We Rebuilt the Chopper and Met State Troopers!

Eastwood is your DIY Automotive Powder Coating Authority
We took the front shock off of the monster chopper and added two softer air shocks. Ethan also rebuilt the rear hub to handle the torque of the motorcycle and geared the bike higher for more top speed!

PO BOX 2370
Sandpoint ID
83864

[valpilags]

I worked as a Tool and Die Maker for over 40 years so I have a few tips for you.
---To machine hardened steel use the carbide from a concrete drill, set the center of the top surface of the carbide about .030 of a inch below center and slope it down at around 5 degrees, machine at a very slow speed and use NO coolant or lubricant, it will cut like a hot knife thru butter. Concrete drills can drill holes through milling cutter shanks, which are usually around 58 to 60 Rc.
--To straighten a shaft, heat with a torch, localized on the outer curvature of the shaft, till it turns blue, then quickly quench with wet rags. This method will pull a shaft up to .060, but if the bend is more, run a bead with a welder, again on the outer curvature and again quickly quench with wet rags, this method will pull a shaft up to and exceeding .125 of a inch, the excess weld can be removed without the shaft bending back.
--When welding hardened steel, always preheat the steel or the welds will crack or fail.
--If you ever want to weld cast iron, always preheat and weld with a Inconel or nickel welding rods, then let it slowly cool off, never quench in water or oil cause the weld will crack or fail.
--To drill a long shaft or flange on the milling machine, clamp a large V-block on it's side, clamp the shaft to the V, side the top of the mill out, yes they do move and even swivel, so you can hang longer pieces over the edge of the mill. You should be able to get a 90 degree head to drill horizontally, if you want to do it that way.
--Never, ever weld on a lathe, the beads could warp, arcs could form between the gears in the gear box and even fry the electronics of it. If you still have your old lathe around, use it instead. If you have no choice ground the part directly, a magnet works well, grounding through a live center will ruin the bearings in the center.
I hope that this helps you in the future.

[elios]

remember when someone said "you sure it'll have enough power for those wheels?"

I mean.... it bent the shaft 180° idk dude you tell me

[jdllewellyn]

Hey man, I doubt anyone from the channel will see this, but I ran my own powder coating business for a few years before moving towards fabrication/racing more. If you want any tips or data to improve your technique and results, shoot me a message. I'd be happy to share what I learned the hard way. Even with that grabby dual voltage gun you can get decent results.

Start with a better ground, move your gun back a bit to make a better cloud formation, watch your mil thickness, and all cure schedules start at PMT (part material temp) not when the powder flows out. You can flow out powder to a liquid long before its beginning to cure just by flashing the heat.

Regardless, best of luck.

[MarkBlance]

The cops were really funny here. And that's exactly what a creation like this should do.

[Sealhunt]

Honestly, when i saw the title of this video, I thought the State Troopers were going to give you grief, but to my surprise, they were super-chill and got a massive kick out of your work. Very cool! The new drive chain and bolts really make the new drive shaft assembly - and the bike as a whole - really pop.

[Hawk]

Finally got a decent lathe, "I can trust that it's going to stay accurate"... proceeds to use it as a welding fixture...

[adamxtremefishenthusiasts]

You should switch the back tire with the front tire so you can level that one out too😂

[josephdavis]

My favorite statement from the ISP...."oh look, that tire has a bike on it". 😂😂

I feel like in the rural parts of Idaho those cops are thinking, that's unique but not the weirdest thing I've seen out here.

[mechticulous]

Hey Ethan! If you need to Un-harden most any steel, stop for lunch or dinner and have a barbecue (or just in a good fire) and get it to cherry red and set it in a oven or microwave to cool. Should take the hardness out of most anything except air hardening steel or something more exotic that I have no knowledge of.😅 You're my Hero and Keep Grinding.❤

[JB-rwxt]

As a 40 year vet in the powder coating industry I would suggest investing in a walk in gas fired oven and a small spray booth. Gas fired will give you a more uniform cure and color consistency between batches. You have the space and this will allow you to coat bigger parts like fenders, tanks and wheels with better quality than you’ll get with the Eastman outfit which is essentially a hobby kit. Also there is a ton of used powder coating dolly equipment with powder gun, controller and hopper online. I would suggest a mini hopper for small batches. Finally you can get small samples of powder cheap and sometimes free from dealers.

