Top 10 Tips for your Voron and Klipper

It's been one month since I completed my Voron 2.4. During that time I've learned a few things that improved my prints and general use of the printer. I've combined 10 of these for this video. Some of these will apply to any core-xy printer and other Voron models as well. Some of these might apply to any printer running Klipper. These have all proven useful to me.

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Plot RPi temp:
[temperature_sensor raspberry_pi]
## Pi Temps
sensor_type: temperature_host
max_temp: 100

Plot MCU temp:
[temperature_sensor mcu_temp]
## Spider Temps
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
max_temp: 100

Have the controller fans turn on on any initial motor move:
[controller_fan controller_fan]
## Controller fan - FAN2 Connector
pin: PB2
max_power: 0.90
off_below: 0.10
kick_start_time: 0.5
heater: heater_bed, extruder
stepper: stepper_x, stepper_y, stepper_z

Exhaust Fan:
[fan_generic exhaust_fan]
## Exhaust fan - In E2 OUT Positon
pin: PB3
max_power: 1.0

[AdrianoCasemiro]

Invaluable tips here. Even for those of us who don't own a Voron. Now my Klipper bedlsinger shows MCU and host temp. Thanks, brother.

[steveh]

I'm just starting to read about Voron 2.4 printer characteristics. This video is an excellent example of important tips clearly presented in full detail without a lot of rambling repetition that makes some other video tutorials almost unbearable. Really great advice presented with high quality video, audio, narration, and content! Subscribed.

[overtorquednut]

Every single one of these tips helped me out in some way. I didn't necessarily set everything up the exact same way, but this video taught me how to get them the way I wanted. Thanks, Kapman!

[turbotrix]

Amazing Job! These Straight to the point easy to understand videos unlike some confusing ones out there and it enabled me to further enhance my Voron 2.4 easy in depth instructions! Keep Them

[justinlee]

Hi, one thing to remember with the filtered exhaust fan is that while you print with it off, your printer is not air-tight... so any nasty fumes you are afraid of will slowly seep out during the print. By having the exhaust fan on during the print, it creates a negative pressure inside the enclosure. This theoretically prevents that unfiltered air from seeping through openings and sucks clean air into the case from those openings instead as the unclean air is exhausted by the filtered fan. :)

[fprumbau]

Very helpful. I had some of your issues with my V2.2658, too. And a lot of tricks I did not know of. Thank you very much!

[alanb]

I've been running the same smooth PEI sheet for years, and have had to sand, steel wool, acetone, etc to improve adhesion. One thing is to use brass wool, steel wool leaves steel fragments which the magnets get a hold of, and the bits also rust, so avoid steel. Brass wool or stainless steel scrubbers solve this, however a better solution is Aquanet extra hold unscented hairspray. Now I just periodically clean the steel sheet and put a light mist of Aquanet over it. Then I print on it with PLA, PETG or TPU. I haven't tried ABS on it but have read that it works there too. No more sanding, no more cleaning between prints at all (just don't contaminate the surface with finger oil, never touch it, use tools only). The misting only needs to be done occasionally, not between each print. It seems to renew the surface of the PEI. I would make sure the Aquanet is fresh before TPU because it wants to over-adhere. PETG does also, but to a lesser degree. Water dissolves Aquanet so cleanup is just rinsing off the plate with water, very little IPA is needed for a final wipe down. Then a fresh mist coat of Aquanet and back to printing. Some dust may adhere but it doesn't affect print surface quality.

[lukasmatzinger]

Very helpful, thanks for sharing! It would be even more useful if you could add your config code to the description of the video, so we can just copy and paste it and not make any mistakes. Thanks for the your help!

[danxDD]

Hey, just wanted to point out that the z steppers for me were super noisy and rattled the entire printer. Since its 4 motors running the gantry i set the run current to 1A and the hold to .5, as well as setting stealth chop to 5000. The z noise is almost gone, and print quality improved due to no extra resonance.

[ReneJethmal]

A note on Raspberry Pi temps, max for the SOC is 85C and the ethernet port can handle up to 70C.

[cotycollins]

While having more contact area with the stepstick is better, the thickness of the fins is a drawback. The thicker the fins, the more heat they retain, where as the thinner, the more room you have to fit more fins, meaning more surface area which leads to more heat transfer.

[motelgrim]

The only thing with increasing the microsteps is you exponentially increase the workload of the MCU. Going from 16 to 64 quadruples the instructions sent and processed every second (or millisecond? I forget) which taxes the processor. On lower end boards and/or weaker PI alternatives this might be an issue.
Food for thought.

[avongil]

Great video. My screws were also too long! I have one of the first blurolls kits with pretty bad beds - I alleviated the problem by using pei tape on the low spots on top of the magnet.

[perfectscotty]

Great video, Valuable information. Thanks for making this video.

[KPGsolar]

very well done, thank you for this! points me in the right direction just a day before building my new 2.4 will be finished 🙂

[Hopeinformer]

This was very helpful. Thank you so much.

[bernard]

This is awesome, thank you. My Blurolls just arrived, so the timing is perfect ☺️

[Festivejelly]

Great well presented video. Im about to start my voron build shortly, handy to know all this.

[misterx]

Very usefull tips!
Thanks for sharing

[linyongzheng]

Rather than using the exhaust fan software mod you have used, you might want to consider an internal circulating filter like the nevermore mod to continually filter the odor without the exterior temperature swing.