobs and totes. OMG. Don't even go there. 🙄 In any case, you an easily and enjoyably make your own knobs and totes.)

Oh, did I mention keeping your blades sharp?

One person's opinion, FWIW.

Thanks, Rex, for another good, thoughtful, and helpful video. 👍👍

[coreygrua]

When most of us were born you would quickly hear a “Whaaaa.” When Rex and his other brother Rex were born, you’d quickly hear a With great videography and great answers to Rex’s questions, one has a great way to learn with a gallon of common sense thrown in. Thanks Rex, thanks videographer, and thanks patrons.

[omardumbrell]

Thin irons were laminated too.
I own several older Stanley's and Records where you can clearly see the two different pieces of steel when you polish the bevel.
The thick, tapered irons in woodies were made that way because the taper helped wedge them in place and made adjustment easier.

[kz.irudimen]

So ... stuff that worked for decades and decades still works and a well made modern equivalent also works well. It's great that good replacements are available though, because not all old irons will be in good condition, they can be lost, etc.

[robertlunsford]

I have bought planes with almost no useable iron left and replacing it with a Hock was a good way to go for me.

[gordonpromish]

unrelated: just discovered that one of my projects got published by the company that made the feet! it appears they think that what I put their feet onto was pretty enough to help them sell more. I give you a LOT of credit for this result - your tutorials have taught me HEAPS of skills.

[MJ-nbqn]

I’m an old man and have so many planes I’ve picked over the years I’ve started giving some away. But, to me, besides a properly sharpened blade, the most important feature in a plane is a proper fitting frog, and chip breaker. That’s my 2 cents. BTW I just picked up another Stanley 9 1/2 block plane yesterday. It’s a sickness I tell you. Thanks Rex!

[mariushegli]

I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.

[SculptyWorks]

8:37 - Two Rexes? The world is not ready for that!! 😂
Excellent video and excellent advice! 👍👍 ❤❤❤

[philellis]

Many (if not most) of the pre-WW2 irons were laminated. I’ve seen several references to this, but have also recently flattened two blades, one a V-logo (1912-1918) and a current logo (1933 to present), and both had a clearly visible lamination extending about 2” up the iron. I expect they made them this way because it allowed them to heat treat the whole blade in a way that would leave the laminated piece very hard without making the rest of the iron brittle. Great video, as always.

[JtravisWoodshop]

Your mention of sharpening technology at the time having an influence on tools is very true. My grandfathers had vastly different raisings and financial blessings. On had assets to buy premium power tools while the other could only access country and hillbilly things.
BUT they both had the same sharpening technology. Grinders, files, strop, and Arkansas stone. One had a nice bench grinder. The other adapted his huge angle grinder to accept a bench grinder wheel. (Lots of blades were quickly ruined)

[handcraftedbygrbroussard]

I had now idea this was even a thing. Watching your videos and collecting, studying and using Stanley planes I’m perfectly happy with them. I’m not fixing something that’s not broken. Love your videos!

[tomjkelleher]

Great video! Buying a Hock blade to replace a damaged blade is exactly what I did a couple off years ago. Good to know I made a wise choice. 😊👍

[GCaF]

Hi Rex! I think that for the new chip-breaker that does not "tense" on the tip of the iron, if you sharpen only half an inch on the iron you are creating the gap for the shavings to jam in... If you would have sanded the whole thing (or at least a much longer than half an inch) the chip breaker would have probably sat even better and not allowed any shavings to get in. Love the video and tips!

[lweismann]

I did this with my great grandpa's old wood-bodied jack plane and am really psyched!
Now I just need to make the wedge

[rolandkuhn]

Didn't know about that bit of history about the reason Stanley blades were purposely made thin because of the difficulty sharpening in the field caused. Very interesting. Well made video Rex

[markderry]

After watching Rex’s video, and taking in the commentary, the axiom of KISS is still a good direction. For those that have the funds, and want the best or newest, then by all means go with a Hock blade, and use a Woodriver or Lee Nielsen with the newer tech iron if you have the funds.. If starting out in the wood finishing/construction trade, then rehabilitate a few Stanley planes, use a typical iron and make money the old fashioned way., and gain experience with the craft. I was a professional photographer for 35 years and worked my way up into using Hasselblad cameras as I acquired the knowledge and ability to fine tune my profession. Thanks Rex.

[Clarkson]

You should look into the cheap HSS replacement blades they sell on amazon. I bought some for less than 15 dollars, those are worth the money. Ron Hock irons are very good, key is getting them very sharp