Calibrating your XYZ steps using a dial gauge for maximum accuracy

If the dimensions of your printed objects are out, this video will show how to use a dial gauge to measure and adjust your steps per mm for the X, Y and Z axes. It also covers the wrong way to tune this parameter so you don’t make the same mistake.

Thanks to the viewers and my patrons for requesting this guide and video.

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[TeachingTech]

Some responses to frequent comments here:
- A few comments on plastic shrinkage contributing to the final inaccuracy of the parts. Very good point and I will add this to the webpage.
- Some people has critiqued the method, which is fair. Ideally, we would be measuring 100mm or more of travel, but the dial gauge doesn't really allow that. There's a note about this on the webpage.

[HuckThis]

Being a tool and die maker in the past, once a year we would have a tech come in and check our cnc mills for travel and or backlash. There are belts between, stepper motors and ball screws. This would give the tech the condition of the belts, balls screws etc. We needed to do this because we worked a lot within +-.0005''

Also, they are a closed system. They can remove the backlash. 3D printers are open systems. In this case, temperature and humidity take a huge factor on the belts. Like guitar strings. ;)

So like many mention, Your parts of the printer are a constant due to being solid and the belts can change length with temperature and humidity. Like any object, they are affected by temperature and all have a different thermal linear expansion.

So stepper motor counts/mm should stay the same. Either dial in the belt tension with the dial indicator or use the thermal expansion in the slicing software.

Also previously being a plastic injection mould maker, you have to take the shrink rate per type of plastic you are using. For example, setting Z steps for PLA for that perfect 20mm will not be the same fore other types of material since the shrink rates are not the same. Again, using the thermal expansion in the slicing software.

[jungofett]

I am on your website now. I'm up to a Slicer Flow Calibration cube its printing. then you upload a video about it. I just want to say Thank You Michael. The amount of times your videos and website have saved my Bacon. I just joined the Patreon its the least I can do.

[dinosoarskill]

I need my parts to be as accurate as possible for work, this is a HUGE help. Thanks!

[kevinm]

Thanks a ton for giving us this info, this is sadly something that has been neglected and something I feel is critical and missing in the community so hats off for getting us up to speed with accuracy!

[Inventorsquare]

I experimented with this and got better results with default step values according to pulley diameters, etc. I honestly don’t think 1” dial gauges have great enough resolution to make this practical. This is a better concept if it can be scaled, particularly for harsh, changing environments and wear.

[spudnickuk]

Thank you so much for a proper insight to setting up a 3D Printer and the best thing that no one else has done and that is have a website to enter the values of the E-Steps and get a proper result without any confusion.
now my Stepper Motors are set up correctly and now performs super accurate on my Enders 3 V

[TechnologistAtWork]

Such a good teacher. Many channels just talk and don't actually show any useful information. Not here.

[Komma]

Ohh ball bearing tips?! Sold!
Looked at them a while back but just used my calipers instead. Now I need one. Thanks!

[ericcsuf]

Outstanding tutorial. How and WHY clearly explained.

[matt_f_all_steams]

This is very helpful because the typical way is to print a xyz calibration cube but if your z steps are too short then your nozzle will not be raising enough making your print fail so you won't have the dimension to calibrate the correct steps/mm.

Also since I didn't have the dial gauge mount I just used legos

[deuterium]

Use a 360 degree rotation of the stepper for movement calibration. That eliminates some periodic errors.

[masonbattaglia]

Although a good idea, going of the math for the pulleys and belts (default steps/mm) is probably better. I found if my parts are a bit to big or too small, using the expansion compensation in the slicer is a more reliable.

[Yngwiejmalmsteen]

I’ve been doing this for years so this isn’t anything new to 3D printing but was great to watch 👍

[christophbrun]

Good video, easy to understand explenations.
I think you should have mentioned material shrinkage. Especially because no two materials shrink by the same amount.
In the beginning this may not be as important especially when printing with pla, but on some projects where part dimensions are key. this needs to be considered
Keep on going!

[davidrandall]

Can't wait to try this out. I have been running my Ender 5 with only minimal alignments and have had very few issues. Might be time to see what this thing can really do when tuned up. Love the channel for its content and presentation. It's fun to learn new stuff, Thank you.

[TimJuPe]

You are just awesome good sir!
This morning (in germany) I was thinking - maybe my printing problems are related to e steps on Z...
6 hours later boom - video from teaching tech about it

Thank you so much 💖

[PaulDominguez]

This just what I needed. I just printed a dial mount for the CR-30

[ricklynch]

Good video. Well done.
Being an Aerospace Machinist, I'd like to point out to you that it's a Dial Indicator and is properly known and called such. This is not a Test Dial Indicator, but a Plunge type Digital Dial Indicator.

[cavemansmancave]

When indicating the Y axis, mount a target to the bed. Print it or clamp it lightly but rigidly. Also, mount the indicator base to a heavy steel block. These two things will reduce deflection errors.
Thanks,
John