How To Install A Car Audio Capacitor

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In this video, we used a Install Bay IBCAP1F, a Stinger APV44 Battery, the MTX TC6004 amplifier, and Kicker Power/Ground Wire.

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@Gunnedslingers1 If the gauge doesn't fit then you have two options. You can try ring terminals or just go with the 4 gauge. Just make sure you are protecting yourself from any blown fuses or possible blowouts.

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@marcusher You'll need to charge the capacitor when you first install it. The capacitor should come with a resistor to allow for charging. As far as installation, just remember to have a fuse in-line from your battery to the capacitor and you'll be good to go.

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Why not show how to charge the capacitor and show a full install on the table? Thumbs down.

scottydntno
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@nastyku You wouldn't necessarily need the capacitor in-line since the Kinetik battery will basically be doing the same thing, but at a more efficient rate. If you do decide to go with the cap as well then no harm. You'll want to run 0 gauge from your battery to a battery isolator, and then run that to your Kinetik battery. This will prevent the Kinetik from continuously draining the main battery. I would recommend grounding the cap/battery separate from the amp to avoid noise issues.

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As long as your wire supports it and you are connecting them to the right components in your system.

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@Merhivi There's no need to fuse the ground when installing a car audio capacitor. Just make sure to have a fuse in-line with your 12v power and you'll be protected and good to go!

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Realistically, a video will not show you how a system sounds. Nothing can replicate the potential of a system except the system itself.

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You can connect it to the battery if the battery is close by to the cap and the amp. Most batteries are up front, so running a long ground wire all the way to the front is impractical. If your cap needs a REM wire, it should specify where it goes.

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You can ground them together. However, if you hear increased noise or humming you should ground them separately.

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@ThatFreeThinker Not a dumb question at all. Simply put, a capacitor will hold a charge. This can benefit a car audio system because amplifiers sometimes demand large amounts of power very quickly. If your capacitor is constantly holding a charge closer to your amplifiers, this can help meet up with the demand. Also capacitors discharge quickly, faster than your battery can essentially. As far as batteries, I'll PM you details as there's too much info for the character limit.

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@TheKaufenberg Yes. You'll need to have a power and ground connection to your amplifier for it to properly operate. Brendan demonstrates that you'll need to have the ground from the capacitor on an unpainted metal surface, and the amplifier will require it's own separate ground on a stable unpainted metal surface. You can also use a ground distribution block for this as Brendan mentions in the video.

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The cap isn't "on" or "off". It is simply the voltmeter on the cap that turns on and off. It will do this until the voltage in the cap stabilizes with that in the battery.

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Place the cap as close to the amp as possible between the distribution block and amp.

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@Jocktech An inline fuse provides over-current protection to your devices. Essentially its a fuse that protects your power wire from catching on fire in the case that the wire gets shorted. Any time you connect a power wire to your positive terminal on your batter you are going to want to use an inline fuse.

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Capacitors only have a remote turn on wire if they have special digital displays or functions, at which point you can connect it to the remote wire going into the amplifier.

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@harjitsd That Hifonics amplifier draws a bit more current at 1 Ohm that at 2 Ohm so you concern is understandable. Since your alternator is a little smaller than most it might be strained a bit. The short answer to your question is it will minimally effect your electrical system. It most likely won't be noticeable, but you might want to upgrade your cars alternator if you plan on expanding any further onto your system.

SonicElectronix
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Make sure your amplifiers remote input wire is connected to the receivers remote amplifier output. Your amplifier is likely staying on because you have connected your remote wire to a 12v+ constant source, when it should be connected to a 12v+ ignition switched source, such as the remote output on the back of an aftermarket receiver.

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@marcusher You don't need to have the amp connected yet. After charging you can unground everything and then connect it. You don't need to remove the in-line fuse or else you won't get power to the capacitor. Just connect the capacitor to the ground and power and put the charging bulb or resistor in-line with the battery line. After charging you can unground and reconnect everything. No problem at all. Let us know if you have any more questions.

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@littlechrist1 You'll need to have the capacitor grounded. If the instructions do not state to ground the capacitor they may be incomplete, or the capacitor may have a specific design that prevents it from being grounded. Check to see if there are multiple posts to connect power and ground to. The capacitors we have worked with have all required to be grounded, as well as charged before functioning.

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@NewfiePaintballa Yes. The video doesn't show the positive wire from the battery clearly. It's also connected to the same post as the other positive.

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