Simpson Strong-Tie Titen HD 3/8 x 6' 304SS Concrete Screw for Rock Climbing Bolt

[darrenmabe]

very nice. climbers have been whipping on bolts placed with a fraction of the thought and care you do. thank you. I will be trying these out at an obscure crag.

[redrockclimbingguides]

IIRC the spec states a max allowable installation torque, that is different than a torque you should take it to... Max allowable installation torque is more like, don't take it beyond this value because it will overly stress the bolt or the substrate it is in. Since the method of engagement with the substrate is passive, like a nut, torqueing it to any meaningful degree beyond it being snug against the hanger and rock doesn't make sense... Torqueing expansion bolts beyond snug against the hanger/rock makes sense since over time the expansion can damage the rock and decrease the force applied by the expansion sleeve/cone, so the extra torque is pre-loading it to try to account for this inevitable (in soft stone) decrease in expansion force over time.

Titen's are pretty sweet. Cost aside, I think for soft-ish rock they make the most sense as bolts in terms of ease of installation, ease of removal, and leave a good hole for a glue-in which you should use in soft stone anyways. No fiddling with bolt spinning, fishing pieces of a bolt out of a hole, pounding in bolts and patching, just remove with a ratchet.

[nickhenscheid]

"Testing" it by yanking on it with a sling? You should send some to How Not 2 and get some real tests done on their Dyno. Would be interesting to see what kind of numbers they get. Cyclical loading is an interesting issue too (many whips over many years).