I 3D Printed 'Viral' Tools So You Don't Have To...

I love a good 3D Printed Tool - and functional 3d prints as a whole. The idea of being able to save money, time, and a trip to the hardware store, while getting EXACTLY the tool I want, in the color I want, with 3D Printable replacement parts when I inevitably break it? That, to me, is what 3D Printing is all about..

But in the last couple of years, as printers have gotten significantly better (and design competitions have gotten significantly more rewarding), I've noticed a certain trend... functional 3D Print designs are getting more and more complicated, with many more parts, much more assembly, and much more filament required...

In this video, we're going to take a look at some of the most popular, "advanced" 3D Printed Tools, and ask the question: are they worth your time, money, and most importantly... your filament?

🎥  IN THIS VIDEO:  🎥
00:00 Introduction
02:04 Flexible Hose for Dust Extraction
04:25 Table Saw FeatherBoard
05:46 Solder Scroll
07:42 Solder Flux Extruder
09:54 LTT Screwdriver
13:05 Mechanical Pencil
15:13 Table Vise
18:04 V-Roller Filament Spooler
23:26 Summary & Conclusion

🔗 LINKS MENTIONED IN THE VIDEO: 🔗

🗳 STL FILES OF FEATURED 3D PRINTING MODELS: 🗳  

🛒 RECOMMENDED GEAR: 🛒

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[thenextlayer]

Thanks for watching, friend! I'd love to hear what you thought of this video?

[Youpuber]

Hi! I am the designer of the Solder Scroll. Thanks for featuring my design! The tolerances should work with most well-tuned printers. Removing the seam with a small file on the inside of the gears should help as well. Otherwise increase the gear size with a few percent. Hope that helps!

[rickmontzka]

I'd watch another video on 3D printed tools. One trick I use with threads (or similar) is baking soda and water. Get the thread wet. Sprinkle a little baking soda on the wetness to form a paste. Try threading it together like cutting threads - forward a little then back it off and try again. The baking soda acts like a polishing grit and it seems to leave a film that is a little slippery. Rinse the parts clean when the threads are working better. There's my 2 cents worth of advice related to 3D printed threads.

[rodrigob]

Understanding which popular prints are worth our time or not is, in my view, a high value video proposition.
(One hour of Next Layer testing something bad is thousands of hours of pain saved across the viewers, one hour of Next Layer having fun is opening the door for thousand of hours of viewers sharing the fun).

Looking forward for the follow-up.

[DrDoohickie]

I want to expound what @rodrigob said. Printer reviews are great but I'm pretty much set on which brand I trust. Reviewing print designs, however, is really informative and interesting. Reviewing tools also gives a great justification for 3D printing in general. Explaining how you adjusted some designs to make them work is also useful for viewers. I think this would be a great niche for you and great content for viewers/followers.

[schmiddy]

I noticed in a bunch of your bambu lab timelapses you have parts fail from random threads flying off of it from the infill. I have found that this is from having my max flowrate set too high. At high speeds the plastic rather than flowing out to the sides seems to expand and bunch up behind the toolpath of the nozzle meaning when the nozzle comes back it smacks them out of place, so this could also just be infill print speed too high. I'm guessing that the nozzle tip is just too narrow on BL printers to really properly spread the plastic out. This drove me nuts because I get insane results on most flowrate test prints, up to 20mm3/s with PETG, but in reality i find that real prints fail often at this speed. As soon as i set my flowrate down to 15mm3/s everything prints perfectly i haven't had a problem since for the past 200 print hours.

For dimensional accuracy I found that inner/outer/inner works best. This means the inner-most wall prints first, then the outer wall, then the 'infill' walls get printed. This has been super accurate for me.

I also generally recommend when printing long tall objects to just split it up into multiple prints. It's just too risky to print them at the same time.

Don't bother respooling cardboard spools. Just put electrical tape on the edges. I've had zero failures in my AMS with that hack.

[TheOfficialOriginalChad]

Anything with threads should be printed horizontally. If you don’t like supports, then just drop a few mm of the threads under the build plate and it will work just fine.