[isaaczondag]

I've powder-coated for many years and I recommend buying an old metal cabinet, insulating it, and turning it into a large oven with a temperature heat switch. This will allow you to coat much larger parts like control arms, swing arms, frames, etc. Then while coating hang the parts from a rack so you can just throw them right in the oven without messing up the powder. Also wrinkle black is by far the best color and the most durable.

[DJSekuHusky]

Those tires were intended to go on a fixed axis of travel, with the camber angle creating one contact patch without introducing greater drag. Usually the weight of the vehicle would also restrict its top speed.

Once you freed the axis of the tire and increased the rotational speed, that deformation at speed is exactly your death wobble, since you're not only dealing with the centrifugal forces stretching the tire outward, but the change in direction is visible changing the shape of the deformation of the contact patch from edge to edge (you can see it in the silhouette on the horizon). Where it cups inward you have 2 sides fighting for the same traction with slightly different angular momentum.

On a smaller scale, I've had this happen with sawtooth dolly tires on a mini bike... I was waiting on new tires to ship to me and only needed them for a few days before they arrived, but as soon as the speed got past a certain limit with those flat-bottom tires, the wobbles were absolutely terrifying.

As soon as I went back to the racing "slicks" I ordered that had a more tapered curve to a centrally rounded contact-patch (and higher pressure rating), no more death wobble.

Its a combination of the composition and intended use of the tire coupled with the change in load-applied geometry that's making them work against you. Overpressure might improve the shape, but then you have to consider the temperature change and the lower speed composition, so maybe try overpressure _with_ a Nitrogen fill to improve performance, that way it doesn't continue expanding once they're heated up.

[alexcox]

This bike is some of the best content and engineering on YouTube... love the bike man!

[Goatee_yay]

Put the steering damper to the upright so it's pre slop in cables and bell crank.

If you want it even more rigid, remove the steering bell crank. You only have to change the length of the cable end to the cable body. If you mount the cable body to the steering tube arm (handle bars) and solid mount the cable ends, you eliminate the bell crank and it's slop.

[MoondyneJoe]

Ethan, you mentioned the monster bike was a beast to turn, years ago when I first started riding bikes a mate gave me this tip, you may already know it but if not it might help if you are going around a bend for example TRY pushing or pulling the opposite handlebar only a few MILLIMETRES it is counter intuitive to what you feel is right but it will get the bike into the curve or bend very quickly DO NOT push or pull excessively or you will end closer to the road more than you ever wanted
It is how the bike racing guys get right over corner to corner very quickly and very low if needed practice carefully until muscle memory can be trusted to do it automatically.
Tony from Western Australia 🇦🇺

[EdwinOlding]

I have never seen state trooper that far in the middle of nowhere! Let alone two…

[johncashwell]

Gotta love Idaho State Troopers! They are really one of the better state police/highway patrol agencies. As a former LEO, back in the 1990s, I have seen the slow transformation of many law enforcement agencies from a "Protect & Serve/Community Policing" type of agencies into "Paramilitary/Us v. Them" agencies. In my opinion, Idaho is still firmly rooted in the reality that they are a part of the communities in which they serve and have not been somehow elevated to preside over those people in their domain.

[alienfac]

i can just watch Ethan build for hours. such a vibe. not having forced jokes also helps. The edits are amazing in the video. love the bike. thank you.

[RastaBIasta]

I think a triple Öhlins setup would be perfect for this build. With the hydraulic reservoirs.

[TussinWulf]

I used to do the screen image comparison too in fusion360!!! pro tip: if you have a printer you can print a flat image schematic of your part at 100% scale (that way you're not guessing the zoom) and use the printed schematic to compare your part to the schematic. It takes a little work removing margins and what not from your printer settings but ive used it to cnc cut guitar pick guards and i usually print the schematic in tiles (usually 4 11X8.5 sheets) and then tape them together. its been a huge help just having the paper around instead of scuffing up my laptop screen lol. then i just roll them up and put them away for future reference. You're actually one of the people that inspired me to switch to fusion360 and i've had a blast since. Nice work!