How To Make A Generator Exhaust Extension Kit

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In this video, I show you how to make a generator exhaust extension kit. You can extend your generator's exhaust by following these easy DIY steps. There is no welding involved and all of the parts can be easily found at your local home improvement store and amazon. This allows you to get the exhaust fumes out of your generator enclosure, garage, RV, etc. In this video I was creating an exhaust extension for a Cat RP12000E generator.

Products Used In The Video:
1 Inch Floor Flange: Found at your local home improvement store
1 Inch Threaded Galvanized Steel Pipe: Found at your local home improvement store

Tools Used:

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Blessings,
Adam

How To Home assumes no liability for damage or injury. How To Home highly recommends using proper safety procedures and professionals when needed. Our content is for entertainment purposes only. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not How To Home. How To Home will not be held liable for any negligent or accidental damage or injury resulting from equipment, tools, electrical, fire, electronics or any items contained in this video. Attempt projects and repairs at your own risk.
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You did a great job on this video. All these arm chair quarter backs with their comments only have the ability to make the comments because you took the initiative to do the project. Nice job. Thank you

michaelcunningham
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Great job and here's a tip, drill your flange holes first so there is plenty to clamp on to, then cut it. It will be a lot easier.

dreamsteelgarage
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Another thing you might not know about. I do fire suppression in commercial buildings and they make a caulk that is called fire stop or some say fire caulk and it has a very high temperature rating and it would actually be a good sealant for joints like your exhaust flexible pipe. It has to get up to close to a thousand degrees before it degrades and even still we'll seal I used it personally on a joint on my wood stove flu pipe and it's awesome 😎

williammarvin
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Great job. However, I would caution users to make the rigid pipe portion as short as humanly possible. If you extend the slender exhaust from the muffler any appreciable distance, it will create non-trivial back pressure if the diameter of the pipe is not vastly increased. I do not have the software necessary to simulate it, so I arbitrarily used a 2 in flexible exhaust repair section, then transition to a 4-in semi rigid aluminum dryer duct. You may wish to use an insulated furnace pipe thimble, when your pipe passes through your structure. Keep up the great work!

TWTH
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Real nice job on the shed build. I just came across your channel, so that’s the reason for the late response. Quite a few of the questions asked we’re about adding a muffler to the exhaust pipe that you fabricated. Mufflers are available made specifically for generators, as opposed to using a auto muffler. While a muffler will help with reducing the sound, a significant amount of the sound actually emanates from the vibration when the generator is placed on a hard surface. A rubber mat of some type would help significantly in that respect. Hopefully with these two additions it might just keep the grumpy neighbors happy.

purplesocks
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This is what I used on my 12, 000 watt generator, was worth every penny I paid, and it cut noise output by better than 50%. It sits on a concrete pad I poured specifically for the generator, with a piece of rubber on top of the slab (made from an old pickup truck bed liner. I built a roof over the generator out of corrugated fiberglass roofing material that is attached to two pieces of 2 X 2 tap coned to the building with a angle cut 2 X 2 attached to the free side of the roof back on a 45 degree angle to the building attached again using tap con’s. I also bolted the generator frame to the slab with 2 - 1” EMT conduit securing brackets, w lead shields into the concrete using security bolts. (Making it harder for someone to steal.)
To further lesson noise emitted I attached 1” rigid foam board to a couple pieces of exterior grade plywood and made a free standing “L” Shaped wall 4’ high for both sides of the generator open to the yard, which I can place about 3’ away from the generator as a noise shield. The generator is placed in a corner of the house, so two sides are facing towards the block wall. Located about 75’ from the road. When running at full load the generator cannot be heard from the road. In a SHTF situation you need to make your generator as inconspicuous as possible as you do not want to attract thieves. It’s also a good idea to place a person as a sentinel who is armed standing guard in the event someone comes skulking around.
I’ve made it almost impossible to steal it having bolted it to the slab, the generator also weighs in at 217 pounds so it would take two guys to lift it into the back of a pickup, after somehow removing the bolts securing it to the concrete slab.
I’m contemplating adding a box fan as supplemental cooling.

dennisdumas
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This video was exactly what I needed! Thank you for posting this.

AmarisJaneNYC
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Thank you for making this video. Your solutions were brilliant...yet straightforward and simple. Well done! Cheers!

davepeterson
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Hi Adam, thanks for taking the time to make and share the video. I have also made portable generator extensions and wanted to pass on my experiences. Connecting a solid pipe directly to the generator muffler has always failed for me due to vibration and metal fatigue. The pipe connecting to the muffler must be a flexible type and as light as possible. When the engine is running, there is considerable movement of the engine due to it being a large single cylinder. The flexible pipes I have found the best are the types used in front wheel drive cars, that goes between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe.

That silicone gasket maker has a maximum temperature rating of 600 degrees Fahrenheit but, with the engine running under load, I have seen the muffler reach 1, 000 (glowing red) degrees with the engine under heavy load. I would instead, file the floor flange and muffler connection flat so they don't leak or, purchase some automotive exhaust gasket material and make my own.

I would also recommend leaving the spark arrestor out of a modified exhaust system since the added pipe can easily add back pressure, reducing engine power.

billharris
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Awesome video thanks that's what I needed to help complete my generator shed and I hope to see more just like it

warrenolsen
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Great, simple (and brilliant) solution!

lstanich
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Hello my friend, I read that one of the viewers before me said this was a brilliant video. I agree you did a great job of bringing this to the public. Stay thirsty my friend

thebillbaker
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I like the way you made that part to attach to the exhaust flange. But you may want to keep in mind that your generator will be vibrating, and that long piece of pipe will also be vibrating. The flexible pipe will be a better option for you, because the long pipe will put stress on the connection that you just made, and break something on the generator, because the pipe is not the weakest link in that chain. That is why there are rubber motor mounts on this generator, and on most vehicles, there are flexible couplings on the exhaust that allow the engine to flex/vibrate and the exhaust to flex on its own. So only have a 2-3 inch piece of hard pipe, then use your flexible hose/pipe. Also, don't forget to use a piece of metal or some other piece of fire proof material where the exhaust exits the dog house wall.

jmackinjersey
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Great idea. I like how it’s not permanent. Thank you

danman
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I used the same flange for a Predator generator. To avoid cracking the flange from the vibration, I had to use pipe hangers to hold an support the pipe an extra muffler to quiet unit. An wrapped entire pipe an muffler in header wrapping.

rclark
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very nice job on the adapter. Pro tip, it would help if you drilled the holes first it would be a little safer due to more meat to hold on to.

JoshKilen
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Great video! Only comment I'd suggest drilling you holes prior to cutting the floor flange so you have more material for clamping force so it doesn't move around as much while drilling.

brucejohnson
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I modified my exhaust with a removable stack. Nothing fancy, a stub and five foot thin wall fence pipe held together with two tap screws. The bottom of the tall piece just touches the ground and is not capped. Makes big difference in noise level.

sixoffive
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Good job, I like that you can easily unscrew the pipe.

GeeWhizRS
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well thought out and a nice solution. Thanks for sharing!

wtdonovan
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