Everything wrong with the Cheapest E Type Jaguar S1 roadster, with the WORST OIL LEAK EVER!

[vibingwithvinyl]

That's not an oil leak. That's a self lubricating anti-corrosion system used in many Jaguars.

[ShouldKnowBetter]

I have replaced a few of these recently, HOWEVER IT MAY NOT NEED DOING.

A common leak point is the 2 external cam feeds at the back of the cylinder head. Run your fingers over them and see if oil is pouring out.

Check the sump has not been overfilled, then it will really blow by the seal. You cannot rely on the dipstick as they get changed. The E- type dipstick is unique to the E-type, check it has "E" stamped near the bottom. Drain the oil and refill with the correct amount of the thick stuff (20W50).
If the breather gauze is blocked, the crankcase can be pressurised, undo the e 4 nuts at the front of the engine and check the gauze and breather pipe.

If the seal has to be replace their are options, however the cheapest best option is probably a correctly fitted new rope seal. The other options require crank machining. On the face of it, your engine appears excellent, so I wouldn't mess with it.

It is not a terrible job to drop the engine and box, however big chunks of the car have to come off. However with Wizards skills and equipment it is quite quick to do. It is all quite simple, however a bit unusual, as the gearbox will not come back far enough to be removed without the engine coming out and the whole assembly will not come out until the suspension springs are disconnected form the reaction plate below the gearbox.

Battery off, fluids drained, Seats out, center console and radio console out, undo prop bolts at the gearbox and speedo drive, bonnet off (2 bolts and the balance bars), Remove the whole inlet manifold with a half inch spanner including the carbs attached pull t the side, alternator off, , pull the exhaust-manifolds back and drop the entire exhaust on one piece off the car, unbolt the clutch slave and push to the side.
Undo steering ball joints. Split the top ball joints with the lower arm supported on a jack. Drop the lower arm to relieve the tension in the torsion bars. Undo the reaction plate bolts, remove the reaction plate.
Support the engine and gearbox from below if you are going to lift the car off, from above if you are going to drop the engine and box onto the ground. The balance point is the rear engine loop. Undo the engine mounts, center gearbox support, rear gearbox support.

Carefully lower it to the ground.
I would remove the gearbox from the engine, invert the engine, remove. the sump and get to the seal. I would replace the clutch assembly.
It would take me a day to take it apart and 2 days to put it all together, not many £parts are needed.

They always leak a little bit from the rear main seal, even when you have spent £300 machining the crank and the same on the seal conversion kit.

[costasmandylor]

Asking if an old Jag is leaking is like asking if England has a monarch. Yeah, dude. That's what they do.

[Fulloctanegarage]

I bought a series 3 V12 Etype four years ago for $9000. In pretty good shape I thought I could just put $10-$20, 000 in it and just drive it around. I put $120, 000 in it and now it’s the nicest $70, 000 Etype in town. Or it would be if it weren’t leaking oil all over my garage. 😂

[williamegler]

Apparently it was restored to factory original condition.
Most of the problems, the oil leaks in particular, would have been present on a factory fresh example.

[curtbrown]

Hi Tyler commented on the last video. You can get an upgraded seal now days as opposed to the rope one. When we’ve done rear mains on e types or clutches it’s easier to take the whole engine out with the gearbox attached but you can do that in a few hours it’s relatively straightforward, put the car on a 4 post ramp, few ancillaries off that will clash the frames, centre console out, undo the prop, undo engine mounts and lift the car off the engine and box, means you can leave the bonnet on too. The hardest part is the reaction plate which is that thick bar across. The easiest way to do that is crack the upper wishbones off, take the track rods off and rock the lower arm up and down to realise the bolts that are under tension from the torsion bars. Then you take the gearbox off the engine once you’re out, probably do the clutch while it’s out so it’s done. You might get away with just doing the half of the rms in the sump so fingers crossed! It’ll be a doddle for wizard either way. Also the wood on the picture frame is more common than you’d think 😂

[pastedtomato]

There's this upgrade kit for the rear main seal, that uses a modern style seal rather than the original rope one, and it's like 400 USD, but "Please note that the crankshaft must be machined at the sealing area before installation and this must be carried out by a qualified machine shop. "

[sevenus]

Wizard is probably one of the kindest, nicest people I've seen on any Youtube video in many, many years.
His vibe and energy are amazing.

[calaverius]

After years of watching this channel I'll never get over the fact that Hoovie has spent millions of dollars on cars and can't buy a $100 wireless lapel mike so we can hear wtf the wizard is saying.

[MrPabsUk]

You can get a normal oil seal conversion kit for a few hundred quid, takes some fitting, but once its done, its done. Of course, without that oil leak, there`ll be no chassis rust prevention, so I`d recommend drilling a 0.3mm hole at the back of the sump, one on either side.. 😁

[ericward]

I worked for a year or so at an upholstery shop, and we did some work on an E-type, which had been rebuilt completely. The shop owner kept the car at his house about 2 miles away. I got to drive it there late one night on Venice Bl in LA., a wide street with no traffic, and I did what any young man would do and dropped the hammer.... the car was absolutely perfect! I won't ever forget the way it pulled.

[dave]

I've actually replaced those old rope seals (not on a Jag). You're making me feel really old. The styling on E types is absolutely timeless, beautiful cars!

[terrallputnam]

I can see it now, Tyler pulls into the full service gas station and tells the attendant, "Fill it up with oil, and check the gas!"

[ajdell]

Purchased a 69 e type 8 yrs ago with 17000 original miles and no leaks whatever after 12000 miles of driving pleasure. Boy to I feel the gods looking after me. Such a great car to drive. The straight 6 XK engine is a beast!

[just-another-guy]

Barum engines over here in the UK do a few of the e-type engines and I think on the last one, they found a replacement seal that was a normal seal instead of a rope one. Might be worth hitting them up on youtube.

[gazzafloss]

Tyler, I owned and daily used a '70 model 4.2 E-type coupe' for 15 years from '78 to '93, oil leaks are common, but driving the Jag will always put that smile on your face. There's a guy on YouTube from up in Canada, his name is Richard Michael Owen, him and his dad run a British car resto business called Owen automotive, Richard is an "ace" on Jaguars and all aspects of the marque', try a "reach out" to him, he'll know how to properly fix that rear main oil leak most effectively.

[WXYZ]

😂The reason Jaguar didn’t make TV’s, is they couldn’t figure out how to make it leak oil!😅

[GM-fhjp]

Nice to hear you say "An E-Type Jag" NOT an XKE as Jay always says.
Looks beautiful in BRG and they do go pretty hard.
Looking forward to more episodes on this sweet classic.

[finnharris]

The piece of wood at the front of the car is used with a trolley jack, common mod to do to prevent the 'picture frame' from crumpling

[youtube-handle-are-a-joke]

That piece of wood is to put the floor jack under without crushing the core support like so many people did. Other wise you can't lift both wheels at the same time. Edit I typed before you figured it out. The rear main seal is rope, if the car was sitting for a long time without being driven it's gone. There's a conversion kit for a lip seal but it's quite an undertaking to adapt it. There are some "custom" made panels on the side of the engine.