Making a Black Panther Helmet | 3D Printed Cosplay Mask |

Welcome everyone to my Black Panther Helmet tutorial! In this video I'll be covering the steps I took in making my own Black Panther Helmet!

I'll not only be showing tips and tricks for the model I made but a variety of tips to use across different Black Panther Helmets AND other Cosplay mask!

Even if you aren't making this mask, I promise this video holds tons of info on Sanding/Priming high detail prints, Painting tricks, and other information on building cosplay helmets!

Enjoy the video!

▼ IN THIS VIDEO


▼ SHOP MY CUSTOM BUILDS!

▼ SOCIAL MEDIA / CONTACT

▼ SUPPORT THE CHANNEL!

▼AFFILIATE AND DISCOUNT CODES!

☞ Visit Creality for my favorite FDM 3D printers, from entry
level to advanced!

☞ Visit EPAX 3D for my favorite resin 3D printers!
Use code “franklybuilt” for 10% off of E10 Series Resin Printer

☞ Use Code “FBT20” at checkout for 20% off awesome
3D models and files!

☞ Visit my Amazon Store Front and explore my favorite printers,
filaments, build supplies and more!

☞ Use Code “VQLDTFWBMQ” at checkout for 10% off filament!


▼TIME STAMPS
0:00 - Intro
2:02 - 3D Files Overview
3:38 - Let People Enjoy Things
04:43 - 3D Printing Tip & Tricks
10:30 - Foam, Straps & Comfort
13:27 - Sanding & Priming DETAILED Prints
15:05 - Preserving & Saving Details
17:43 - Masking & Taping
21:42 - Painting Tips & Tricks
24:35 - Extra Details (Oops)
25:46 - Lens (Eyes)
26:14 - SPECIAL GUEST APPERANCE!?
27:38 - Closing Thoughts
28:45 - Bloopers

Disclaimer- This video is NOT sponsored by any of the brands mentioned above or throughout this video. Honesty is very important to me and my channel- all thoughts and opinions mentioned are my own. The links provided above are affiliate links. Affiliate links allow me to make a small commission from purchases made on my recommendations, with no additional cost to the customer!
Thank you for supporting me!

#blackpanther #blackpantherwakandaforever #Marvel

[jonathonantonio]

Just wanted to say thank you for all the videos you’ve done! I did some 3D printing in high school but I was never really taught much of the technical stuff. Recently I had an itch to print and make things again and came across your channel while researching. Because of your videos I snaked a CR10s Pro V2 during the Black Friday sales and I’ve been having an absolute blast with it! Because of your videos, the most trouble I’ve had so far is attaching the filament holder lol. I’ve learnt so much from you and I guarantee that my nozzle head would still be loose out of the box without you! So thank you so much for doing what you do and sharing your knowledge with us all!! I’ve designed and printed Lego Skyrim pieces (they aren’t great quality lol), a couple statues, atm I’m making a Bulbasaur pot plant for my partner for Christmas and soon I’ll try a Mandalorian Helmet. I wouldn’t be where I am without you and this amazing community so thank you so much!

[kellyjean]

Frank, thank you for being so positive and encouraging 3:39. Your videos are full great advice, entertainment and humour (end of video out take 😂)
I have the sovol sv01 pro. I’m only about a month into my 3d printing journey and I am loving it.
Wishing you and your family happy holidays

[mastalock]

Was watching this video and went to look for this "Panel scriber" As I've been struggling trying to find a way into those details (mostly to sand them, but). There's a video of this guy, he cuts the top off a pin and puts it in a mechanical pencil. GENIUS! Great because with those things you can set the depth, and the bottom edge of the pencil case will act like a guide on the surface!

[gran]

Love the two tone paint job! Great work Frankly Built!

