Multimeter comparison: Fluke vs Chinese

Multimeter comparison: Fluke vs Chinese



HEY YOU ABOUT TO POST SOMETHING STUPID:

One of the symptoms is that is causes fluid retention, mostly in the hands, feet/ankles, and face.

It will kill me one day. I'm doing ok right now, but someday...

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Here is all the gear I currently use:

[mrpetit]

I don't think that a Fluke (or any other safe, UL tested multimeter, like for instance Brymen (they don't HAVE to have a Fluke pricetag)) is 'just for electricians, HVAC guys etc'.
When troubleshooting/fixing a switched mode power supply (present in all computers and virtually all modern electronics) you're also often exposed to voltages well over 300V, backed up by a row of capacitors.
Cheap chinese multimeters are good if you're sure it's low voltage (<50V) stuff

[gregclare]

Thanks for the video, but unfortunately I think the title was a bit misleading. The video really only talked about Multimeter protection & safety. I was hoping to see a comparison of accuracy & reliability, between fluke and alternatives. As the majority of electronics hobbyists are working solely in the low voltage realm, this video unfortunately doesn’t answer the more commonly asked comparison questions. 🤔

[dymytryruban]

An omitted thing is EMI (electromagnetic interference) shielding on Fluke processor. It has a metal cover while cheaper Chinese hasn't. Once my father bought me Meterk digital multimeter with non-contact voltage function. I decided to use it for testing of EMI detection. A circuit housing of operational 55W compact fluorescent light was used as an EMI source. Meterk multimeter was essentially fried. Analog multimeter is unaffected.

[pcfred]

No multimeter is made out of high explosives. If it goes pop it is not going to detonate like a hand grenade. Although that big resistor in the Fluke should go bang pretty good if it ever lets go. That being said I don't care what kind of gear you have when you're working on high energy electrics you'd better be careful. It is complacency and relying too heavily on "safety" devices that ends up getting people hurt, or worse. Just because you're using a Fluke meter doesn't mean you're safe.

[TheDigitalAura]

This is why I use a Fluke 289. Fluke also have the best range switches in the industry.

[jamesbrill]

If it works, it's a Fluke! Actually, when Fluke was under the Danaher umbrella, a large portion of the Bill of Materials had to be sourced from an LCR (low cost region). Weather it made sense or not. So don't be thinking that because they are assembled in Everett Washington that they are American made. Every piece of plastic and probably all of the passive components are from 3rd world sources.

[aetpagwtom]

enjoy the snow
i bt my Fluke 77 in 1990, still works a treat, ..73s mate, happy holidays A92GW

[eddycuypers]

Nor really Chinese but Taiwanese, How about Brymen? Looked at the 869. Same fuses as Fluke. I saw a serious over voltage test once, between on a Fluke and a Brymen. The Fluke didn't survive, the Brymen did.

[robc]

The Aneng 870 is a really nice bench meter for the money. I have a Fluke 12E and a couple of 101's for high voltage/high energy work.

[d...c...]

“This shield is for nothing other than to protect you.” I disagree. There is a reason why that polymer is somewhat conductive. There is an EMI function that the shield serves, as far as I’m aware.

[audiocrush]

Oh and also the bussman fuses also have a rated rupture current so you pretty much know for sure under which conditions they are going to explode (which should be aroudn 80.000 Amps or so) the yandingdongs fuses should explode much much earlier, probably 10kA or less

[derektodd]

Totally agree Paul, I have the 87V supplied by work but love my collection of Uni-T's and other meters. Best wishes from Northern Ireland.

[joerogers]

My anut and uncle used to live in Toronto, Ohio. Before the day of zipcodes people would address a letter with Toronto, O meaning Ohio. The mail would first go to Canada and then be sent back to the USA

[tomgeorge]

Thanks for the video.
I agree about the type of meter for the type of usage.
These days, even the cheapest DMMs have a decent spec and can hold that spec over time.
At my workplace, we do DMM yearly compliance checks, using an Australian calibrated 20yo HP desk DMM, it has passed and kept cal for all that time.
The DMMs that we get to check specs on, are a wide and varied bunch, these are for commercial/industrial use.
Most are Fluke with some up market Chinese/Taiwanese models.
Most of the time with Fluke, we are wasting our time checking specs because they stay well within tolerance.
Leads are probably the weak link, but that is the case for all DMMs in harsh commercial/industrial environment.
I have recently had an AC current loop device that uses the "Rogowski principle".
It is a very interesting AC current sensing device, the loop can be opened and placed around some very serious diameter conductors.
If you google "ACP3 Series Flexible 3000Aac Current Probes" you should find some products using this principle.

[hsnhbo]

Thanks for making this video. I appreciate it. It help me to decide what to buy for multitester.

[MrFrazierNation]

This is one of the best multimeter videos you've ever done, Uncle Paul

[jee]

I agree that the best DVMs are Fluke.
A word about or two about Terminology:
You used the word "shield" when referring to a plastic enclosure. When discussing electronics, the term "shield" has a different meaning such as a faraday cage.
Also, both DVMs are double sided. That means that the PCB has copper on both the top and the bottom layer. I couldn't tell from the video whether or not there were any internal layers.

[dogwalker]

I know it will be un popular but I have had problems with Fluke when working with fluctuating analogue signals the fluke was too slow, the quality is fine but with the exchange rate they are bloody expensive.

[whitehoose]

For me the acid test isn't accuracy - the cheapest chinesium meters these days are ridiculously accurate and have more functions on the dial than any lab in the 70s could afford thanks to that black featureless cowpat perched in the corner of the PCB.


The clincher is the quality of the switches and connectors - you can see the fluke is using good quality parts (not as good as they used to - but still better than many) while the chinesium one uses open tracks and wipers printed on the PCB and tubes made from old tincans to take the leads.


I've used an alternative brand for many years - partly out of badness - partly because I actually prefer what I use. Something that's very apparent though is if you want to work in the industry - you pretty much have to carry a fluke .... and be seen carrying it. When I worked for the phone company we had every tool and meter known to science and we all used the same brand and version of everything and I stuck with the brands I was used to. For the home hobbyist - It's already been said - stick to less than 50v and low currents. and beware the Lilon battery (I don't mind admitting they frighten me).


If you want to dabble with home electrics (240v in Europe) invest in a contactless tester like the UNI-t and a remote voltage detector - then switch off and isolate before you go further - if you have low resistance you have continuity - you don't need to see the pixies running down the pipe.
You can prove most faults with a testlamp and a couple of alligator clips to loop wires and a little logic - don't get bogged down with details You only need an indicator for 99% of tasks, avoid current measurements. and you'll be ok. If (when) you need more - you need to dig deep and buy quality.

[bhoot]

Very good video. Unlike other YouTube videos where they are badmouthing cheap meters while the price difference is just so huge