How I unlocked my potential as a climber

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Timestamps:
0:00 Trying hard
0:20 Overview
0:35 Session 0.5, No-hang protocol
2:30 Session #1: Max Projecting
7:20 Session #2: Power
10:20 Session #3: Volume

My gear:
Favorite shoes
Chalk Bucket
Chalk bag

Everything shot on Sony A7SIII with Tamron lenses.

Any support is incredibly welcomed and appreciated. You all make the content happen!

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WIN a 1-on-1 Training Chat with Me & Crimpd+ For LIFE by Logging My NEW Workouts!

One thing I'd like to add to this video and the sessions here, is that many of you will have to figure out for yourselves how good you can manage with the training load that's presented here. When I'm in good shape and in a training grind I usually do three days on, one day off, cycling these three sessions within those three days. That's a fairly high load, so prioritise what you can and find what you can work with consistently! If you don't know what you can manage, the program in the Crimpd app is developed by experts to allow for adequate recovery and a good training block that should suit most V8 (and above) climbers.

This concludes my short training series, and what I think are fundamentals to go from V0 to at least V11. I hope you all enjoyed it!
Remember, making sure you eat enough and also stay consistent will be two pillars you can't go without to reach new levels, but when you add these things to your training you've got a recipe for gains in the making!

EmilAbrahamsson

the intro clips transitioning into you talking very calmingly was absolutely masterful

nap_time_

This is the most relatable content for transitioning from gym strength to climbing hard

niklasjonssonaberg

Excellent! Thank you for your hard work and expertise, Emil. Top tier like always. I've been doing the 2 times a day finger boarding for a month or so and it has truly truly helped a lot. I can recruit so much faster, and it is more consistently in the correct position. Im excited to employ these methods! You always seem to know what i am needing/wanting as far as content and motivation.

ikarosdream

Gonna be trying a few of these! I've been bouldering for 11-12 years now and while I've gotten fairly strong it's been a long time since I have broken through a plateau. I have been stuck for a couple years now but I've been more psyched on training recently. Always a pleasure watching your videos!

kriswhite

The amount of work tou put into this Emil is absolutely appreciated man 🙏

WisdomThroughGod

Im looking forward to the research! Don't forget to use controls like in a RCT design. This design is essential if you want to research effectiveness of a training protocol. You can use "no protocol" as controls but I would be way more interested in seeing a control group that does max hangs 2-3 times per week. Or even better you can have 3 arms and compare: "submax hang protocol", "max hang protocol" and "no protocol."

StefanClimbs

Working your training sessions in the run up to Rocklands 2024 season 😎 Many thanks from South Africa for this great video.

ZaZa-ra

What I took away from this: Screaming gives you a +2 boost in strength temporarily

isolu

These workout videos you're making lately are amazing! I am for sure more into the strength aspect of climbing, as that is what I find most fun/interesting. Not a lot of videos focus on this tho, since it's kinda overlooked as you say, and it's more popular to talk about technique. Nice to see someone who gets in-depth on both.

nyholmenn

The first time I saw you in a climbing video you were wearing that red shirt from the video thumbnail. It's crazy to see how far you (and the other crew) have come on here and boy does time fly.

LankyBastid_

Emil,

Not lying when I say you have some of the best content on YouTube. I always learn something, and it's always a bit different from the traditional training advice we hear on YouTube.

Question: How often do you rest between sessions? Do you have a strict regiment or is it more flexible? Do you only do the 3 sessions per week and rest the other 4 days?

Perry

Your hard work always inspires me a lot!! Thank you. 😊

김소연-kmb

Saw the strongman competition show up on YouTube and then checked out the So funny that you are doing research with Keith Barr! Great guy, great researcher, know him from many American College of Sports Medicine conferences.... He's actually a molecular guy originally but has branched out in so many different directions, cool to see! I believe he's still at UC Davis..

SalimShaikh-ruxw