Elegoo Saturn 4 Vs Anycubic M7 Pro - Isn't it ALREADY OBVIOUS?

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Chapters
0:00 Introduction and Overview
0:29 Initial Impressions of the Saturn 4
0:44 Design and Build Quality
1:02 Comparison to the Saturn 4 Ultra
1:28 Style and Design
2:03 External Features
2:59 Build Volume
3:34 Build Plate and Pressure Detection
4:58 Build Plate Surface and Temperature Tips
6:15 Build Plate Gap
6:56 Resin Vat
08:21 New UI
9:30 Print Quality and Print Examples
10:35 Conclusions
11:23 Overall Recommendations and Pricing
12:04 Conclusion and Channel Support

[chrismatney]

If you are considering an S4U for your first resin printer, don't think just buy it. I was afraid of the learning curve of resin printers, but the S4U is so simple, it was hard to mess up. Right out of the box it printed like a dream. Other than a few software crashes caused by Chitumanager I hadn't had a single failed print until the FEP started to go last week, and it has been running almost non stop for a few months. I can say without a doubt it has been one of my best hobby purchases ever.

[ramblingbadger]

Have to agree that the thought of resin getting under the vat on my S4U is scary but hasn't happened yet and I am really clumsy. The plastic bib is really naff but does seem to work... pretty sure it will crack at some point though. Also, many thanks for continuing to wear clothes during your time lapse shots.

[Mehrdad.Haghighi]

I love the Saturn 4 Ultra. Quick tip, if you are printing moulds with square corners, turn the model by 45 degrees to decrease the pulling force even more and use the high speed without any print speed or quality.

[scottg]

I recently purchased the M7 Pro. I chose the M7 primarily because of the heater/circulator. Also, cleaning the Saturn build plate was something I didn’t want to deal with and concern about resin getting into the tilt mechanism. My first print with the M7 was the was the RERF calibration with Anycubic ABS-like PRO 2 with default settings with temperature around 24 C. For any who don’t know, this prints 8 separate models numbered 1 through 8, starting from a base exposure time increasing in .25 second increments. 3 of the 8 models failed to adhere to the build plate. These corresponded to numbers 4, 6 and 8. The others (1, 2, 3, 5, 7) were acceptable. These corresponded to the right side of the plate closest to the machine which appeared to be a bed leveling problem so I went about leveling the bed. The guide that comes in the box did not have leveling instructions for some reason. I did find instructions on the usb drive, the anycubic wiki, and a video on Anycubic YouTube. Problem was the instructions were slightly different on each source. For example, in the video, after the steps where the plate is homed and lowered one millimeter, text appears in the video with a ‘tip’ advising to ‘lock the screws’. This does not appear in the M7 PDF manual or the M7 Anycubic wiki leveling guides. The video, which otherwise demonstrates every other step in the leveling process, does absolutely nothing I can associate with the ‘lock the screws’ tip. Later, toward the end of the video, there is s the instruction to ‘tighten the screws’ which doesn’t make sense if you had ‘locked’ them previously. After several attempts following various permutations of the instructions, I finally got a ‘complete’ level test, which I assumed to mean the leveling had been successful. I should have run the RERF again (live and learn) but instead set up a longer overnight print using over 400ml of resin which also failed to adhere to the right side of the build plate closest to the machine. The print did complete but because the right side of it was hanging off the build plate, it was warped and unusable. Following this, I thoroughly scrubbed the build plate in case I had missed any residue from manufacturing, more obsessively went through the leveling process again and increased the bottom layer exposure from 25 seconds to 40 seconds. Since then, things have been working working great, however since several things were done at the same time to resolve the issue, I’m not sure what the original problem was. I’d be interested in knowing anyone else’s experience.

[Pisaebbasta]

It s something like a year that i m in the world of 3d resin printing. i started 2 years ago studying over and over all the reviews video so many times that when i finally bought my first printer (elegoo saturn 8k) i was more skilled then people i met while i was looking for a second hand one.
For all the beginners falling in the same loop: you have to try and see to learn.
I made a lot of mistakes, i spent a lot of money in resins, wash and cure etc...
You doesn't need the better printer on the market in quality because when you'll learn it wont be anymore. So go cheaper and improove.
All you need is patience, a lot of patience, a lot of space and a lot of time.
I can finally say that, after a year using the saturn 8k, my new saturn 4 ultra is another world.
it s really really simple to use;
'Cheap';
Fast;
and it has a small risk of fail.

