Never played Warcraft 3? WATCH THIS! - WC3 - Grubby

Let's take a break on all the wacky strats and get back to basics! If you've only played against AI, or are completely new to Warcraft 3, this is the video for you!

Never played Warcraft 3? WATCH THIS! (Game played on 21-February-2023)

#Grubby #WC3

[veS_]

This beginner video quickly went from "you rally 5 peons into gold mine" into "oh, now I am gonna spread my army in two and micro accordingly, and then I will proceed to fight my opponent with heavy multitasking for another two minutes". :D

Nice game, but a true beginner probably didn't have clue what the hell was going on.

[okami]

if you're new to wc3 always remember to micro with the precision of a former world champion

[mikehoncho]

Grubby I've been watching you for years and I love your WC3 content, I've always wanted a video from you about unit counters from each race because there are no great videos on it. Keep up the good work.

[loennelu]

This was, apart from the start, pretty much the equivalence of these "painting tutorials" where it's just "you just start with this line... and then draw the rest of the horse."

[muammarrro]

Whenever i want to sleep, i really like watching your wc3 content through tv, one for the nostalgia, 2 your play is very calm and Enjoyable

[Happymouth]

Micro managing on WC3 is always so entertaining. So much is going on all the time.

[tsundude]

I feel like grubby has a folder full of pics of him from his pc that he's been using to make thumbnails of videos to this day!

[cyberneticthezero]

This is a horrible example of a beginner game or how to play wc3 I think grubby forgot to explain haha never mentioned 2nd hero or walkers 😂😂 or raiders tbh

[DaggerStyle]

A beginner would never play warcraft after watching this.

[fateunknownx]

Been spamming SC2 for a few days and I'm hooked. I was thinking of buying WC3 soon, wish me luck if I do!

[patchyourselfup]

Came here for a tutorial on how to play WC3 multiplayer, left still wondering how to play WC3 multiplayer, but am impressed and wanting to play this cool looking game

[mueezadam]

Wow! I learned a lot when you explained the motivation behind certain actions

[PeaceCrafter]

Grubby, hey! Man, you know what I'd greatly GREATLY appreciate? If you could stream a demo of your key-binds, your hotkeys, how you do control groups, inventory shortcuts and everything in-between!❤️
Anyone else would?🙂

[AEROPLN]

😊 great content indeedy! Big shouts from Bulgaria 🇧🇬 love the variety you provide and in that sense I’m looking for some human WC3 plays. Btw what an amazing nostalgia dose with this WC3 hehe. Grubby ftW!

[samuelallen]

Top 3 channel on Youtube - whatever the content - love your style. GRUB GRUB :)

[canaldofrodo]

"Its quite far from the beginner helm i must admite" LOL

[tonyveintimilla]

Grubby you are the WC3 GOAT thank you!!!

[JJEMTT]

Your map knowledge is insane. Godamn. Wish I could play like this, don't see how but might just start playing soon, I know I should just play...

[zerosandones]

how did your camera pan directly at the tauren totem on 9:51? I think your barracks, beastiary, and tauren totem is in a control group, but I'm not sure how you did that.

[petercoderch]

Grubby is right, of course(who am I to question the god/legend?), but there are some variations to this. For instance, if you got a grunt built, which you usually will against Elff, you can actually put only 6 peons on wood, since grunts don't consume wood and when you finally hit tier 2 shaman adept training is not really that espensive in terms of wood. This allowd you to dely your third burrow, and get Berserker Strenght which you need since grunts will be used up to tier 3. If you got a wyvern or raider build, which is only useful against Undead, then you actually should put 8 peons on lumber since the wqood drain is great. But I really don't recommend this unless you have Lyn's micro(hint: you don't). 7 peons on lumber is the "standard" since TFT came out in 2003. This is the ideal number for head hunter build and also to cover all your bases. Even if you are going a grunt build or wyvern build, 7 peons is the best risk/reward ratio. 6 or 8 is more dangerous because of the trade-0ffs, 6 allows you to delay your third burrow and squeeze out more units, but if the Elf surprises you with talons, you won't have wood for walkers and you absolutely need walkers. If you go 8, that speeds up your need for third burrow and makes you vulnerable to ghouls rush.
Gruby is right. For Elf, it's always 10. For UD 3 unless the UD is going TeD fiends build, in which case 4 is better. Human always goes 9 on 1 base and 11-12 on 2 bases depending on whether they are stayin on tier 2 or going tier 3. At tier 2, which they usually do against Elf and some times againt Orc, it's 11 because it means mostly an army of footmen and mass casters. If they go tier, which they always go against UD and some times against Orc when gold allows, then it's `1 because it means that they will be massing copters, which is a huge drain on wood. Most Humans also don't get masonry upgrade 3 since 200 gold is quite a lot of gold in WC3 and ijn a tight game that means an extra copter that makes all the difference in a tight fight.
"Ideally" you should creep the brown(level 2) camps straight away, or go straighty to competing camps against your opponent to stop his hero levels. This is especially true for Orc Vs Human and UD, as letting Human have economy advantsge is suicidal for Orc, and allowing DK to reach level 3 before your tier 2 is done means that your chances of winning are already down 50%. But creeping intermediate camps with a level 1 hero and 2-3 units or harrassing the creeping of your opponent with only a hero is for more advanced players, and requires a refinement and precision of micro that begginer and intermediate players lack. If you are the kind of guy that puts your entire army and heroes in a single control group and don't bother controlling the skills of your heroes, of your units and units with special skills separately and have a 90 APM, there is a very strong possibility that you will lose your entire army and heroes trying to do this. Grubby's advice on creeping green first, and getting a decently sized army before you engage with your opponent is better.
Asa begginer player, you only need to know creep routes, the 3 basic Orc builds and the timings for your heroes to hit levels. The 3 basic buids are : classic grunt build, head hunter build and straight tech to wyvern build. There are many more advanced variations of these 3, but they are all just building on those 3, . You also need to know heroes and order for matchups. Against UD, it's either BM or FS first depending on map, followed by TC and SH. Against Human, always FS first, followed by TC with SH being optional if tier 3. Against Orc, it's either FS first if going HH build, with either SH or Panda second depending if your opponet is going grunts or HH. Or tower rush with Firelord second, but this is not recommended as the micro needed is beyond what most begginers and intermediates can pull off. If going tier 3 in mirror, TC as a third hero is an option, although not needed. Againdt Elf, it's either BM or FS first, with SH always second. I could explain the reasons for why these heroes in these matchups and why in this order, but this would take too long and begginer players wouldn't understand the rteasons anyway.
If you are a semi-advanced player with an MMR of 1, 800, you can make tiny adjustments to these by your choice. But radical changes ate not recommended unless you are a World-class player with an MMR of 2, 500 or nigher. It takes lots and lots of experience, understanding of tactics on a deep level and supreme mastery of every skill of the game to innovate and pull it off. For even skilled, semi-advanced players that are at the top 1% of players trying to radically change builds, tactics and hero orders is catastrophic. Radical innovation is for true grandmasters, the elite of the elite. Unless you are Happy, Lyn, Moon or Infi, don't try to "make the game your own" because it is going to end very badly for you. WC3 is a supremely complx and intricate game and even fairly advanced players should stick to what they know, although advanced players can make some tweaks to the basics. But radical change? No, that is only for genuine grandmasters that know and understand WC3 better than a mother understands her child.