HOW TO Assemble Small SPS Swamp Runner Mud Motor Kit (Step by Step)

This video is a step by step guide on how to install the SPS Swamp Runner Kit (Small).

All of the necessary components for the motor come in the kit, minus some basic tools and hardware.

Tools needed:

Adjustable wrench
Ratchet and sockets
Allen wrench set
Philips head screwdriver
Crimping pliers
Wire strippers and cutters
Heat shrink (or electrical tape)
16 gauge wire
16 gauge ring terminal connector
16 gauge male and female snap connector
0, 1, or 2 weight grease
Threadlocker blue
Anti seize
Rubber mallet

If you need any of these tools, or want to price out some tools I used in this video, click on these links below. There is also a link for a free 30 day Amazon Prime trial, if you want to get these items quick, fast, and in a hurry.

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**The links above are affiliate links, which means this channel receives a small commission when you buy through them. They do not cost you anything extra.**

I am not affiliated with SPS North America, the makers of this mud motor kit.

[ShotByDEBO]

Your video was very helpful! Hopefully, this comment of my experience can help someone too!
i Spent the day today assembling my swamp runner large kit with my 22hp predator motor on my boat, and your video walked me through pretty much step by step through the whole process. i did run into some problems that you didn't experience.
(1) the coupler shaft seemed to not slide all the way flush with part of the output shaft, and so the coupler housing didn't fit flush either. i kind of tried different things to figure out if it should be flush before bolting the coupler housing to the engine, and was unsuccessful until i just bolted the coupler housing to the shaft without it being flush, and when tightening the bolts, the housing eventually became flush. It just wasn't really clear in your video if it should have been flush to the rear of the engine before bolting the coupler housing.
(2) feeding the kill switch and ground wires through the tiller handle was a HUGE pain! The tiller handle has 2 relatively sharp bends in it near the engine so it was very difficult to get those flimsy wires through the bends and out of the back of the tiller handle. To fix this, i drilled (with a bit larger than the size of the original hole) into one of the holes near the handle part of the tiller handle where the wires and throttle cable go into the tiller handle pipe. That made it easier for me to feed my snake into the pipe and tape my wires onto the snake and push it through the bends and out of the back of the tiller handle pipe.
(3) Removing and adjusting the throttle cable was very difficult. On my 22 hp predator motor, the phillips screw that holds the end of the throttle cable to the engine throttle body is in a tight spot. The head of the phillips screw faces toward the back of the boat and it is less than an inch away from the exhaust. This bade it impossible to get any normal screw driver in there to loosen and tighten the screw. To fix this, i got a pair of vice grips and clamped them perpendicularly onto a phillips head (removable attachment phillips head that is used for screw drivers that you can change the heads on) and got it onto the head of the screw and i was then able to loosen the screw and adjust the throttle cable on the throttle body.
(4) [this isn't really a problem, but i think this was just a simpler way of doing it] So at about the 15-16 minute mark, when you wire up the kill switch, (instead of doing it the way you did and using another wire and using more connectors) i just spliced my kill switch wire straight into the oil wire and eliminated make that "Y" with the kill switch wire and splicing it with the oil wire. Your way was great and i think it looks good, but it just seemed like an unnecessary step (just my opinion)
But besides these 4 things, it all came together pretty well and with ease. Honestly without this video, assembling this would have been very difficult and way more time consuming.
i will be uploading my video of my build and installation of everything, if you want to check that out. I will reply to this comment when i upload it with the link to that video.
OVERALL, thanks for making this video and i hope this comment can help out anyone who runs into similar issues and experiences.

[MrTonysantanajr]

I don’t even have a John boat. But after this video I want one so I can put that motor on.!!
Super clear instructions. Does not get better then this..

[texaswoody]

Absolutely awesome step-by-step video! EVERY how to video should be this well developed, no matter what its detailing!! Very professionally done. Good hunting this winter my friend.

[Munjibunga]

I have no interest in doing this but I watched the whole thing because of your excellent presentation.

[yepyepuhhuh]

Well done video. Clear and to the point. No additional music, very clear camera shots, and although I am mechanically inclined, I appreciate the fact you did explain the simpler things. (Lining up the throttle cable grooves for the handle. ) hats off to a great video.

[shanepowell]

Thanks, you have the BEST, MOST IN DEPTH VIDEO ON YOUTUBE, , , ABSOLUTELY AWESOME!!! AGAIN THANK YOU SIR.

[andrewshipman]

Helped me wrap it up! Thanks for the video!
(New SPS kit came with a double female end on the wiring. In other words, everything was included)

[braylongann]

This was very helpful and showed me in and out on how to put a mud motor together

[Just.Do.Something]

Great step by step video! Gives me confidence that I can build one on my own!

[dustinchadwick]

This is a great instructional video! Good camera angles, good sound, super straight forward. Thanks

[kaisersose]

My neighbor's teenage son purchased one of these.
He was able to assemble it on his own.
The simplicity makes them durable & the maneuverability is really impressive.

I'm not trying to say this is a bad product, because it's not.
It's really a good product.
I'm also not trying to dissuade anyone from purchasing this product.

There's a serious flaw in this design though.

I wouldn't recognize it if I hadn't made the same mistake myself.

The "spline adapter nut" should be secured in a way that locks the threads.
Something more substantial than nylock is needed to do the job.

The consequences of not doing so are that the first time the engine backfires, that nut WILL unscrew.

Any seals or bearings between there and the end of the prop shaft are toast.
You're also going to have a whole lot more play in the end of the prop shaft than you want, assuming it doesn't blow the prop shaft out of the end of the housing.

I've had the combination of twisting and pushing between two fixed points of a 170cc predator engine break a 3/4" grade 8 bolt...

This type of engine is most likely to backfire when trying to start it while warmed up and with resistance.
Something like weeds & debris on the prop, or a partially engaged engine brake.

I never did find a way to solve the problem with my mud motor in this configuration, so I can tell you for certain what won't work:

Welds, shear pins, locktite or carrier bearings/pillow blocks.

What might bypass this flaw is reworking the spline adapter nut and the shaft it screws on to.
Grind the threads off the shaft, and make flat spots on opposing sides of the shaft. Make the hole in the spline adapter nut match.
Once the threads are gone, a circlip should be sufficient to secure it in place.

[juliosdiy]

This will def be my goto vid this Spring.

[MrChongJones]

I want to thank you for doing such a great video kit I got came without instructions and I just easily followed along with your video and got it done....thank you!!

[bulletproofpepper]

Great video! I like that I can hear you loud and clear, you have good tips and trick. It was quick, but you did rush through the important steps. I like that you walk us through the project as you would talk to a friend and a two year old. I liked the project itself. Thanks for sharing.

[threesetstofailure]

I would only add that I usually run a sqaush plate between my boat transom and the mount screws. I use either a 1/4" Aluminum plate or have used a 1/2" pine board as simple as a cutoff piece. The pine board is actually not bad. It is just soft enought to make the screws bite in and lock it in place into the wood. That causes it to not drift around at all. Anything to avoid a indention of a circle into your hull.

[SPS-MOTOP]

It is necessary to lubricate the cone under the screw, so that it is easier to remove later, tested in practice

[kingtut]

THis guy looks KOOL putting all parts on.

[tommyalbrado]

Thx bro your video helped the install go very smooth. I just bought a large kit and it was pretty simple for an average joe like myself. Great video, very detailed, keep it going

[cdacar]

Presentation was so good....I had to watch it just like Mike C.
No interest or need...just keep my interest up.
Great job. Thanks

[rik]

Great video and information. Really easy to follow.