I think it s all you need to start other than FauxHammer videos ;)

[sxtygoats]

I use a self built chamber heater on an M5. It works very well. I use it for Sculp Pro ceramic resin at 30C. Raise the bed the top. Put the bottle of resin on the printer, start the heater and close the lid. Let it run for 20 min or so to heat the bottle. Shake the bottle a lot (ceramic). install the vat, fill and print.

[Togen]

This was a video i was waiting on then i got a GK2 for 500 quid and have never looked back. The GK2 has been amazing! The heater has made allowed me to make my prints quicker, arguably cleaner all with less failures

[theHadmir]

I am loving my Saturn 4 Ultra. the tilting vat is something every company should consider, reducing those peeling forces is huge, I have had only one print failure and it was my fault when doing the supports. (didn't use enough and the print pulled off the supports).

One thing I would say about it, though it is more to do with their sold separately heater, is that it needs a different way to attach it. attaching to the vent hole with a plate doesn't work if you want to run an exhaust hose to it. I have the heater 2-side taped to the back above the camera which blocks one of the intake vents on the heater (also upside down). not exactly a perfect solution. it's summer here right now so it's not a huge issue, but living in Canada, that chamber heater is going to be put to the test come winter.

[walltar]

My Saturn 4 Ultra arrived just Yesterday... Thank you for all your videos about it.

[GeekDetour]

7:29 that’s me again! Thanks for mentioning my video once more - Ross, you are the guy! ❤

[Gregatron]

The Saturn 4 Ultra had me at the tilting vat with fewer settings. I'm looking forward to the simpler slicing process.

[vizionct]

I’m totally happy with my sat4 ultra. Granted I live in SoCal warmer weather so no need for heater. I’ve yet to have and print fails or even issues with vat spout spilling resin. Best printer investment I’ve made! Fauxhammer you make the best reviews! Keep it up!

[MasterMaceMichu]

I don't even WANT to buy a Resin printer, but somehow I MUST watch all your ;) Keep it up, loving your style and sense of humor!

[RaikenXion]

Really liked your review comparison, straight to the point and detailed, too. 12:21, the ads kicked in just as you were about to say that B-world 😅

[WireHedd]

Too late for me cuz I already ordered the S4U but the video is still a great comparison. Well Done Ross, thanks.
Madness is the gift that's been given to me.

[SeriesDmusic]

The heated VAT has worked fine for me. I’ve honestly not had any issues and the m7 pro has been great to me.

[anthonylong]

I have a Mars 5 Ultra and I added the Elegoo mini heater. It works fantastic. (Its also a filter btw) My printer is directly in front of an open window and the temps outside this week have gotten down to 40f and yet my resin still feels warm as well as the entire inside of the printer. The seal around the edge of the top does hold the heat in. I simply "pre heat" the chamber for 5 minutes before printing....No issues

[bryanlaunier]

I have a S4U and live in Canada, my printer lives in a detached garage and the little heat actual works very well. Current temperature outside -27C, temp in garage 10C, temp of resin 23C.

[Immolate]

For those of us in milder climes, the heated vat system is a bunch of points of failure and a major PITA for little benefit. For those of you in the chill zone, the benefit might be better, but I think you'd get by with a small space heater inside the lid. You don't need hot resin. You need not-cold resin, and that's not that great a challenge. For that matter, someone should put together a build using a small heated bed made for FDM printers to mount on the lid along with a small power supply outside. Super cheap from Ali Express.

[elexis]

Hi FauxHammer, I love your videos and the Saturn 4 Ultra is a really appealing machine with the highlight being the reduced settings complexity. I live in Victoria, Australia and would be putting this machine in an uninsulated garage. It is consistently well below 20c here for 6 months of the year though. I would love to see some discussion about heating solutions and how effective they are, particularly things like that greenhouse-like enclosure you mentioned and just how useful that is vs shelling out for a more expensive device with proper heating. (the GK series seems to have a massive austalia tax on it compared to the elgoo/anycubic devices).