New Gearwrench Tools Help You Take On Any Bolt-extracting Job!

Black oxide coating provides superior corrosion resistance
Tapered side and tip cutting edges for powerful and consistent extraction
High strength steel provides up to 50 times longer life
Extractor, Screw Extractor, Damaged, Rusted, Rounded, Easy Out, Speed Out, Bolt Out, Twist Out, Turbo Socket
Bi-directional design loosens or tightens damaged fasteners
High-visibility laser markings for easy size identification
Hex base design is compatible with hand and power tools
5 sizes of left-hand drill bits included for extraction needs from start to finish
GEARCASE storage case is customizable and stackable to save space

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Disclaimer
Owing to factors beyond the control of How to Automotive/Brian Eslick, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modification of this information, or improper use of this information. How to Automotive/Brian Eslick assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any information contained in this video. How to Automotive/Brian Eslick recommends safe practice when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jacks and jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemical lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Because of factors beyond the control of How to Automotive/Brian Eslick, no information contained in this video shall express or imply warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not How to Automotive/Brian Eslick. #howtoautomotive #GearWrench

[mlieser]

Looks like a great tool. I used to use the Snap On splined shaft type of bolt extractors. This looks like a better idea.

[BobWhite]

The 3 links you have are for the socket type bolt biter. I've never seen the bolt biter that you show in the video.

[JohnNorris]

Brian, I have an off topic question. I have seen a mechanic use rubber cement, the stuff you use in art and crafts to wipe into the groove of a valve cover where the gasket seats, then places the new gasket in the groove and allowed to dry a little to be firm enough to hold the gasket in place so when flipping the cover over and working into place, such as a rear valve cover in a tight area, the gasket will not fall or slip out of place. Is this acceptable? I am going to do my cover gaskets and would like to use this method if it is not going to cause any issues and is safe. Should I not? I am wondering if this could cause any issues with a good seal between the gasket and cover if the rubber cement is not coated on the entire groove, seems if you just do spots it could cause high and low areas and maybe a gap or area with not as much seal as another? Or maybe rubber cement can flake off over time and bits fall off into the engine oil? I have never done it so do not know if it is safe or not.

[amaturetechnician]

How do you warranty these if there is one?

[scuba]

hmmm are they coping rbrt mac tools? hey brian i had watched your vid on the 1.8 t beetle timing belt and did one today agggh it was a pain!