etrailer | Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2019 Nissan Rogue

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Hello neighbors, it's Brad here at etrailer. And today, we're taking a look and installing the Curt four-pole trailer wiring harness on a 2019 Nissan Rogue. We're gonna have our four-pole living just kinda tucked over here or you can even put it in your storage compartment, so it's out of sight until you're ready to tow. And then all you'll need to do is drape this over this weather stripping here. Just make sure you don't have it right where the latch is and it's perfectly fine for this to close down on it as it's not gonna damage the wiring. The four-pole is going to be the way that you're going to attach to your trailer to get the light functions to go from your vehicle to the taillights on the trailer, giving you the turn signals as well as your running lights and brake lights, keeping you safe and legal and letting the people behind you know what you're intending to do.

Now, our wiring feeds back into a module that's gonna protect our vehicle from any backfeed and that way, we're not gonna damage our factory electrical. Now, speaking of factory electrical, it's gonna use factory-style plugs, so it's really plug and play. The only thing that you're really gonna have to do that isn't is using a butt connector to tie in your power wire and that's gonna have to route up to your battery where you're gonna put a fuse holder and a ring terminal and just attach it to your terminal. So, it's pretty easy overall. You're gonna be pulling back some panels to plug those in but it shouldn't take you too much longer than about an hour or so.

Routing under the vehicle can't get a little bit tricky but I'm gonna show you how I did everything. That way, we can get your trailer wiring installed. To begin our installation, we're gonna need to open up our rear hatch and we're gonna be gaining access to right behind our taillight here and that way, we can make our connections. And we're gonna need to gain access to this panel. And to get to this panel, we're gonna have to actually remove our scuff panel.

And this is also gonna be the route that we run our wiring over to our passenger's side. So, in order to get this out, you're gonna see right here where the latch is, there's gonna be a plastic piece, we're gonna wanna take this out of the way. And then there's also gonna be plastic push pins. There's gonna be one here. And as you kinda follow your hands over in this indent, there'll be another, So, we'll go ahead and get those taken out.

So, in that little notch, you're just gonna wanna pry out the center. So, I'm using a trim panel tool. If you don't have one of these, you can actually use a flathead screwdriver and it should work just as well. And once you kinda pop that out, a lot of times, you can just get that with your hands. Now, during the whole process, you're gonna wanna have a nice spot to keep your hardware. That way, it makes it easier for reinstallation. Now, to get the scuff panel off, it's pretty easy, but we're gonna wanna lift this up because you have a plastic ledge down here that kinda gets stuck under. So, to pull this out, just take your time here, you're gonna wanna kinda pull up and out. And then once you get one side there, you can kinda work your way down and you can get the other side as well, and then this should be easily removed. So, we'll go ahead and set this aside. We're gonna be pulling this panel out. That way, we can gain access to the wires. And in order to kinda get that to be a little bit easier, we'll take our cargo tray out and then we can set that aside. And we have our cargo hook here. We're gonna want to pop this cap open and that's gonna gain us access to the hardware that attaches it because this becomes a mounting point for our plastic, so just kinda peel back on this. We might have to pull this loop out of the way. And then we can see, with this opened up, that should be a 10-millimeter, so we'll go ahead and get that removed. You can also use a Phillips screwdriver to get this off as well. And you can pull this whole assembly out and keep it together and set this aside. Now, to give myself a little bit more leverage to pop the clips along here, I can take this panel off and that way, we can kinda grab along here to make it a little bit more evenly distributed. Now, we're just gonna kinda work our way here. There's gonna be clips along this way and they're gonna pop as you go, so just kinda it give some outward p

[borndiy]

THANKS! I did purchase my Hitch from you. Still need to purchase this harness. Looks like I will need a mechanic to install the harness. You do have to have suv on a lift. Great video and rear connections seem easy DIY but running wire under body is where I would need that help. Thanks again and hope some day I can finalize a total working hitch with lights! 9/15/2024 *Just ordered from ETrailer the Curt Kit for the lights and Great Price!

[monsaka]

How about routing the wire with the factory wiring loom?. You know, like inside the car.

[monsaka]

Add some no-ox grease to all exposed wires and bare metal and you'll be golden.

[Acecool]

Why not use the dealer option tie-in plug right above that grommet you ran the power outside of the vehicle? All you have to do is put a fuse in the engine-compartment fusebox to give the thick wire power. I just branched off that. Some people have said the curt kit draws power at all times, so it will drain the battery. So I will test that out and if so then put in either a high load switch or a relay attached to a simple switch.

[sewashburn]

This does not seem to be a good permanent solution to run the wire from the inside and drape it over the rear bumper every time you need to use it.