EBC Yellowstuff Pads SUCK - K20 Civic Track Car

This is an outtake from my most recent video where I swapped to PBS ProRace pads on the front, after these EBC yellowstuff pads proved to overheat fairly fast on the track. Just the usual waffle really, but may be interesting to someone out there who knows.

No sponsors, no support, just me doing my thing and filming it so when I am old and knackered I can look at some cool stuff I did once :)

[sprung]

They literally say on the website fast road use. Light track use. Youre just baiting the title to get views "They SUCK"

[thetruth]

Yes, they do, I have upgraded my daily MK9 Civic upgraded with everything EBC (300mm/280mm discs f/r) because for that car not much choice or had to convert to MK8 Type R calipers. Also replaced brake fluid for Motul. So I went on holiday and did some spirited driving on mountain road 5%, after exactly 10 corners instant brake FAIL, pedal rock hard! No warning! When I got out I could smell immediately. Overheated after 10 short powerful bursts of braking before corner. Got it on dashcam too. Weight of car was well within maximum. EBC Yellow for light track? LOL. It is junk.

[old]

Should be blues, yellow is for “light track use”

[shautohaus]

Are you running the new EBC Yellow Compound? Did you do the Fade 2 and Fade 3 bedding in procedure at the track? I just put these on my Audi S5 and they have been great on the street, but I have a track day coming up and wanted to see how they might perform.

[A.D]

If a track has say for instance more right handers your front left pads will be doing slightly more work than the right. More left handers and the right side will do more work. Or could simply be an imbalance in your calipers. What is your opinion on the yellow stuff pads now? Have you done anymore track days on them? 🤙

[מדינט]

They are very good on street use and b roads sprinted driving, but as EBC says, If we want EBC for track, and still road legal, we should use the blue stuff.

[shawnb]

Literally every single brake pad I’ve looked into has a video and someone on a forum saying they are horrible and then someone saying the complete opposite. All I wanna know is if they perform well and don’t make a lot of noise but o body can answer that question because according to everyone on the internet, all brake pads are bad. Yep, not a single brake pad exists that could even come close to being considered alright.

[Ej-enlz]

They are phenomenal on Track and I haven’t even tried the blue stuff yet. I’m running the new compound on a very heavy Tesla model 3 performance dyno’d at 515bhp with braided lines.

You must put in dot 5.1 fluid in. I am running Mich CUP2 tyres, I was a racing driver in my younger years and these are probably one of the most powerful set of brakes I’ve used on a road car. They are too powerful for the Cup 2s. So, I am gunna try the Nangkang AR1’s

Set up is key 🔑 The brakes are Brembo 4 pot calipers on Brembo discs.


However, you do have to bed them in every couple of weeks
Only time I get a small amount of fade is after about 10 laps and I always get warnings that I am pushing too hard (meaning I am a potential risk for bumping others cars).

[atlant]

So you would say they would be fine for regular daily driving on stock rotors 2017 audi A4 stock?

[Drunken_Hamster]

If you want to solve your overhead lights flickering you need to either switch your camera to PAL mode and shoot 25 or 50fps, or you need to shoot 30fps lock down your shutter speed to 1/50th of a second. If you do the latter, you might have to buy ND filters to film outdoors as the camera adjusts shutter speed as a part of auto exposure as long as you don't have shutter priority mode turned on.

However, if you want the most natural look to your footage, you absolutely SHOULD have shutter priority mode turned on, and a shutter speed setting between 1/40th and 1/60th of a second regardless of frame rate. You could technically pair 60fps with 1/100th of a second to combat the flicker, but that wouldn't be enough motion blur to look natural. Since you're in a country with 50hz power lines, you need either your frame rate OR shutter speed to match an even division of 2x that frequency to combat flicker.

Universal anti-flicker setups (if you ever find yourself filming in an NTSC/60hz country and don't want to change things every time) WITH natural motion blur are as follows:

24p 1/50th (ugliest IMO)
25p 1/40th and 1/60th (you could also run 1/30th because a little too much is better than not enough motion blur by a country mile)
30p 1/50th
50p 1/60th

[jakjak]

Sheez.. though they improved things over the years as bad reputation over forums since 20's.. i'm worried now about heavy brakes over canyons where some downhills you end up braking multiple times..

[patthonsirilim]

The truth is you can only get so much from oe clamp style braking system best to upgrade a to a bigger 2 piece brake disc with monoblock calipers.

[old]

Curious if there is any difference in run off on your rotors

[stefanwilliams]

Your caliper pistons could be a factor also