Mark Stainless Steel with this Diode Laser (the new 20W xTool D1 Pro)

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Mark Stainless Steel with this Diode Laser (the new 20W xTool D1 Pro). This is a diode laser that marks metal! This new laser is bananas. The extra wattage allows the laser to anneal certain metals like stainless steel and titanium. With crazy good results!

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Working with Fire, lasers, Electricity and Power Tools is extremely dangerous. Please use caution if you are attempting anything in these videos.

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I do a bit of tig welding on stainless. Flat non structural sheets will warp. Try clamping it to a nice 1/2" thick piece of aluminum chill block on top of your honeycomb. The aluminum will absorb and pull the heat from the stainless, the honeycombwont allow it to be trapped. (In theory)

daviddube
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Use double sided tap to hold the thin metals to a thicker piece of metal.

mrbmp
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Omg I used to watch your vids about color burning before covid. I loved your videos back then.

KeiraraVT
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Hello, through the process of heating and subsequently cooling the steel, a structural hardening takes place. A harder structure can lead to a contraction of up to 1%. To prevent this effect, it may be helpful to preheat the steel. An example would be using an oven at temperatures between 200 and 250°C, as the tempering colors in the steel only begin to appear at over 350°C.

AndreasGosch
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have you set your max and min pwr settings in LB. As you probably know, it will cut power a little at corners to avoid hot spots and color changes.

danspickard
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Start watching the video while waiting on a project to run and you mention out of focus... The oh shit moment when I realize I forgot to focus my laser lol

dustinm
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Interesting. Your settings are much different than mine. I will try again on aluminum (didn't have much luck) but high polish stainless (lightly scuffed) I have been able to gets blues, browns and blacks but nothing else. I NEED yellow, lol. On the Atezr site they actually show a full pallet of colors at different speeds but i have not been able to produce the same results. It's interesting that your squares differer by about 2% in power. But your set-up is much different where everything is run at 0.10 where mine is varying amounts here but all the same mm/m (or mm/s). I'll give your set-up a shot and see if it will finally pull through.

It's funny, eventhough these (I have the Atezr L2) can burn color I have NOT found too many videos on it...

ThisLifeWeLive
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I'd love to see you do an update with the newly updated XCS software. They've seemingly made some great improvements. I'm still learning to use these machines.

pmdinaz
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Awesome! Great video. You are really nailing colors.

craigrotay
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The last skull or the dragon can't decide lol. I've been cutting small parts with my 10w out of roughly 2mm black plastic sheets I salvaged from the underside of some treadmills. They aren't perfectly flat to start with (close enough though) and sometimes warp or curl a bit while cutting. I don't have any way to secure anything to my makeshift honeycomb thing so I've been using 3" x 1/4" steel slugs placed on the edges too hold it flat. If I'm cutting parts along an edge I'll put it in the middle of the sheet. I got a handful of circles and rectangles of various sizes for free - they were scrap cutouts at a metal fabrication shop. Something similar might work to hold down the ends of your thinner sheets. Oh and I always try and remember to frame the job again after putting them down to make sure the laser won't hit them.

harmonic
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Question: why are you not using some 2-sided tape to hold down the metal to keep any warping from impeding the head movement? I’m not criticizing, I’m wondering… I’m looking to buy and I appreciate your testing and experimentation! Cheers

richasay
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Nick always a fun time in your shop. Thanks for all the great lesson Pro and con.

Northponder
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Hmmm what if you slap the metal on a damp sponge? Maybe it’ll keep temps cooler while running laser so the metal won’t warp .

DamienDavidO
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I saw on some one else's video, they screwed the metal down to a wood block then laser'd it. just make the square a little bigger then trim the screw holes off.

chrisacampbell
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Is the d1 pro 10w can make some colors like you did ? Or I should buy 20w ? Thank you

chefemrahfandakli
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Super helpful vid. Thanks a lot. The question remaining is, did you really make out with it...😂😂😂

gnryushi
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Stainless steel test is cool! Do you have framing problems with XCS? My pro frames in lightburn but not XCS. Firmware and software up to date.

wittworks
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I would try using a tick aluminum backer to disapate the heat.

novaorbitdragon
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I would love to see which power and speed settings make which colors on the different materials to have a baseline to start with. I would also appreciate a video on how to ungroup on light burn.

MrMadeinthes
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Hello Nick, I saw a video about the warp problem, and they suggested using a honeycomb base to help dissipate the heat quicker, which should reduce the amount of warping. This or securing your work on spacers to provide a gap below your work. I hope this helps and thanks for sharing with us.

unitedamerica