Damp Course Using Damp Proofing Rods (How & Why)

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Damp proofing rods are a relatively simple and inexpensive way of doing a damp proof course (DPC). In this video, John explains why we use damp proofing rods and how they work effectively.

There are plenty of methods and plenty of products on the market for doing a damp course. We use damp proofing rods because they are easy to install and relatively quick to take effect. This is the method of installation:

🔵 Plaster is removed from the bottom of the walls up to a height of 1.5m – this is because rising damp can reach a height of up to approx 1.2m. Rising damp not only brings moisture but also brings hygroscopic salts, nitrates, and chlorides. By removing 1.5m of plaster, you are effectively eliminating any contaminated plaster.

🔵 Holes are drilled into the mortar (usually the first layer of mortar after the first row of bricks from the floor) at the perpend junctions. So approximately every half-brick. The depth of the hole depends on the depth of damp proofing rod you require. We use Dry Rods, which come in lengths of 180mm that can be cut to size. For walls thicker than 9”, multiple rods can be combined.

🔵 The damp proofing rods are inserted into the pre-drilled holes and left to cure. Each rod contains exactly the right amount of water repellent material – known as silane concentrate.

🔵 Once cured, the silane concentrate seeps into the wall to form an extremely effective damp barrier. It will dry out the damp wall 𝘢𝘯𝘥 stop rising damp from setting back in. As John demonstrates, you can actually see this happening. Once the water repellent material from one perpend has seeped sufficiently to reach the next, you know that the barrier has been formed.

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Best video of this so far. I was wondering how some sticks on a wall would stop the damp but you have explained it well. Thank you champ

eastpakg
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“Done right ! And that’s what it’s all about “ . Love it !

davidrussell
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Atlast a video showing the affects of these dryrods. Only took me 3 hours to find this vid but good job I did. Thank you for the info buddy.

alwynmaguire
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Okay, now I get it. thank you my friend!
As I understand, you are saying, the moisture in the wall, draws out the DryRod chemical which, now in solution, migrates through the brick towards the next rod, making a waterproof barrier.
Thank you.
A previous explanation stated that DryRod soaks up the moisture. That would be impossible to soak up every rainstorm into a course of absorbent rods. Thanks Mate, respect 👊 (🇨🇦)

johnburns
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Good Video, I use the cream myself. The rods can be expensive to purchase especially from Safeguard. Even if you drill right through the brick course, which is rare, you can tell if you do drill straight through. I always find-out the thickness of the walls before drilling and even if you do drill through the cream is injected at very low pressure and you draw the applicator out while injecting so only a small amount is lost. Also make sure you hoover all the dust out of the holes before injecting.

davidellis
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Great video thanks l thought they went outside ? And also when a builder did ours -outside - he then mortered them in ....ls that right pleases, and do they keep working
Many thanks for any advice

jenseninterceptor
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Thanks for this great video. I have a question, if I may. I have a single skin kitchen wall in a Victorian property where there is rising damp. The other side of the wall is exposed in the sense that there is nothing on the other side - back on to paving in my garden. That other side is the outside which is rendered. Well known damp companies have inspected and recommended a chemical dpc but also tanking the wall. There is no evidence of penetrating damp. If I were to simply insert these rods, would there be a need for tanking the wall as well? I just dont understand the point of tanking as the rods should deal with the rising damp and there is no penetrating/lateral damp. Tanking here seems only a way for companies to make money.

janbob
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Hi there, fantastic video! Great to see them in action. I'm looking to install dry rods in unused exposed brick fireplace. Would this be suitable for an area of exposed brick? I worry the bleeding/patching of the product may make the bricks look unsightly, or does it soak into the brick and eventually dry?

samwalker
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viewers i got to say this guy knows what he is talking about i have been in this industry since 1986 and i totally agree with the videos he is putting out well done to you sir your are truly one of the good guys

andyman
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Great vid. Is this just for internal walls or can it be use externally, or do you have to have a machine for external walls?

swwolf
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How deep into the brick do you drill? Thanks for the video

DrGHMD-xrgn
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Thanks for the explanation. I was wondering how these rods form a waterproof barrier for the gap/distance in between them. So the waterproof material seeps into the mortar/cement/brick after the chemical reaction starts taking place.

aqwaaqwa
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Great video and thanks for the advice. My 1930's external walls are pebbledashed down to 1 course of brick above ground which is at a height of 75mm, the exposed brick course is covered with a black bitumen type paint. Question: do I drill the bricks just under where the pebbledash finishes even though I cant see the perps clearly or should I drill through the pebbledash on 150mm height from ground at 120mm intervals and then cover the holes with the mortar compound ? appreciate your help please.

javadchohan
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Thanks for this explanation 👍 one question, can this chemical bleed through the plaster and affect the paint finish ? I’m planning on doing it behind the skirting board. Thanks

neevisits
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Great video, I plan on using these on an older building with solid walls about 400mm thick. I was going to drill and insert rods from both sides. One side is plastered and the other is pointed stone, will the rod pints always appear wet?

davidmason
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Thanks for the video and explanation, much appreciated.
Question, my builder has used these rods on the outside wall, whereas you have used in the inside. Is there a difference or doesn't it matter. Thanks.

Chalky
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If doing externally at 150mm off the deck which turns out to be the existing dpc level can they be drilled through the old dpc?

gmafh
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great video thanks. do you think this will work for where we can't add a damp course as the side of the wall is internal? and do they need to be replaced or is it a one off? thanks

jamesalan
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Question, if drilling a solid wall( 1930s house no cavity) would you drill through all the way from the inside, or half of brick thickness from both sides? What about the strength and structure of the wall after drilling? When do you cement fill the holes ?

JasonKlass-rw
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Can you do this from outside wall instead of inside

NighatYAS
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