The Hidden Story of Mallory & Irvine's Route on Everest

Which route did George Mallory and Sandy Irvine take on their fateful summit attempt on 8 June 1924? Did they take the ridge route via the Second Step, or did they repeat Norton's unsuccessful attempt of the couloir route?

The greatest of respect to those who research the topic and to those who disagree, I love to hear your thoughts and always willing to be convinced otherwise in a civil discourse of this fascinating topic. Cheers, -Thom

WHAT DO YOU THINK HAPPENED?

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[lumberlikwidator]

Jake Norton played around at 28, 000 feet. I just love this shit.

I live about one hundred feet above sea level. Anything above that is my personal Death Zone.

[dkeener]

I believe Messner traversed the couloir much lower than the hypothesized "zig-zag" route and there was minimal visibility that day (as seen on his summit photo) so I'm not certain how thoroughly he would have assessed the possible route. It would be terrific to see an expedition try to explore that area under similar snow conditions and assess possible routes and maybe even climb out through the zig-zag. I wonder if one reason it hasn't happened is that it would be an even more dangerous place to be than usual with a bunch of climbers overhead on the ridge.

[GeographyCzar]

We're all trying to answer this backwards; the first question to ask is not, "could they have summited via the Couloir?" The first question to ask is, "what factors would have gone into Mallory choosing his route in 1924?" Every data point that goes into answering that question must come from no later than June 8, 1924. Since Norton believed the mountain could be summited by a route he saw from his highest point, I find no reason for Mallory to deviate from Norton's route before the point at which he believed he could improve upon it. Why would that point have come before the Couloir?

[elguapo]

I am a fan of both your channel and Michael Tracy's! Both channels are valuable resource for this Mallory Mystery!

[vernonlemoignan]

I’ve dabbled into this mystery in a peripheral way for a long time, but a week ago really dove deep into it. Now it’s obsession.

It is such a compelling mystery with just enough data to keep me hooked and so many possibilities and unknowns to frustrate finding the truth. It all hinges on Odell’s observation, and i don’t believe he saw them on the first step. I can’t imagine him confusing it with higher on the mountain, especially since he could see the summit pyramid. If they made it over the second step there was little in the way of terrain to stop them from reaching the summit. I think he saw them at the third step because he described snow there and they were visible against the snow and then in silhouette on the ridge of the third step. However it had to be at least the second as I just don’t see how he could see them in the first and describe as being so close to pyramid as to be going for the summit.

It is amazing to see so many great minds in the world of mountaineering debating this mystery in such an honest way. Every one has opinions and strives to back up their theories while respecting other peoples theories.

I hope one day we can climb this mountain of a mystery and reach its summit. I hope they made it, but if they didn’t, my respect for them would not be diminished.

[TheSaxon.]

With Regards to Norton in 24, the guys from 33 and Messner in 80. All of these climbs to the Couloir were done without oxygen.
It's hypothetical but if Mallory and Irvine's oxygen was performing as desired, they should've been in a better state than all these men and able to think, analyse and perform better, once at the Couloir.
I would suggest that Mallory's desire may have also have surpassed these other men due to his circumstances but that is just speculation.
There's also no evidence (that i'm aware of) that Mallory ever had any intention of attempting the 2nd step, so i tend to favour the Couloir route, given Norton's success without oxygen just days before.
Thanks for the content.

[leeseaman]

A great discussion and meeting of minds. It's interesting how the idiom "opening up a can of worms" is used regarding the number of possibilities that have seemed to have increased about how Mallory and Irvine could have reached the summit. However, I wouldn't see it as "opening up a can of worms" as such, but rather "going further down that rabbit hole" as the complexity of this discussion makes this mystery even more surreal. Jake Norton's impression of Reinhold Messner is remarkable by the way!

[raginaldmars]

