Dock and Anchor Lines - Polyester or Nylon?

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Dock and mooring lines can be made out of different kinds of rope. This week we look at nylon, polyester double and eight braid, and discuss anchor and mooring snubbers. Are you interested in learning about which rope line to use while anchoring or mooring your boat? Chime in in the comments and let us know what you have to share!

Practical Sailor is your trusted resource for reviews of sailboats and sailing gear.

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Thanks for that excellent video and the simple explanation of the different types of material. I have cruised for 60 years and more on the West coast of Scotland, right from before there were any marinas...I know...hard to believe...and have had numerous boats form 33 to 50 feet. We always anchored because there was no alternative except in a harbour where you could occasionally tie alongside for re-fuelling etc. We always had all chain, no rope-rode, and the waters are quite deep. OK, the bitter-end was rope! Anyway, even on out last sailboat, a 33' centre-cockpit Moody, we had 40 fathoms, ok...240'...of 3/8 galvanised calibrated chain which may be thought of as overkill, but we never dragged anchor (a 45lb CQR, nothing fancy). Obviously, racing was not something we did, so the extra weight was not a problem, indeed, in heavy seas, the weight forward really helped to punch through the waves, and all credit to Bill Dixon who designed the boat, that weight did not alter the waterline at all.
If we were stuck in extreme weather in a port we just let out more chain, and sometimes added a "Chum" or "Angel" but really this was never really necessary unless swinging room was restricted. I don't think many folks carry/use a Chum or Angel but I do believe it would be a very worthwhile tool for those who anchor wholly or partly with a rope rode.
For your readers who may not be familiar with a chum, it's simply a heavy lead block, or a series of lead "biscuits" which you attach around the rope or chain and lower down via a separate rope to weigh down your anchor line so causing the catenary to flatten out . Sadly, with the massive increase in the number of marinas here in Scotland, the art of anchoring is a lost art!

colinritchie
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Tim so happy practical sailor is working out for you so far😊

c.a.mcneil
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Now that’s what I call practical sailing advice

slateization
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Tim, thanks for sharing this very useful info. I was at a busy anchorage last weekend and I noticed that many boats didnt use a snubber at all (just their anchor chain into the windlass) or when they did have a snubber it was used incorrectly. Maybe a refresher on anchoring for everyone would be good in a future video?

JamuAlford
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Anchor rode won't get much sunlight at all unless you anchor in the same depth over and over again. I made a Rode Ratio chart by laser printing a spreadsheet, then highlighting the different colors, then I laminated it and double stick taped it to the inside of my anchor locker lid. I'm not worried that the highlighting will fade because the total length of time that locker will be open in the sun even over many years is insignificant.

(My method was to weave 6' of cheap poly line in my anchor rode chain at the various distances. No more squinting for a few cable ties, or flaking paint. I considered all the color codes others have used. None are easy to remember. So I used ROY G BIV which we all learn in school. So 0=RED 25=Yellow 50=Green 75=Blue 100= RED again. [For metric measurement RED=0 ORANGE=10m, Y=20m, G=30, B=40 and R=50m, Y=60m.] Works great. I learned this last year from Jon and it worked great.
When I walk forward to drop the chain I just keep the depth reading in mind. Say 22' I look on the chart for 20' and 6:1 and it says Yellow. Then I drop anchor and chain to Green (50') and then go back and reverse to set it. Then forward dropping more. Then reverse and tug on it a bit. Usually no other boats are near by so 6:1 is super secure.
When I made the chart/wove the color strands, I forgot to add in the height of the deck to the water, so I just lean over and watch for the color poly to go about half way under the surface. I think this is more reliable than any chain counter. And if I was worried about my poly fading, I'd drop the color below the surface. )

WillNGo
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Thanks for the info, newbie here, a sunfish for a summer, got to go out on a 72' out to the Grand Banks and back for 12 days, got hooked when we hit the blue waters, even tho got bounced around a bit in a storm . Been shopping around for a motorsailer something on the smaller size like 26-30' for my first boat, so I appreciate your channel for being straight forward with the pro and con of sailing, again Thank You

bkay
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We have an o'day 222. For day/night anchorage we find a fortress anchor with 16ft of oversized chain and nylon rope to be perfect for most situations. For a couple times a season and keeping it clean. I expect it to last a while. Being in crowded places 6:1 is usually all we can get.

tylerturcotte
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Good review. May I add two additional things to consider when buying line. First, line is cheap and long-lasting, buy the best. Don't buy from Amazon, eBay or other bulk sellers. Buy locally from a chandler's shop. You will pay more money, but the buying experience is worth the added expense. Second, oversize, oversize, oversize ... . In most cases, buying the largest size line that does not bind is a good practice.

