Breaking Good

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If you Google for "aircraft cylinder break-in" you'll get about 488,000 hits. Each manufacturer (Continental & Lycoming) has a Service Bulletin about it, most PMA cylinder makers (ECi, Superior) have a procedure, and many of the custom overhaul chops (Pann Yann, Victor, RAM) have one. Some of the type clubs have one - even Shell Oil offers advice. That's a lot of reading - it's probably smarter to just read watch Mike Busch's webinar.
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How do you dislike this video?
I guess maybe he doesn't own an aircraft, because this information is vital for any aircraft owner.

charlesbrewer
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I'm doing this right now.. I use 20% Marvel Misery Oil with fresh oil [XC-20/50] run the engine like a scarred rabbit for an hour or two. Strangely enough, a minimum or goopy, sticky oil is what you want on the cylinder walls, ergo; MMO in the oil. Using steel cylinders, this works every time.

apfelsnutz
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Sometimes it all boils to cleanliness.. Even 'brand new' cylinders from the factory will still have iron oxide in the crosshatch that you wont see until you try the rag test. or maybe you just got a set back from machining, well this will work for you on both counts. You should be able to wipe the inside of the cylinder with a fresh white painters rag and not leave a mark on the cloth, if the cloth is soiled, then you need to wash the cylinder down with a mix of warm water and dish detergent or purple power and a 360 degree nylon bristle scrubbing brush.. do it for a couple of minutes at least. Then rinse the cylinder under running water until clean and blow off all moisture with shop air (it is important to make sure it is dry, because exposed iron can start oxidising in no time. blow it ountil ff, dry it off with fresh rag and then you wanna get some acetone, fresh white rag and liberally dunk the rag in it and wipe the total inside of the cylinder off until you can take a fresh white painters rag and run it through the cylinder and get no mark on it and make sure the cylinder is 100% dry. Once you are here you want to take some WD40 (or whatever water displacer you may use) and spray the jug off inside and out, and you can then store the cylinder wrapped in gladwrap until it is time to use it, or install it onto your engine.

I wonder if the Wright Brothers or Lindberg would approve of the state and cost of general aviation if they were given a glimpse into the future just for a minute? .. I think they would have a pretty egalitarian view on things and would hate the fact that people are excluded ... over to you

shoominati
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The honing can or can't be done at '1/2 depth' to leave flats between grooves because it is an abrasive processes. It is scoring the surface and every tiny scratch results in a corresponding raise on each side like a burr. So using a finer grit will have have both finer scores and finer burrs but not scores and no burrs.

JosephHHHo
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Mike's pace being a tad slow since he's speaking off the cuff, but clearly enunciated, these are perfect when run at 1.5 speed.

JK-rvtp
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Mile always a pleasure watching your videos.

almarasco
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What’s stopping a cylinder from glazing after the break in and filling those grooves?

Alex-usvw
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I am about (this weekend) about to break in a factory overhauled IO520 ….any advice on prop setting ? If i go north of 420, cowl flap then fuel reduction and then air flow is my temp control hierarchy? Kinda nervous, this video really helped simplify as by definition, i have not been flying much recently!

goldenrod
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I need my 448kb/s of cocné right now jesse

dizmat.mp
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Bro i thought this would be a breaking bad parody wtf

-deeb-
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Can you help me ? I need to know if there are a documentation regarding the io-470-l bent cylinder connecting rod. Tks in advance.

Max-efpo
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Mike, what temperature limit recommendations for Superior steel/nitride cylinders during break in after a major overhaul? Thanks.

imonchakraborty
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Actually something interesting on YouTube... Well done, thank you, Lol I'm sat here just agreeing with mmm Subscribe button pressed..

paulraymond
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Regarding minimizing ground run-time: Is it okay if you can perform the ground run at high power?

TonyGizer
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I have a overhauled IO 540 that was ran in a test cell. It’s for a velocity XL RG that I have been building. The plane is ready to start the testing phase of low speed taxiing, high speed taxiing etc. What advice do you have in regards to oil to run in the engine and do you think the time on test cell sufficiently broke in the cylinders? If not, how do I do it when I can’t run the engine hard during the taxi phases of testing?

micjbaron
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Jesse I have no money for fucking bills and steam sales

zachdavekuhn
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So how would you recommend a mechanic leak check the engine? A quick run at low power? Or short and high? Also want the oil to warm a bit I would think


Also, I know it would be harder to picture certain examples, but has anyone thought of making this a podcast?

TheReadBaron
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Why manufacturers and overhaul shops don’t break in engines, automotive engines don’t require this?

teejayevans