Pro Patternmaker Reacts to Common Fitting Myths

Our professional patternmaker, Robin, is a special guest on this podcast episode. Robin's been patternmaking with us at Seamwork for more than 7 years. Prior to that, she worked in the ready-to-wear apparel industry as a pattern maker with companies like Patagonia, Ugg, and Hanna Anderson.

And today, she's here to bust 5 common fitting myths.

*Video Chapters*
01:09 - Myth 1
05:08 - Myth 2
07:24 - Myth 3
10:08 - Myth 4
14:39 - Myth 5
20:56 - Recap

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I'm Sarai, the founder of Seamwork, and I want to help you sew clothing you'll love to wear. Along with our designer Haley, I create videos to help you design your wardrobe, pick the right fabric, master new skills, and increase your confidence – so you can sew anything you want.

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[skyhowie]

This was one of the most informative videos you've ever produced; thank you! By all means, please do another video with Robin.

[SewingandCaring]

Hi it's me, I'm the complete so-and-so who never has to fit. My top half is exactly a seamwork size 10 and my bottom half a seamwork 12 so it's just a case of grading from one line to another around the middle, for a reference point the modern set of big 4 sizing correlates to a 14 top, 16 bottom. Seamwork is way more consistent though, at this point I'll just grade on the A0 and cut into the good fabric right away - this level of trust in a pattern company was well well worth signing up for, as the time it saves me not in faffing around more than covers the cost.

[alisonwhite]

Fitting a pattern to MY body is a new concept for me. Thank you for the clarifications.

[metteriggs]

Excellent show, ladies! Thank you very much for sharing your expertise!

[amyleighharrison]

Wow. Great info. Pattern making is an art!

[glittermytimbers]

I’m very curious about the career trajectory to become a pattern drafter? I am self taught, but I have worked to get fairly proficient at it. I’m ready for a career change, but not sure what direction to go. I would love to learn more about Robin’s career, if she is willing to share. ❤️

[Propfaqs]

I know I have to lower the bust on most patterns but I never considered that the issue might be also at the armhole. So, I guess I should try that…

[ppyofnj]

Very Interesting and Informative! Thank you Ladies!

[MlsBc]

Hi I’m another person with a shoulders and frame size difference with my bust measurements. I’m 5’7” with small bones and 32 G bust. Fitted clothes are difficult…

[teresaaltman]

I like a lot of ease such as tunics, not an issue for me. But run into issues with most patterns being too wide at shoulder/neck hole. I like the V neck line but if it’s designed too wide for me then it falls off shoulder. I recently created a center seam in front in hopes of pulling in the shoulder line and shortening the V. Obviously unsure of what I’m doing.
Thank you

[mustsaythis]

How come I can buy ready to wear in a certain size in many different brands and it fits but clothes patterns usually need lots of adjustment????

[carolinedelisle]

It does sound from this video that you know what you are talking about. Then why are the samples that you make every month so ill fitting on the plus size models compared to the smaller model? It is frustrating, demeaning and makes it looks like Seamwork has no idea how to draft larger size or doesn’t care.
For example, the West top was riding up the front of the larger model when It doesn’t on the line drawings or the smaller model. It looks like it was sewn without accounting for the fact that more length was needed for her bust size. The Baker dress looks like it is designed to have an horizontal line below the bust but the sample has a line that cuts right across the larger model’s chest.
I could go on.

[apwhoa]

I am wanting to “Grock” all this information but I am a visual learner that it starts to turn into “word vomit”. No offense intended here, just so hard to mentally see and translate the information into a hands on understanding. If there is a way to incorporate some sketches, examples, live models… would be so so helpful.

[juliarushing]

Hi. Thank you for this video. I wonder if you could comment on this question: if due to added weight I wear a 40 DD cup bra (but body frame is still about a size 12/14 in upper chest/shoulder in ready to wear clothing), what approach to choosing pattern size are you recommending? It wasn't clear from the discussion. Thanks!