Mastering Heat-Set Inserts in Resin 3D Prints

Heat-Set Inserts can not only improve the look and usability of your FDM 3D prints but can also be used in your resin print - if you do it properly!

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Chapters
00:00 Introduction
02:51 Test Setup
05:19 Reference - Inserts in PLA
06:11 How threads fail
07:05 Prusa Anthracite Resin
09:01 Elegoo Translucent Resin
10:07 Geometry Optimization
11:50 Summary
12:30 Sponsored Section
14:11 Outro

#3Dprinting #threadedInserts #HeatSetInserts
DISCLAIMER: Part of this video was sponsored by Squarespace.
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[danielsmullen]

The undercut and stepped hole is the best way to make the threaded inserts work well by far for epoxy, in my experience. However, with resin prints I would recommend an alternative approach. The heat-set inserts you are using are really designed for melting the surrounding area to get a similar geometry in the bonding area as the undercut and stepped hole. It really isn't ideal at all for thermoset plastics. What I predict would work much better in a thermoset resin part are threaded inserts like those used for metal thread repairs. You can use the strongest method, printed threads, and then add EZ-LOK or EZ-Coil (these are the brand name ones) style inserts. I bet you'd get the best of both worlds -- perhaps even as strong as the PLA, or stronger, up to the limit of the differences in material strength between the plastics. There would also be an additional advantage, that this style of threaded insert would improve the precision of the threads in the end while working even with looser tolerances -- this is what they are designed for in metal applications. The geometry is optimized for more brittle failure modes, rather than extended plastic deformation, and this matches the material's failure mode.

[ishanmamadapur]

I recently came across screw in inserts which have a slot in them for using a screwdriver to fit them in the hole, and they are self tapping in a way. I really love their convenience and ease of assembly

[shelbyseelbach]

I've always wondered why everyone uses them in the front side of the hole instead of the backside of the hole. This would leave intact plastic in front of the insert making it much stronger, I believe.
EDIT: I see I'm not the only one that has had this thought. And I see that this thought simply confuses the hell out of some people. Basic physics, an insert will pull out of a hole in plastic easier than it will pull through layers of plastic while pulling out of a hole in the backside of the plastic. Not sure how that's confusing in any way. 🤔

[lilman]

For resin prints, just print out threads for the inserts used on wood furniture. Coat the insert with superglue, and install it in the print. You’ll love the results!

[McStebb]

I know this video is about heat-set inserts specifically, but where I work we often use "keenserts" to add metal threads to plastic parts. You drill & tap (or print as the case may be) a larger threaded hole, the keensert has an external thread to match, and then you thread it in and drive in a couple of locking pins that are included with the insert. Then the insert has an internal thread at the desired size. Our machinist likes them because they don't involve adhesives or heat, you just drill & tap the external thread of the insert. Would be interesting to see how those compare.

[theheadone]

For my functional resin prints I use a mix of 70% Siraya Tech Blu and 30% Tenacious. I'd highly recommend this mix or anywhere from 50%/50% to 90%/10% depending on the part stiffness requirements.

[olafmarzocchi]

While pla is common, technical parts are often made of petg or better ASA/ABS.
Maybe it would be good in the future to add at least a couple of samples in ABS/ASA as reference.

[easymac]

I've been using brass inserts in my resin prints and found what works for me is really simple. Round hole the same OD as the insert. Before curing, press the insert in the hole The uncured resin is soft enough for the knurling to bite into. Mine don't have a very big step, but you could match the profile if needed.

I have not torture tested them, but they work for light duty applications. If someone is actually hanging a 50KG load on an m3 anything, well, just don't. LOL.

[iteerrex]

If it’s strong enough to break the part, that’s as good as it can get. And yes inserts makes parts look and function awesome 👍

[CNCKitchen]

Inserts or no Inserts in 3D prints - What's your opinion?

[properprinting]

Next time someone asks how I placed the inserts in resin I can point them to this video! Thanks for sharing and the shout-out!

[JeanPierreLereboullet]

Hi Stefan, thank you very for sharing these experiments. I usually manually thread holes into resin parts with Isopropanol BEFORE post UV curing these parts. It is much stronger than doing it AFTER post UV curing like you did.

[Xaymar]

If you want higher load you need to use flexible resin. A mix of 95 to 5, which gives you minimal flexibility under load, can hold out more before ripping apart.

[milspectoothpick]

If tapped or printed threads have great strength already without bonding (which can be very surface prep dependent), print or tap oversized holes and use steel thread inserts. There are so many options to choose from, are easier to put in than heat setting, and can be just as cheap or maybe slightly more expensive. But they extra cost is worth it IMO for not having to mess with soldering irons or glues.

[gamefan]

I recently made a new carriage for my Ender 3 that is cast from polyurethane resin and has the inserts directly molded in. Making the mold was difficult, but it was fun figuring out the silicone mold design.

[tadhgd]

Can we appreciate how pixelated and crisp that print looked in the into? The mini Stefan

[NeoIsrafil]

Ive been using them in my resin parts. You just use a little resin around the outside of the part and uv and it works great...especially when, like me, you use translucent ABS-like resins for parts. If i design the parts my resin prints have threads, if someone else designed it for these... I use em. Works fine as long as you drill it just barely oversize, then resin, then uv pen or rig your curing light to be on.

Honestly if you want a truly "tough" resin, use anycubic abs like plus or abslike v2. Both are good and strong and i used them for my voron parts

[deandavies]

I recently tried to add heat inserts into a cast resin version of a 3D printed product I made for a client.

I didnt quite expect the powdery results I got, I went to recasting the piece and then drilled and glued the inserts into the design. Thankfully the part did the job it was intended.

I do still worry that the mechanical fixing of the resin and insert are not as strong as the insert and the 3D printed parts.

[rbgohome]

In the setup the resin test plates break at the given pull force, because it is brittle and the holder has not the dimensional/flatness stability in the range of pull forces. That makes it more of a break test than the pull force needed to pull the insert out of the hole.
A 5mm thick steel plate with a 10mm hole on top of the test plates in the holder would give more accurate results.
Big thumbs up for this laboratory testing effort though, and have a center of discussion. Love it! Thank you.

[ethansdadd]

Great video. I hope someone is inspired by this and finds the perfect solution for threaded inserts with resin. Loved seeing you dip your toe into resin printing again (I laughed out loud), and always love your unique subscribe segments.