Washer Not Filling? Water Inlet Valve Testing, Troubleshooting

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Washer not filling, taking too long to fill or overflowing? This video demonstrates how to test a water inlet valve on a washing machine. The water inlet valve is a commonly replaced part for a washer that is not filling, taking too long to fill or overflowing.

Click here to purchase a replacement washer water inlet valve:

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How to disassemble your washing machine:

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All of the information provided in this part testing video is applicable to the following brands: Washer Water Inlet Valve Testing
Amana, Bosch, Frigidaire, GE, Kenmore, LG, Maytag, Samsung, Whirlpool

RepairClinic has millions of replacement parts for appliances, lawn equipment, power tools, and heating & cooling equipment including washers, dryers, dishwashers, refrigerators, lawn mowers, snowblowers, furnaces, and air conditioners. Our customer care team is available to help by phone or live chat, seven days a week: 1-800-269-2609. We guarantee the fastest shipping possible—all in-stock parts ship the same business day. Return any part for any reason with our generous 365-day return policy.

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So after educating myself on my Electrolux washer through many of these videos, I found the culprit of an error 11 in a dead coil on the water inlet valve. I was going to order the full valve assembly, but it was not in stock.. I decided that I might as well try something if we're going to replace it anyway.

I took the coil from the bleach dispensing solenoid (teal capped), fitted it with the dead coil's plastic connector cap (brown capped prewash solenoid) and did a swap. We rarely use bleach and at 180$ for the valve assembly I gave it a shot... And I have a working washer now!

Silentpaws
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This video save me from buying a new dishwasher . Thanks!

homewithj
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The water valve tested had a coil with a resistance of around 1083 ohms which is typical of most valves. The meter is zeroed out on the right side of the x10 scale. When the coil is checked the meter is reading correctly. If the coil was shorted the needle would go all the way over to the right side towards the 0 or no resistance side of the scale. If the coil was open the needle would not move at all and stay on the left side.

repairclinic
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I have used this site for several small appliance repairs and it has been wonderful. Very clear step by step instructions.  I will always come her first to look for information.

lauralamphear
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Thank you very much, my front loader stopped taking in water, I opened it up, removed the water inlet valve, tested it for currency, and it showed error, then I ordered a new part. Saved me heaps of money. Thank you so much.

pamuk
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I'm SO Non-Mechanical but I'm trying to learn from your Videos and I DID Manage (some how) to get The water to fill!
Just having troubles now putting the back on agbain with the water flowing into the bin and not all over the floor!
and those 2 questions... I really appreciate your help.
And I willl keep you in mind for any and all parts when needed!
You are great for planting up these Videos for everybody!

Peace my friend.
and Thanks Again!

ServiteJack
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Thanks so much for the testing of the solenoid coils...Easy to do and the problem was with those new "safety hoses".. The device had "shut itself off" so no water coming in from the HOT connection and made it seem like it was the timer...it was not the timer or the valves...it was the SAFETY HOSES.
WE ALWAYS SHUT OFF THE WATER TO OUR HOUSE WHEN WE LEAVE SO...THIS STUFF IS JUST A PROBLEM WAITING TO HAPPEN...THE COILS WERE GOOD, CHECKED HOSES, HOT HOSE NO GO!! CASE CLOSED...THANK YOU, THANK YOU..

bmmcbx
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The pressure switch is good. The technician does not know what's wrong. The fill valves will not open to let water in if the fill valve solenoids do not get the 120V to operate

filiposua
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I have no continuity but when I tested the incoming power while the washer machine had power I was not get 120v on 32v would I also have another electrical issue?

Manuel-keej
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Hi, thank you this technique worked. What about if the tub overfills?

jasontt
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Thank you...You don't know how much help this is...I am in North Borneo and without technical help...I try to repair what I can myself...I replaced the washing machine drum and lasted over a year now gone dead...The company said test the water supply valve...Had no idea how to till now... 

peverill
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Thanks alot, your video was very helpful.

muhammadaqdas
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This worked perfectly for me. One of the Cold-Water solenoids was open. This matched what I saw ..I used the hand wash and tried first hot only and then cold water and saw only a slow drip for the cold-water hand wash. Replaced the cold-water solenoid and all is well. Thank you for the video. I have a Maytag machine model MVWX655DW1.

antpat
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Great little video. Tested my valve and indeed the cold side was dead electrically.

allensanderson
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If no power is getting to the valve you will need to trace the power back and see where you are losing it, (pressure switch, timer etc.) A valve coil can still show continuity and not let water thru. The thermistor is usually a high resistance so it will not show on a meter unless you use the higher settings.

repairclinic
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I had the same problem and found on a repair comment board that it was a disconnected water inlet tube. Take off the top with the two back screws and check the small hose connected to the bottom of the round water inlet sensor. Mine was at the front right.

stephenbarr
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Hello sir ohm values exceed 1500 ohms, is it ok?

yakyeay
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My coil getting 4.8k ohm and inlet voktage is 130v, now is it ok

riyaazmohammed
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my washer fills fine on wash cycle but only fills about one third of the way on the rinse cycle . are there 2 different fill valves? i have a 2015 GE washing machine

iwsqkzi
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Came here to confirm coil value I was reading matched others. I was recently shipped an inlet valve with a failed coil on cold side. Beware of cheap knockoff parts. Replacing with a USA-made OEM part for a few bucks more.

jeffweber