72v 12,000watt enduro Ebike build! (Step by step explanation)

Here are all the products links. Keep in mind some of these prices have gone up since I have bought so I will also make recommendations to other products . Excuse apexling errors my phone Is sort of glitching out

-frame- has gone up in price since I bought.

Zoom Forks=trash and they have gone up 100 dollors 🤨 all forks are universal so look Into something else.

All small unmentioned parts come with Included links. Total build price is about 4100.

[ENDOPRYSMyt]

Hey guys if you have any questions please ask I read all the comments and I usually get back quick. For more insight on what i do on this channel go to this channels Instagram @endoprysm.

[sickssix]

how refreshing, someone who knows what they want to say and how to say it, no convoluted explanations of the obvious, I see someone who is going places.

[rgreerjr]

I was looking for a video on someone building and detailing the process of building their ebike and I found this, here are the things I learned from this video. Pretty much everything is self explanatory and pretty easy.

[rintuut]

Wow you're problay the Best E-Bike Youtuber in this 5000w+ category FR.

My 5kw ebike (with the same frame) is now nearly finished only the Motor still missing but i Know 2 months ago I had the same questions wtf do i really need I could fugure it out after 1 or 2 days but for someone that doesnt know anything about Bikes ect it problay would be a mess.

Keep it up

[samshepherd]

Really appreciate the video bro. I've got a background in cycle mechanics but the electronics where intimidating me...
Finally a clear cut video of how to wire the hub motor.
I have new found confidence if I needed to do a tier or even full hub motor change. :)

[Ecurrie]

I have a broken one that I have to put all the parts on another frame... I'm dreading it but seeing you do this just like you did helped a lot👍

[man]

Their you go this will help alot of people step by step that are getting in to mechanics an gives other a way better idea how to build a ebike

[braedenrice]

Awesome video, awesome editing, awesome commentary. Thank you

[micusan]

I need this. I just stumbled onto your channel. Stoked.

[lukewalker]

I want to share a concept with you and your audience during your build process. The concept is 'steerer bearing pre-load'....
If you go to the fork installation section of your video, I would advise the following sequence:
But first, a couple of things:
1. Always best to press bearing cups into the steerer headtube of the frame versus pound them in with a hammer. This is because the bearing races you are pounding into the frame can distort with hammer blows which compromises the interface aka geometric agreement between the bearing and the bearing cup(s). You can you use a gigantic C-clamp and a piece of 1" thick wood. Press one bearing cup into the head tube at a tim:.
2. Always apply a thick automotive grease or equivalent to the bearings prior to assembly.

OK, this is the important part. Back to tightening sequence:

The spacers on your headset are NOT just cosmetic. They serve a purpose. What you always want for stability and to mitigate damage to your bearings while out riding is...a concept called Brinelling...look it up....is have the bearing balls tightly against the bearing cup races to reduce vibration and damage to the bearings over bumps in the roads which put small dents in the hard balls over time due to space between bearing balls and bearing cups.

For this bike build, the way to accomplish long bearing life is....
1. Install everything except handlebar without tightening anything.
2. before you tighten the top 'tree' to your fork tubes, you tighten the skinny top screw which presses down on the steerer cap and compresses the top tree through the spacers and tightly sandwiches the top and bottom bearings between the two fork trees.
3. Now you tighten the top tree bolts which firmly attach the top tree to the two fork tubes.
4. Lastly, align the stem with the fork tubes which still under preload..knock it sideways with your hand...and tighten the stem clamp bolts.

That's it. Now you have preload between the bearings and their mating bearing cups so when you go over bumps which you do every minute of every ride, the bearings won't Brinell and be ruined. But further, this is important, your bike will track much more steadily because the front end is tight...without any lash between bearings and bearing cups which promotes front end wobble due to road disturbances because without preload the front fork attachment to the frame of the bike is not solid.

Hope above helps.
You are a brilliant young man with a generous heart to share your good work with us. With your aptitude, consider going to engineering school if you love to build cool machines like this and learn about the relationships including why designs are created as they are.

Thank you for your step-by-step video. Invaluable to anybody like me and others who has interest in building a very fast e-bike.
Ride safe and have a blast!

[theworshiptraveler]

For a step by step video, you mention “this is self explanatory” about a hundred times. So much for step by step!

[rosco]

Great video, this will come in handy for my own build.

[pat_]

You chose the same brake discs as mine and they are very good, they are also floating discs which prevent them from deforming when they heat up too much, that's what I had on my big cubes when I was riding a motorcycle, I did for more than 16 years, big unbridled cube...

Tu as choisi les même disque de freins que les miens et ils sont très bien, ce sont en plus des disque flottant qui empêche qu'ils se déforment en chauffant trop, c'est ce j'avais sur mes gros cubes du temps où je faisais de la moto, j'en ai fait pendant plus de 16 ans, du gros cube débridé...

[courtvision]

hi im from Philippines, i love how you explain every step. one day i will build my own diy ebike :) thanks

[DFXKX]

I was under the impression that the spot where you routed your brake line is where the controller usually goes on these frames, That's why there wasn't a hole for the phase wires. That said, also a nice option to be able to put it inside the frame as well if you don't want that box hanging off the front. I'd probably put the charger in the spot your controller is in, and just route an ATX female adapter to the outside (or some extra circuitry and an SAE J1772 female socket as well so I can charge at public stations).

[Jetsonn]

You funny 😂😂
Loved the video thanks for sharing and hope you enjoy the bike! It looks great and looks like a blast to ride

[davidmiller]

Thanks for all the content. It is greatly appreciated. Worth it weight in gold 😊.

[boxlid]

You made one mistake when installing the fork. After sliding the fork through and adding the spacers on the steering tube, DON'T tighten the stem all the way, you want to torque down the cap to the star nut first. Once that's torqued, there's the right preload on your steering and you can then straighten the stem/bars and finish tightening them down. You basically want it to be able to slide around a little until the cap is torqued down.

[petrdjak]

Max one front disk brake adapter should be used. For example instructions from Magura are saying this rule. THANK YOU for great video!

[yohvh]

Drilling an hole?! I'm outta here.