Think about it: tightening a bolt stretches it. If you print vertically, that means the force is pulling the layers apart.

[morgenkaffe]

I have printed the V spooler in only ABS+ followed the print instruction, and also follow the instructions of use. It just works GREAT, never had a single problem with the respooler, at any moment, and yes I do use it often. IMO the absolute best respooling system out there so far. It took me more than an hour to collect if fully and was no hazzle, with the great in dept instruction. Use some grease for the gears and you are all good. Just dont run it too fast with the electric screwdriver, when respooling. Have fun with your new V Spooler

[kalenpatterson]

I'm always most excited to see your new videos come out because they're actually useful! Not just another sponsored review video. Testing things like tools, filaments, print settings, and other things that we makers use every day and wonder if there's something better we could be using, or want to know if something is actually worth getting without having to waste the money buying a bad product. Keep doing what you're doing!

[meanman]

A lot of you guys need to learn the techniques the 3D printed firearms makers use and apply them to your mechanical projects for strength and durability regardless of your opinions on home made firearms. Also cardboard spools for high heat filaments are a GOOD thing as it means you can dry them at higher temps that most of the polymer spools can’t withstand.

[birello]

Regardless V-Roller, print plastic insert ("Handle-to-Drill Adaptor (Strong)", see files) for your drill. It doesnt strip anything. I also stripped like 5 of drill atachments before realizing metal on plastic doesnt work..
Print "Quiet Roller for V-Spooler" - it's a bottom rollers with TPU rings, so it makes it quiter

[Paradox_yt]

I print a lot with PETG, and the stringing is something you get used to. Its easy enough to clean up, however, just run a low temperature lighter, like a bic, over the part quickly. All the strings will either fall off or curl up right next to the part, where a deburring tool can pop em off easily

[digitalsparky]

Flexible Hose: What about adding 4 magnets into the base, that way you don't have to weigh it down as much, it'll stay stable, and you don't have to clamp it to a table, you can use any magnetic surface.

[ultramegax]

Gotta be honest... I question whether some of these print/tool fails are user error. I've used the Pastamatic Filament Spool Winder for months and it still works great. Super clever design and super reliable. And that's with PLA+. If I have to reprint it at some point, I'll do the gears in nylon. But no issues yet.

I'm also not sure why you thought an impact driver would be the tool to use for the respooler. But at least you're honest about your mistakes! I really appreciate that!

[Jwmbike]

Havent gotten past the first tool, which was the flexible vacuum hose. However, when I saw your foot mount to flat mount to to table with weight, I immediately noticed you could syphon off of the vacuum line and haf the foot "suck" its self down to a table, so long as its wood, plastic, metal, etc.

[AndrewAHayes]

I printed a puller tool from Makerworld but the thread on the main screw did not have a start which made screwing it in to the frame impossible, the designer claimed he had no issues screwing it in, I took a closer look at the design, I was right there is no way this will work.
There is no photograph of the printed tool which normally puts me off printing the file, however I could not find a puller tool anywhere else and so I took a chance.
I asked the designer to post the photo of his printed puller that he claimed the bolt screwed in, as expected no photo was uploaded!

[themacbookgamer]

5:05 I've given up on printing PETG until I can get a filament dryer because printing in 50%+ humidity is just not working

[justamember]

Please do more of these types of videos!! We are always looking for useful printed items to print for woodworking, farm stuff, sewing, organizing, and various other projects.

[leonardosestari]

I've had more luck printing long objects when i print them one at a time, since the print head doesn't have to jump from one to another. That prevents it from bumping stuff and knocking them over. Maybe that makes some of these prints worth it to try again.

[Mildly_Amused]

I saw the parts of the pastamatic spooler in your filament recycle bin. Mine has worked flawlessly since I printed and assembled it last year. I eventually added the 3kg spool optional remix and mounted it to a piece of scrap wood. The only addition I'm going to add is a TPU brake with adjustable tension for the source spool. I wonder what made you toss yours out?