[darthslagle]

So I wanted to offer some advice for adhesion of paints, primers, and putty/body filler. There are a few primers that the manufacturer claims will adhere to "raw plastics." However, there have to be certain chemicals in that primer for that to actually happen. If you want to make absolutely sure that your materials are adhered to your project, you really need to use an adhesion promoter. After sanding your project, clean it, and then tack all the dust off, spray the adhesion promoter on per manufacturer recommendations. Then you can apply your primer. It's also not recommended to put puddy, filler, "Bondo" type materials on raw plastic. It does not adhere to raw plastic. It will eventually come off. So the steps should be, prep plastic, apply adhesion promoter, apply primer, sand primer, (not all the way back down to the plastic, your only creating sand scratches for any putty work to adhere to), do putty/filler work, re-prime, sand again, if everything looks good you may be able to finish sand and paint, but if not, prime again, finish sand, and then paint. You have to understand that your first prime is what is holding everything to the project. Now, with all that said, I feel I should explain that there are 2 types of adhesion in painting. 1)- mechanical adhesion. This means sand scratches that paint flows down into, gripping the scratches for adhesion. (2)- chemical adhesion. This is where a chemical (adhesion promoter) is applied to create adhesion. Adhesion promoter works by making the pores in the plastic swell when it is applied. You then spray your primer on. While the primer is wet, it flows into the opened pores. When the adhesion promoter is dissipated, the pores close back up, holding the primer to the plastic. These are the only 2 ways to create true adhesion to plastics and urethane materials. This isn't a comment for any other reason than to help the modeling/printing community. And, in case anyone questions this advice, you can do your homework yourself. I worked as an automotive refinish specialist/tech for 25 years, and now own and operate my own facility. We have done multiple paint jobs for high level cosplay clients, including members of large cosplay clubs for Star Wars groups. We have done multiple Vader suits, Mando, Boba, probably close to 100 Storm Troopers, Transformers, ect... Years ago, lots of this stuff was done with fiberglass, but since printing came out, everything changed. So take this info and pass it around to everyone you can. Pass it to Frank as well. He probably already knows, but maybe not. Happy building, everyone, and MTFBWY...Always
Edit: the reason his paint lifted is because the flat black he used is an enamel product and the clear coat is a lacquer. These paint have a chemical reaction and shouldn't be used together. Always research your materials to be sure they are compatible. Just because it's in a rattle can, doesn't mean it's compatible. There are waterborne, enamel, lacquer, and urethane based products all in rattle can. Do your research.

[videopolice]

You could not imagine how hype I am for your White Ranger dude.
Happy holidays.

[Gomeyy]

Been looking forward to a video like this just for working around high detail items not even just helmets, thanks frank 🎉

[vinyltheworld]

You should Absolutely talk more about the panel scriber tool it has saved me countlessly times and more people need these^_^

[Epyon]

I did the Do3D helmet pretty much the same settings you had but a little more sitting up for the orientation. I blocked out the gigantic center support and just added extra around the perimeter. Came out flawless and looking so good for fdm.

In the process of finishing up the painting was hoping to have it done by time the movie came out but that didn’t happen.

[Hilal_h]

The intro is super cool just like the edits

[oneredex]

Hey Frank, you mention the CR-10s Pro V2, which I have, and I was wondering if you have a fix for getting the "x" axis gantry to stay level during a print and not be "weighted down", if you will, on the left side where the extruder is mounted?

[TheOneAndOnlyDOC]

I'm working on a Shoretrooper right now with my printers, and finally found some in stock dupli-color filler primer and can't wait to use it! Was using the Krylon filler primer and really enjoyed it so this will be a nice new adventure.

[-AT-WALKER]

The BP mask is a time eater, great breakdown of the process and I for one feel your pain with the masking.

The little eye inserts (think they came with the free file) are great for displaying the mask but not so cosplay friendly - thanks for sharing your approach and the panel scribe tool tip!

[mavemaggulle]

loved the video ! Loved the talking too. So much useful advice... Thanks for making those videos dude !! You got me into this beautiful world of creation

[GG-bricks]

Thanks so much Frank! I'm almost done making mine and your tips have been very useful. Something I realised was that using old tinted sunglasses hot glued in gave me that nice reflective look and are perfect for looking out of

[TwoToasty]

Great job I know it took you so long to do this since before you moved seeing it in the background of past videos. And the detail is amazing!!!

[MihaiDobrin]

i wouldn't think about painting first one or the other but now watching your video i think it makes sense that mate one should be first since a glossy surface wont be the best for things to stick to it while the mate one is more porous so whatever you apply on top of it should have a much better grip

[dumsumable]

I got a 3d printer for christmas (small one that does 6x6 only) but it's a started. Your channel has cleared up a lot of questions I've had. Thank you for all your videos and tips.

[JonathanCase]

It's so nice to see I'm not the only one who STRUGGLED with the silver

[kylejobs]

That helmet is Amazing job. Keep it up love the video