install and test corro-protech (anode rod)

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install corro pro-tech anode rod to eliminate hot water sulfur smell and protect from internal corrosion. Alittle pricey but it does work.
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I installed one of these on my water heater. Some things I did that aren't in the video are:

Just before going to bed, and after everyone had used the hot water they needed before bed, I turned off the gas to the water heater. I figured it would make it easier to work with water that wasn't hot.

I planned on flushing my water heater when I did the rod change, so turning off the gas before bed meant that I didn't waste $$ heating water that was going to be flushed out.

When I turned off the water supply to the heater and opened up some hot water spigots throughout my house, I took off the aerators on the faucets, because I figured there'd be some sediment stirred up in the HW lines (I was right).

I used a cordless electric impact driver to remove the old rod, which worked well. No issues with tank rotating. I wore ear protection because the impact driver is LOUD and it took a while to loosen the rod. If you're going to try a I wouldn't, and would use a breaker bar. The ratchet mechanism isn't meant to take the torque if a "cheater bar" (i.e. length of pipe) is used.

I used a six sided impact rated (i.e. flat black, not chrome) socket. A 12 point chrome socket can flatten the anode rod nut, making removal almost impossible. Chrome sockets can also crack/fail if used with impact drivers. I didn't use an impact driver to install the Corro-Protec rod.

I used teflon tape AND pipe dope on the new rod.

I couldn't find any torque specs for the Corro-Protec rod so I used a 1/2" torque wrench and set it at 40 ft.-lbs. This felt "good and tight" to me and, most importantly, was tight enough for my installation that I had no leaks.

I drained and flushed my water heater a few times after I had the new rod installed. There are many, many videos on how to flush a HW tank. My method was to leave the drain valve open, and open/shut the water supply several times to stir up the sediment and flush it out.

The power clip that goes on the anode is supposed to be crimped down at installation (per instructions). I chose to wait a day to make sure I had no leaks before I crimped down the clip on the anode.

This is WHAT I DID; I'm not saying IT"S WHAT YOU SHOULD DO. I'm not a plumber, and am not offering advice on how you should do YOUR installation. If you don't feel comfortable doing a job like this, you should hire a professional plumber to do the work.

DrBilly
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Impact wrench for my air compressor was only 140..it took the rod out in less than 5 minutes! You can also rent one at a rental place or big box hardware store like Home Depot/Lowes. Make a mark or two on the impact wrench nut so you can see if it’s moving as you use it. Magnesium is fairly soft, it’s not hard to hacksaw out, or get a metal cutting blade for a jigsaw..just clamp the lower part so it doesn’t drop into the tank when you cut through it! Follow instructions..crimp the little tab for a good electrical connection and be sure to attach the ground to the tank.

johncspine
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Hi. After I installed, why the green light on black thing not on as 4:59 ?

taile
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Hi. After I installed, why the green light on black thing not on as 5:01 ?

taile
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