Paul-kw
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Tim, thank you so much for all your videos! I have been watching and learning for a long time, never having set foot on a sailboat. We'll I bought my first boat yesterday, a parker dawson 26. I can't wait to apply the things you're showing me to this old girl. I've had power boats most of my life and wanted to slow down and learn a new skill so sailing should fit the bill. I am very nervous about heeling too much or being overpowered by a gust. It just seems from watching all the YouTube sailors that it can happen real quick. I never thought about line stretch affecting sail shape 🤔. I already love the challenge of learning all this stuff. Thanks again for all your advice ✌️

repaircollc
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Thanks for the thoughtful approach and well delivered message. I always learn something from you and really appreciate all the hard work you do for the community.

donlindell
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I have had me boat for less than a year and I was just looking to replace some sheets and this video gives me good points to research. I appreciate it.

ddveteran
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The first ever boat collision I ever had involved anchor rode. In a crowded anchorage I was slowly motoring my sailboat, crossing in front of an anchored sailboat about 50' in front of it. All of a sudden I realized my boat was somehow out of control and I was heading straight at the boat I was passing, being drawn somehow into it"s bow. We collided with a bang. I initially didn't know how it happened. The naked owner of the boat came out of the cabin angry, swearing, and yelling at me for causing the collision. Only then did I see the issue. He was using a floating polypropylene rope instead of a chain rode to his anchor in the shallow harbor. In the calm air his anchor rope floated straight up from his anchor and floated about 50' at or just below the surface of the water and could not be seen. My keel hit the rope, his anchor held, and my boat was drug by his floating rope into his bow. Nothing but my sailing skills was injured as I apologized to him attempting to quiet his anger as he continued to make a scene in the harbor. That was until the skipper of the boat anchored next to him told both of us that he contributed to the accident by using poly rope on his anchor. The neighbor skipper then told us that he had advised him earlier that day not to use polypropylene for an anchor rode because it would not sink and be a hazard. .

donmoore
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Super excellent video and information Tim...

aquaholic
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Great information. You mentioned about sharing sailing stories. I really enjoy watching your videos as well as reading the articles in Practical Sailor. I am a long time sailor as well as cruiser. I have an interesting story that involves The Down East Circle Route, lobsters, Canadian Coast Guard, and a local hospital. Was quite the adventure that happily turned out ok and many lessons learned. Let me know if you are interested in chatting about it.

DeanTrudeau
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Hmm I need to buy some new mid ship lines now, I moved to a new marina that’s a DIY repair friendly dock, but it’s stern tie only so I had to use a couple of sail lines that were long enough to reach back past the stern to tie up, now I realize why they don’t stretch, wrong material and braid, great video Tim thanks for the lesson. Davethemmp.

davethemmp
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Your videos keep getting better. Awesome!

TheBeerme
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I use nylon 8 braid (or brait) for mooring lines. I like it because it has a soft hand and stows better than three strand or other styles. It is more susceptible to chafe and snagging, but I buy it in bulk when it is on sale and simple make up new lines every few years. I have three strand nylon spliced onto the end of my 150' of chain, but have only used it maybe 3-4 times here in Maine. When I replace that line I will probably use 8 strand nylon.

todddunn
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Ok. I'm second. Thanks for sharing Tim.😊

erichyney
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Goede uiteenzetting welke lijnen te gebruiken🎉
Zie al mijn hele vaarleven dat mensen bezuinigen op goede lijnen en ankers incl kettingen.
Kijk in de winter naar afgemeerde boten😢?
Dure yachten, miserabele lijnen vaak gebruikt.
Bedankt voor deze uiteenzetting 🎉😊

corvavw
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My line puzzle is on the other end of the spectrum. I've always used polyester double braid for sail controls. But my new(ish) RS Aero came with high density polyester (dyneema, spectra) control lines. I'm about to replace outhaul, cunningham, and reefing lines on a small catalina capris. I'm almost sure plain old polyester double braid is right but not sure if I'm being old-fashioned.

MikeBonnieMartin
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