BackYard CrankShaft Nick Repair

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Yesterday, I was knocking the pistons in on my Flathead Ford 239. I knew to put fuel line over the studs but of course I neglected that. Torquing up my rod caps and then I hit #5 and it felt odd when I'd turn the crank. I took the cap off and sure as anything I'd dinged the crankshaft with a rod stud. I put a nice gouge right around the inside of my con rod bearing. I felt like I could puke. The block, main caps, crank, and flywheel are fresh out of the machine shop. Everything else is either new or in very good shape. I'm into this thing for about $3700 USD. After the panic died down I thought about a small file to just hit the high spot but "Nah that can't be right.". I saw this video just an hour ago. I went down with points file in hand and gently worked at the dent for a few minutes until I could barely feel anything. I put the two halves of the bearing back in with assembly lube but rod and cap halves swapped so it was riding on a clean surface. That would tell me if I did it or not. I torqued the cap down and turned the crank one revolution. It was like magic. My crank, feels awesome. I pulled the cap, cleaned and inspected the bearing. No damage. Not even a scuff. I was able to order just one rod bearing yesterday but this truly saved my ass. Thank you.

heliarche
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The title says backyard. I see some stupid comments below from people who obviously didn't watch the video. As the man said, if you have the time and money take it to a machine shop. What you're missing are the effects of hydrodynamics. In an ideal engine or any rotating machinery for that matter meant to ride on an oil wedge, metal to metal contact should never happen. The low spot would be fine since it's a nick no wider than a 32nd of an inch. Considering the circumference of the journal, that's definitely less than half a degree's width and in my opinion based on facts and not my ego, it would probably last a good while. Great video.

zackthomas
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Old school knowledge that'll come in handy one day.

Xeil
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Just wanna say thanks for the great videos, I aswell as all of your subscribers appreciate the time u put into them! You remind me of an older version of myself hahah

MrBooshScadoosh
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The file is your friend!! I've fixed many cranks with one!! especially with all the crap I work on!!☺

ROADKING
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Your a wise gentleman! Thank you for good tips!

davidkepley
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its a nice fix for when you remove the wheelbearing from a hub and you damage the hub where the bearing would normally sit. If you just file it down so the new bearing can go over it then that smal dent under it wont really matter.

gabbermaikel
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Good one ! And I usually put weld on those tiny holes and polish after ... just like new .

TheZemun
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I have a rusty 1911 handgun looks just like that crank shaft, how did you remove the rust. Wondering if i could use the same method? Awsome learning video, very educational

MLGtroll
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So while I was changing my rear main seal I touched the crank with a punch. It has just a small burr in it. I reassembled and the rear main leaks worse than ever. I'm eager to try this out and see if I can make it useable again. You may have saved me a lot of headache.

Abstruseish
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I chose a cold chisel but you didn't have one of those to choose from...lol..Good vid buddy.

ziggassedup
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Nice. I have a V-6 crankshaft in the bottom of a Nissan 3.3L VG33E long block, from my 1998 Pathfinder, 166, 000 miles. Very clean and owned by an elderly couple since new. Oil pan is off. Block is sitting on its top in a tire giving me access to crank. It is a spare motor. It was having rod and/or main bearing knock. I found shavings in oil and filter. It had been oil starved from previous owner, due to a leak they didn't notice. First I had moonlighting mechanic try to refresh bearings. Nothing changed. I'm not sure he did it well. I had it pulled out and replaced with used motor. I want to restore the crank, flush motor with cheap vegetable oil and then diesel and put it back in. Any suggestions? My first time doing any motor block repair. Thanks!

thesetruths
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You turned the caps in the right direction even though that piston goes nowhere :)

PtrG
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Only use single cut file and a small fine one too with no dents.

edbrown
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very soft crank.. like a 70s low compression american. Did not know asian did that to any of their little engines. great tips. I run a little 3 main boxer, the 40 pound flywheel sings heading into winter like a wet finger on a crystal glass edge. I had no clue they made any little engine soft at all...my own attracts the damndest things being forged.

bgd
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What if the flange where the rear main seal goes has a scratch can this be done as well

Dannymclovin
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Where is the long travel suspension build at.... really miss it

Kytattoos
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I can't lie I thought you were going to use the flat 'Beatin end' of the punch and then finish it up with the Emory cloth. And then you talked about using the file on other stuff and I thought 'Dummy, you just did that today to get that lawn mower rim on the axle'

cj
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Rule # 1 when using a file or hacksaw: These tools only cut in one direction.
Why do people try to cut metal on the back stroke causing wear or damage?

RWSBrowning
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Anyone got a idea about if to use a crank that had a main bearing failure. The motor is a Gen 3 Ls 5.3 LM7. The bearing had a piece of metal that let a indentation and core marks. It's probably the size of a airgun bb or slightly smaller. Well the crank has part of this scoring on the Journal. Was wondering if anyone had a idea about what I could do or if I'm just down a crank. Thank you very much for the video.

ginjaman