10 Minute Daily Hangboard Routine (FOLLOW ALONG)

Get 20% Off Any Frictitious Climbing Hangboard with a Doorway Mount (No promo code, drill or setup needed)

CLARIFICATION ABOUT LOADING:
I've seen some comments about how much 40% of max is, here's an example how I calculate mine:

I weigh around 80kg, and could add around 80-100kg if I do a max hang (~5 second hang) on a 20mm edge. Total weight: ~160kg.
From this value I want to load my fingers by 40% of that. 40% of 160kg is 64kg, and so I want to subtract 64kg from my 80kg on the scale.
E.g, on the half crimp the scale says somewhere around 15-25kg for me when I'm loading my fingers correctly.

With the two-finger half crimp I'm the weakest, and can just barely hang from the ground as a max hang, there I unload 40-45kg instead.

Hope this clears it up a bit!

Timestamps:
0:00 Introduction & Set up
2:00 Half Crimp
5:00 3 Finger drag
8:00 Front 2-finger drag
9:00 Middle 2-finger drag
10:00 Front 2-finger crimp
11:00 Middle 2-finger crimp

This is the daily routine I've been doing for healthy and strong fingers! Follow along with me.

My previous two videos on this subject:
Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day For 30 Days

Hangboard Training 2 times per day for 2 years

My gear:
Favorite shoes
Chalk Bucket
Chalk bag

Everything shot on Sony A7SIII with Tamron lenses.

Any support is incredibly welcomed and appreciated. You all make the content happen!

Instagram:

[leprechaun]

Just started this protocol last week and having Emil tell me every day that I'm amazing and he loves me is a pretty great way to start the day

[aid]

Babe wake up new hangboard video just dropped

[hulamoose]

I came for the hangboard training, but what I needed was Emil telling me “I love you” every morning

[tigreeeee]

Here is more sample-size-of-one scientific evidence: I tried this for one month, every once in a while I did it only once a day. I tried a 45 degree spray wall yesterday, which I had never tried before. I could complete several moves which in itself is an amazing progress for me. But the most surprising thing was how absolutely painless it was. I have had a left climber elbow for years and my fingers and joints always hurt at least a little when climbing pretty much anything. Not this time. My arms and hands not only feel stronger but, dare I say, healthier? Amazing stuff, strongly recommended. Don't lose motivation at the beginning, the load is very low and I felt like it was a waste of time at first, but as weeks progressed I could feel my half crimps feeling, for lack of a better description "more solid".

[BoulderingHighlights]

Love this submax approach!

Summary for anyone interested
The protocol involves sub-maximal loading of the fingers using different grip positions.
The protocol consists of six sets of a half crimp position and six sets of a three-finger drag position, along with variations of these grips.
A door mount called "Fictitious" is mentioned as a convenient way to attach the hangboard to a door. (20% off with Emil's Link)
The protocol can be done once or twice a day with a six-hour window between sessions, using approximately 40% of the maximum weight the person can hang.

[moreilly]

I just turned 60 and I have been climbing for 34 years, I had to take a break due to illness and I just started this, I am going to do it everyday, it’s so much easier than old school training and perfect for me, I feel hopeful for the first time in a while, thank you! ❤

[BigSources]

Very viewer friendly content, couldn't have possibly made it easier for us. I'm 7 days in and already seeing results, around 40% increases overall on all the exercises. When I've become world cup winner I'll give you a shoutout (I climb v6 right now)

[matthewsevers]

Emil, I’ve watched this video a bunch of times since you posted. So helpful. I’ve been dealing with a tweaky ring finger issue for a couple of months. Have been doing this protocol twice a day for a week or two and the finger is finally starting to feel good again. Just did a full session yesterday with no tape. It’s very anecdotal, but, this protocol works really well for me. Thank you!

[bigsteezer]

Doing these submax hangs roughly 10x/week is helping my climbing immensley. I sent my first solid v6 outside the other day. It was a problem I wasnt even sure I could pull on to, then a few goes later I was on top....so excited for outdoor season now

onwards and upwards (incrementally and safely)
🚀

[ichweissnicht]

This is some crazy magic. My fingers were hurting for the last few months. I only had taped sessions for ages. Now I tried this routine for one week, and today was my first session without tape and much pain.

If you don't want to do max hangs with weights, you don't even need a hangboard. I just load my fingers on a sturdy door frame in my apartment.

[peterb.]

Emil, because of this video I finally went ahead and picked up the Frictitious doorway hangboard mount for use in my apartment.
I am *very* pleased with the wood texture, construction quality, and clever design -- it is awesome.
Thanks for sharing the results of this protocol, anything that helps us all climb harder AND safer is a big win.

[ELJAMM]

Well it looks like I'll have to start tomorrow, you've made it so easy to follow! Great job Emil!

[MrCrigYT]

So unbelievably helpful, my middle finger has been killing me recently, and ever since i started doing this, the pain is slowly going away, can finally moonboard again

[millacabral]

If you don't have a hangboard you can do this by leaning back while crimping a solid doorframe haha. I held with one hand at a time to get enough weight, by crimping on the right for 10s, then left 10s, then 10s rest, and repeat, that way each hand gets 20 sec rest. Works well and it's super easy to do anytime. The only issue is keeping the load consistent, I did that by not moving my feet and trying to keep my shoulders square on, which is still easier than using a scale haha.

[lorenzodsilva]

Emil Thankyou so much for the information and re igniting the frie within us to climb. Every video you make is like another piece of wood in the flame, fuling us with the warmth of inspiration. Thank you for all the time you spend on topnof all your traing to record and curuate, edit and upload( if you have help doing this A BIG THANKYOU TO THEM TOO and anyone who supports) Just so you know its not just you who is glad to have us watching but also equally us who are happy to have you to watch! Looking forward to following your sucess and cheering you on always!

[Potsu___]

I've been looking for an excuse to pull the trigger on a hangboard that I can use in my house and this comes without needing a permanent mount. Look at what you made me do! Now I have a Monolith and doorway mount coming my way. :)

[lawrencesounddesign]

Been following this protocol for a few weeks now. It has made my open grip strength so much stronger and I'm far more confident in my tendons. I'm an older climber, 46, and tendon health is a huge concern as I don't bounce back from injury like I used to. This program is helping, my hands feel like vice grips now. Definitely going to continue the 10 minute every 6 hour routine.

[tradixxthefluffy]

10 days in. Its insane… Never been able to hang one arm on middle lower rung on beastmaker 2000 and after these ten days three or four seconds after hard bouldering session. And i am not speaking about the fact that my fingers feels much more healthy during climbing. Give it a try for sure. Potentialy plateau breaking stuff my friends.

[adelinewright]

Literally just learned how to half crimp again, I’ve never attempted this with just 2 fingers. I always either full crimp or open hand. Thank you for this information and helpful follow along! My fingers don’t hurt, this gave me a ton of confidence!

[jrthhfdff]

I don't know why but emil avoiding eye contact with the camera is killing me 🤣🤣🤣