Hardest Route in Italy | Wonderland 9b/9b+ | Adam Ondra

Even though the crag is called Terra Promessa (Promised Land), I hadn't thought that it would once host Arco's and Italy's hardest route ⚡. The hard routes around 8b and 8c were developed mainly by Reini Scherer in the late 90s and since the development of this crag has mostly stopped. There were still quite a few spots where the rock was untouched, but the question was if it would go. Alfredo Webber, once again, saw this wonderful line, put the effort, and placed the bolts, but the question mark was about the very beginning. I found a detour slightly to the left using a few very slopy pinches and tiny crimps, replaced 3 bolts, and it was obvious that line was possible!

We worked on the route for a few days in the autumn with @steghiso. Eventually, I felt I was quite close to sending, but despite this winter being extremely dry, this crag is not exactly winter crag and the crucial tufa kept seeping. The route dried up in March and after a few days of work, I did the first free no-fall ascent through "Wonderland", some of my proudest first ascents!
Regarding the grade, I know it is considerably harder than most of the 9b's, but if it really breaks into the 9b+ barrier, it is really difficult to know...

Timecodes:

00:00 - Intro
01:00 - Adam Ondra talks about the project on Terra Promesa (Masone, Arco)
02:13 - Working out a climbing route (kneebar, crux move…)
03:06 - First light tries
03:56 - Broken hold after the crux
04:23 - The first real good try
06:28 - The end of the first day on Terra Promesa
06:54 - The second day? Today is not the day!
07:21 - Alfredo Weber talks about Terra Promesa crag
09:18 - The third day - the first try: 2 mistakes
11:28 - Pushing just too much
12:20 - The fourth day
13:35 - The beginning part of the Wonderland 9b/9b+
14:19 - The kneebar
15:25 - The crux
18:29 - The anchor of route Wonderland 9b/9b+
18:50 - Adam talks about the ascent with Alfredo, Pietro Dalpra and his wife Iva
20:06 - Why the grade 9b/9b+?
20:30 - Funny outro

ENGLISH SUBTITLES ARE AVAILABLE IN THE VIDEO SETTINGS
ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA

Get AO Photo Book + Free Signed Postcard

Have you seen this video of mine ?!

Thumbnail picture by: Petr Chodura

Special thanks to
Alfredo Webber
Pietro dal Pra
Mauro Mabboni

Story by
Adam Ondra

Directed & edited by
Laco Korbel

Camera
Pavel Klement
Laco Korbel
Jan Vogl
Stefano Ghisolfi

Production
Kateřina Kuřátková
Jan Verner
Jakub Pína

Subtitles by
Jarka Marčeková

© 2022 AO Production s.r.o.

Songlist
Fugu Vibes - Rusty Telescope
Sirus Music - Cave Crystals
DeKibo - Spirit of Wars
Life is an epic film - Get your way

#climbing #rockclimbing #mammut @mammut

[srylagg]

No matter which route, Adam will always be able to find a knee bar

[sapphicalix]

I’m chronically ill and disabled and mostly bed-bound at this point in constant, severe pain. I’m only 30 and I feel like my life is pretty much over. Lately I’ve been obsessed with watching climbing videos, videos of mountaineering, surfing videos. and videos of thru hikes. It helps me forget about my life for a little while and daydream that I could do those things in another life, had I been healthy. I’m in awe of the things you can do. Never take your health for granted. You never know how important it is until it’s gone.

[AllegraClimbingPsychologist]

Shout out to Alfredo, for recognizing that chipping was a mistake and saying in front of a camera that he did it as well. That is what I call self development! Sei una leggenda!

[themanissam]

We all know Adam is the best around when it comes to climbing. But his team is now starting to produce some of the best climbing videos too. Great work!

[structuralclimbing]

The flow when Adam sends the route is amazing, so much control, inhale and exhale, speed, technique and the iconic SCREAMS.... everything fits perfectly, the music is great too. Good work, incredible.

[surferderek]

I like how you include your weird days. Shows that even one of the best climbers in the world is human and has off days. Shows how hard u work to be one of the best if not the best

[limekrhythm]

a few years ago, movies like this where a part of stuff like reel rock festivals. Now its just on YouTube. Amazing production quality.

[Landolini]

Amazing video as always! I love that you include some of the history behind a route and the crags and that you interview legends like Alfredo Weber. Adams perfect technique is also always a pleasure to watch :D

[christopherbell]

Wow the story telling, climbing, and atmosphere was absolutely stunning in this video! You had me captivated the whole time

[whatfffd]

Adam, yourself and your crew are absolutely amazing. The locations, the editing, the story behind actually sending your routes are always a joy to watch and experience. Thank you to everyone that puts so much effort into making these epic climbing videos. Above all thank you Adam for being a wonderful human being and being a badass climber to boot 👍

[randomperson]

Climbing aside, these videos are getting better and better! The cinematography and use of music is amazing!

[pablolorenzosanchez]

I mean, these videos are simply amazing. Congrats to adam and the team

[harismichail]

Really liked the editing in this one. Edited like a movie kinda. Really got me into it

[shipper]

Fascinating that even after all these hours on the route - you may still find a new move

[Strythee]

Uploading videos of this quality every one or two weeks is really insane, it's always a pleasure and you inspire all of us Adam !

[bertycx]

In this video I learnt that Adam really knows his body and understands how to listen to it. That is truly impressive and is the mark of the best athletes

[viniopini]

Absolutely amazing! There is no one like Adam. Also great music choice! thank you

[patrickbryant_]

Amazing climb and excellent film making! I loved the description and editing on the part describing the micro beta errors that lead to your fall. Fascinating and so clearly told.

[Euroholds]

Best in the business climbing an amazing route and being filmed by the bests in their business.
Congrats! Also Huge thanks to Alfredo for the honest words

[ArinaThomsen]

This is an awesome video. The music on the approach gave me the same feeling as "Arrival" (2016) - something incredible and totally breaking the ground is going to happen right now - and the happiness of the sent that everyone shared with Adam was just infectious. Congratulations, Adam!