... as a German Biologist - this story is addictive - from the moment I saw the picture of Mallory lying down in a sort of “Crucifixion” pose. The remarks of Irvine about his condition - damages from high altitude, radiation, exhaustion. The super human work they were doing in relentless efforts of climbing. No rest, no regeneration. What was the physiological condition that Morning, when they got up - in disarray, what did they prepare for the climb? 8 hours or more of exhausting work - what were the resources - Water? Food? I am certain the goal was to reach the summit at all cost. Trying to find a Route that demanded still the least exhaustion possible. The turning back point must have been the Summit - not one Inch earlier. How did Irvine perform? To me- this is the crucial question leading to the “Crucifixion” event. The condition of the broken Ropes on Mallory. Did the ends point DOWN??? Was it Mallory on top - asking Irvine to get down as fast as possible - a short cut through the Yellow Band... Irvine too exhausted to go on... then Irvine slipped down, dragging Mallory to his final position - when he broke his leg in a sudden STOP on a Rock - the ropes broke - and Irvine fell over the Cliff. In my view - Irvine fell down and may never be found...
Both must have been totally depleted and exhausted - a last attempt to make it back as FAST as possible. Study the ROPES ! That is the final clue to the puzzle...
How can the Boot and Sock can come off - all by itself? Were the clothes of his back cut and torn off by the first discoverer... A Crime scene to inspect... addicting stuff

[jdw]

Great video and thanks for posting. A couple of things - I think most of the "new evidence" that is mentioned has actually been available for a long time, such as the note from Mallory to John Noel. Also, I believe that Edward Norton turned around because of the time restraints, see Chapter 5, The Fight for Everest 1924. He notes that the going wasn't exactly difficult but, was dangerous for a solo climber. There was about 200 feet more of the terrain he was on before he reached what he describes as safety. Hence, from the description in the book, I think that it is fair to say that the Norton route would have been a viable route for Mallory, who was a superior climber to Norton. It is also worth noting that Norton set a height record without oxygen that was not broken until 1978 by Messner and Habeler and a solo height record without oxygen that was not broken until Messner in 1980, who coincidentally, pretty much went up the same route. Clearly, they were rock hard back in 1924! The Norton Couloir has been successfully snowboarded in descent as well, by an incredibly gifted young Frenchman.

[lescook]

It's a shame that all parties interested in solving this mystery can't put aside their differences, their personal ambitions and try to communicate with each other to help possibly find the truth.
But being human, personal beliefs, desires and ambitions often interfere, usually without our realizing it's happening.
I do appreciate all the efforts that are being expended and the discourse on what happened.

[teresacorrigan]

🇨🇦civility is something we used to take for granted when we spoke face to face. Person to person. Your reputation rested on how you spoke. Well spoken was a high compliment. Let’s get back there. Love this mystery new to me. Thank you for sharing. 🌞✨

[robbieflub]

Thank you for your work bringing this resource together & getting fascinating contributors to share their insight. I'm no climber but I can't put this mystery down.

[glenbetton]

At 13:05 I think this is key. Do we believe Odell ? The poor guy had spent a day at high camp looking for his colleagues and his protege, sure in the knowledge they had been lost to the mountain. He must have been mentally distraught. In the context of the overwhelming public interest at the time and the ongoing desire for glorious conquest through the efforts of Empire, perhaps he felt the need to paint the picture in his mind's eye of a glorious final push to the summit, which was cruelly curtailed by the revenge of the mountain, without the certain confirmation (or rejection) of the knowledge of final success. Hence his story became the story he wanted the wider public to hear. Only in subsequent years as more evidence was unearthed through research do we realize the details of the story were simply not possible but perhaps the understandable fabrications of his mind's eye. The fact that Odell varied details of his account in later years adds weight to the basis that perhaps the original story was based more on perceived image than factually observed reality. I don't think any less Of Odell, I would imagine in his shoes most of us would have done the same.

[ashokjha]

The very first thing I do even before I start watching your videos, is I press the like button. You are so amazing Sir. Your explanations are so crystal clear and to the point..
Thank you so much for your efforts..😊

[brt-jnkg]

As someone who has become obsessed with Everest in the last couple of years I can see how this can consume someone. I'm a 9th generation Texan. The people who climb mountains we don't even have hills here but I would love to go to Basecamp on Everest that's as far up as I care to go.

[wanakinp]

Always great to get multiple opinions on this topic. Great video.

[Chris-CardVault]

Thom, you are a beast! Excellent job! Thank You!

[phillgornall]

It seems weird to not go the Norton route after the relative success without oxygen.

Taking an entirely untried route seems like a sloppy strategy. Unless Norton and Somerville told them it was impossible and they need to try another route entirely.

[obifuntoknowme]

Another extremely interesting video Thom, many thanks. M&I taking the Couloir route is a fascinating concept isn’t it and, as you say, someone definitely needs to go there and check it out. It’s all very well Messner slamming the idea of this route but, until we get boots on the ground we won’t know anything definitively. Who knows, the Couloir may hold the last piece of the puzzle that we all want and need. Regards from Hereford, UK.